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Turbo Meister

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Posts posted by Turbo Meister

  1. I don't think the 11's are realistic for a 327 without a power adder. My personal experience lists traction as a top factor in successful and consistent drag race times.

    My Z's best et with a naturally aspirated 383 was 11.15 at 123 mph. However, I had a backhalfed car with a Ford 9" and 12" rear tires. Best guess for hp was 450/500 flywheel.

     

    A friend had a Z with a 421 engine. He only ran 13's because he could not hook up at launch.

  2. what kind of motor setup are you guys running and how much power are you putting down and when you have been to the track what kind of times have you put down?

     

    You should be able to run high 11's with your setup if you can hook up at the starting line. Much faster with nitrous, but I never used it so can't give estimation.

     

    When I had my 383 engine, built similar to yours, the Z ran a best of 11.15 at 123 mph naturally aspirated. But I used 12 " wide rear street slicks. Dyno estimate 450 hp at the flywheel.

  3. after carefully looking at the bottom, it looks like there is a lot more metal there than I first noticed. Maybe flex is a non-issue.

     

     

    Davy,

    Although Mckinney removed a good portion of the crossmember the addition of the more robust steel all around has strengthened it compared to the thin stock material. Since I use a motor plate to support the engine the crossmember bears much less weight than when the engine was attached to it. Now only the front suspension and steering linkage are supported by it. I'm still trying to control my wheelies at launch and hope it doesn't result in another oil pan crunchability test. If it does happen.....we will see how well the crossmember handles it.

     

    As you pointed out, I have never used a sway bar. The Z launches better at the strip without one and my street cruising is not that aggressive.

     

    But I do thank you for your concern because sometimes I'm too focused on performance to think of safety.

    Hanns

  4. The Z's crossmember needed to be modified to allow the new low-profile circle track oil pan to be used. The pan holds 7 quarts and measures only 7" in depth. It is a nice Summit Racing pan with numerous baffles priced under $100.

     

    Mckinney Motorsports trimmed a good portion off the crossmember, boxed it, and welded on a 1/4" skidplate on the bottom for extra reinforcement. For the first time I will now be able to remove the oil pan, when necessary, without having to undo motormounts and jack up the engine for clearance.

     

     

    med_gallery_639_5_17527.jpg

  5. Stony,

    The fender flares look good, but I thought you wanted to keep them stock if large radials like 325x50x15 would fit. My Z's fenders are stock and the radials fit with plenty of clearance. So maybe you are planning on even bigger Tires!!!

  6. Nice ride, Hanns! Too bad you couldn't have held it just a bit longer--looks like fun in a I-just-soiled-my-underwear kind of way :D:2thumbs:

     

     

    Davy

     

    I wasn't going to lift, this time. But the carb probably flooded the engine while the nose was up in the air and immediately killed the engine. There was nothing I could do to keep it from dropping. It was actually kind of exciting to see the track disappear before my eyes!!!!

  7. Hanns, it's probably just the video, but the hoses look smaller than what would be standard for radiator hoses? is that correct? I am wondering what the size of the hose is that runs under the fender/wheel well. My real question is, "If the hoses are smaller than normal, does the system still cool effectively on the street with that much horsepower?" I'm also wondering what the hottest day is that you have had the car in traffic. I like the clean look of how you did it by the way.

     

    Davy

     

    Davy,

    There are (2) 12 An braided hoses coming out of the intake manifold and transporting coolant to the radiator. On an 80 degree sunny day it does not exceed 190 while on the street or racing. However, I give most of the credit to the Taurus fan. In a few weeks I will do more racing and cruising and it should be much hotter then. We will see if the system passes the test.

     

    Yes, I really like the way it looks and am hoping it works out.

  8. What radiator are you using and how difficult was mounting it up there? I was planning on installing the radiator from JTR using their mounting brackets, but your setup looks much cleaner.

     

    The normal JTR radiator installation for Chevy engines in a Z leaves plenty of room in the engine compartment. But I also have turbos in front of my engine and that's why I made this change.

     

     

    I'm using a standard Arizona Z Car radiator for v8 Z's. However, this is a lot more work than what you may want to do. If you duplicate my system, you must seal off the standard upper inlet, lower the outlet to pass under the radiator support, weld on inlets for the radiator, remove the thermostat housing from the intake manifold, weld on bungs for the intake manifold coolant outlets,run coolant lines, and include a radiator fill location.

     

    The good thing with this system is that the radiator filler is higher than the radiator.

  9. Went to Irwindale dragstrip for Thursday night TNT and to try out the parachute. My first two runs were mediocre because my line lock was not working and my burnouts were insufficient to properly heat the tires. I only ran 116 mph in the 8th mile but I deployed the chute, anyway. Maybe because of the low mph or because I stumbled upon the perfect chute mounting position, I felt nothing when the chute deployed. Soon I will find out what it feels like to pop the chute at 150 mph.

     

    But first I have to buy a new oil pan....you will see why when you watch this video.

     

    I was surprised how well the burnout was for the third run. And the tires hooked. The oil pan isn't leaking , but only a little crumpled.

     

     

  10.  

    This video shows the final product after I moved the radiator in front of the radiator support. Those of you who are familiar with the appearance of my Z's engine bay, know there was a hose that ran from the thermostat housing to the radiator. Unfortunately, it was located above and between the intakes of my turbos. So I hacked off the thermostat housing from my manifold and had a couple of 12 AN bungs welded to the cylinder heads' water outlets. Then the attached lines were routed to the rear and side of the engine bay, under the fender and back into the relocated radiator. This provides more room for the turbos to breathe......

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