yetterben

Gonna throw the spark out of the equation and go back to my locked normal dizzy. Lock it at 18 and use the vacuum advance to handle cruise. When boost comes on it should force vacuum advanced closed....in theory. Wanna clarify Tony?

Its very easy for people to sometimes forgot and Tony is aware when you live in the sticks well......options are low. Problem is greed mostly. Sometimes i wish i had another z so i could romp the piss out of it and not beat the turbo car so much.

I would not say back of my hand. I had lots of help from Tony. I love being turbo. But its not easy over here to get a rider to tune or its not easy to drive or tow the car 4 hours round trip to a dyno. This is boon fawk egypt with not many options unless i have a sbc with a 1150 toilet bowel on my intake.

Thinking real hard about dumping the whole thing and going back to triples. Takers.....

What surface prep should be taken? Trying the msa gasket now. COpper spray or anything special for this one.

What octane gas is everybody using? 91 octane no e85 blend same station every time on the highway. When was the last calibration of the torque wrench used? I have two clicker and one wand. Verified trq with all three. Was there a re torque after initial start? No re torque gasket said not needed as well as no sealing agents needed. What is the surface finish of the head and block (too smooth machining, and you can slip easier than properly finished pieces...) Head/Block was gently scrapped removing gasket material scuffed with green scotch brite and then swirled lightly with 800 grit emery. Are the MSQ files IDENTICAL including all REQ FUEL / Injector Sizing / Fuel Pressure? If not/why not? I am only using his ve and spark map. Both have been tamed down. Timing lowered all over the map under boost. Fuel req was 9.0 i raised to 9.1 and have sat with someone and changed a few cells as needed. Pretty spot on other than that. 440cc injectors. Fuel pressure 40psi static. rrfpr 1:1. Holley red for a lift pump to surge tank. Dual walbro 255 up front supplying the go juice. This car sees track like abuse on the street. I spend 70 percent of my driving at wot. Remember i live in the sticks in the middle of 6 valleys. Twists turns its like the hills of western PA here. Most of the roads i drive on are not on any map and are 1 car wide. Tuning for every day driving is perfect starts every time now, cruises excellent etc etc This car needs to be treated as a track car i guess as that's the kind of abuse i bestow upon it.

again afr's where the 11's Confirmed chain was not off.

Going to remove the header wrap as well. Reason being outside of the headers and turbo and down pipe glowing like they just came out of a forge, the car ran good with timing at 18-20degrees. Gonna try to pull some fuel after peak torque first though per Tony's statement. I believe the wrap is just holding in the excess heat after hard runs. Its made to trap in heat i just dont like glowing **** under my hood. When it would glow it would stay fire red for 5-10 minutes after car shut down. I never had this timing, detonation, glowing issue with the carbs. That sucker ran pig rich and made but loads of power when conditions where right. Even before methanol. I dont wanna come near walking the line with timing i would rather make more power with boost than more power walking the line with timing. Basically if i have to make the same power at 15psi as i could at 10 with advanced timing etc..

If some of you guys dont visit classiczcars.com Kats is a member over there who strictly deals with nut and bolt resto's. He has a few 432's as well,and has alot of neato odd ball stuff. Here is some of his latest videos. His website. http://www.geocities.jp/datsunz903/ Best to look at the channel he has lots of R&D testing videos of the chassis and suspension. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PE_MwTrGhAY http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7hueRBoEqA http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAoXzy8Prhk&feature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sfR3Zj2WTU&feature=channel

Waiting and hoping some one can chime in here with some top notch cam degree info. Looking to find out what running retarded or advanced might do to the engine in terms of egts and behavior. I know retarding the cam will bring in more power up top and rob a little from down low. But will this Cause major issues on a boosted engine. I am wondering if it being retarded caused detonation issues.

Here is a picture. the motor is a little past tdc here. I had that bright link on the number 1 spot. i turned the motor over a bunch of times like 4-6 times. This is the only spot where that link came close to number 1. i spun it around enough times to see this link pass this number twice. Buy my thinking that link should be on the number 1 spot all the way till the chain goes back down. It either jumped or i screwed the pooch the second time trying to fix it. But it was dead on before the groove was a little past the notch on the cam tower etc. I am hoping this was my issue. Hell when the motor was on the stand and it was a half notch off i buzzed Tony he said move the cam yah tard to get my half link back. So i did spun it over and things where fine. Until i see this.

Okay another point of interest here. when i first set up the timing i was off buy half a link. I was to brain dead to figure out to just move the cam a little to get my half link back. So i took the front cover off and re did the whole timing event. Rotated the engine 2-3 times buy hand to make sure. So when i took it off today i turned the engine a bunch of times and the only time the bright link was near the number 1 spot on cam sprocket it was clockwise one link. DAve mentioned this could bring the compression ration up. But how the fawk did i jump a link.

After popping off the head damage is as follows. 5 blown i was aware of that. On 2 the paper is blown but not the fire ring. 1 is looking kinda oblong not much but a little. Scratching my head a little over this. I know it detonated but why. timing was pretty conservative and if i take any more out turbo and mani glow. Fuel was fine low 11's the whole way always has been. I can tell i am getting a lot older i guess i did not even swear when it happened nor am i pissed or upset that i had to take it apart. Something about the Z makes it okay....does that make sense. Bonding with the akuma. Anyway in other news i installed a rear set of mud flaps from Altec in Ham lake Minnesota. I guess these can be had via msa but why bother they mark **** up crazy high. I like them they look good and will save my paint from stones. I thought about putting stone guard film on the car but my life in a detailing shop for 3 years tells me no way. Rock film always removes paint on removal and that's just not cool. Hell when i first started at ford before i was a tech i used to install stone film all over new cars, hoods fenders etc.....bad stuff. Still looking for a reasonable priced set of fender mirrors. I really wanna paint all the door chrome over to black like oddmanouts ride. Once the head is back on i will hook up my meth again and start to run with that. When i had the carbs i was able to run 87 octane and run a full N/A advance curve.

Well at 12psi my head gasket let go. it was fine at 10 all day turned it up to 12 and made it half way threw 3rd and it let go on cyl 5. Timing was 23 at 12psi. So i am left with what decent HG to get. I was using the ishino. Is the msa gasket good?

99 silverado baby 278,xxx and still ticking on the original 5.3 replaced the trans at 135,xxx but that's it. Solid ride. Like a rock Baby.

Check you brake fluid. I was sucking it in awhile back burning white, stunk like trash too.

I stick to my urtosukidoji and madea films. Akira and all the normal ones. If yah ask me alot of anime has gone down hill. Artwork is getting worse and cg mixed in yucky. I just watched a 12 part Samurai one not long ago called Shigurui very good. Everything i watch is not for the faint of heart and usually from anime 18. Most of my anime is on LD. Back before Mosiac

uh thats bad there dude pretty sure you are cutting off circulation to 5 and 6 now........I can tell you for a fact if you loop them it wont over heat as thats how mine is and i see 180 at the head.

I passed on that motor as its just as local to me as you.

um. ...... i am a tard q16 is empty. Order placed. DOH!

We wont debate the Yawn factor but a 95 Accord is still worth far more than a 95 grand am or pretty much everything else in its class. Glad you are enjoying the Bimmer.

Honda has the highest re-sale in the business pretty much.

I turned the pots ccw a few turns and now i have a rpm signal. No spark yet though. Are the jumpers supposed to be on inverted or normal.

Well i am trying to use my N/A 81 dizzy in a vr setup. I have hooked the red wire up to the inner line on the ign line for ms. I have hooked the green wire up to the actual shielding part of that cable. I get no rpm signal. I have tried the green right to a ground same thing. I have set d15 to irq trigger and i have switched the jumper from 1-2 to 3-4 for vr timing on my ms1 ver 3.57 board. Kinda stumped why i cant get a signal at all. Brown wire from ms to - on coil. Kinda stumped. I also have jp1 set to 1-2 for vr. When i have j1 not jp1 j1 set to 5-6 my spark led is on d15. thats good. now when i touch either the green or red wired buy hand the injectors click and i get a signal. So why cant i get a signal buy cranking the car? yes dizzy is turning.

Well i took the red wire from dizzy to ign in on ms and the green to ground, brown from ms to - on coil. flipped jumper from 1-2 to 2-3 for vr. set d15 to irq trigger. Got nothing on the rpm signal. Giving up for the night.