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Posts posted by MTenneZ
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I too will be curious to know how it turns out since I have that same things. I got my LC-1 last week and it is a nice piece, with most everything you need in the box. One question, which version of MSnS-extra are you guys running?
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Who needs a dog when you could walk your crank. lol
Well that wasn't exactly the answer I was looking for...but I like it.
Turns out that it was a factory Mitsu piece. Suffice it to say I will not be using a second set.
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This came out of a 97 Eclipse GSX with a minor case of crankwalk. Anywho, that symbol is all I have to go on, I would assume that it is OEM but the oil holes DON'T line up. And so far neither do the aftermarket ones I have found. I have the dealership ordering a new thrust bearing so we can compare. But if that does not work then...
Anyone recognize that symbol?
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In the hardware kit there will be 2 new end caps that fit into the CV housing on the inboard side (differential side). They have a extension in the center which will keep the axle shaft from sliding back and forth.
I just put mine together last month.
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Anybody know if the toys are worth anything these days, cause I still have a bunch. And the DVD too, what a classic.
EZ-Z:
Would that be SS3 Goku?
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Huh...Do you suppose that the Unabomber or David Koresh started out like this?
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HybridZ...Gentlemen, we can rebuild it, we have the technology. We have the capability to make dang near a whole new car. This Datsun/Nissan will be that car. Better than it was before. Better. Stronger. Faster.
Yea, so it sounds like the 6 Million Dollar Man.
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This is the one that I use. It heats well without the air movement of the forced style.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=220634-234-HD24B&lpage=none
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I used one of the dual burner units that attaches to the top of a propane tank last winter for the first time. It heated my garage (about 625sq. ft.) quite well. I liked the duals because you could run one or both. If running propane CRACK THE GARAGE DOOR, propane is heavier than air and it has to vent or the fumes WILL make you sick, as I almost found out the hard way. But if you can afford it an electric heater fan forced or radiant would be ideal, just be prepared for the electric bill based on size of unit and amount of use.
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[url=http://www.racetep.com/datsun1.html]http://www.racetep.com/datsun1.html[/url'] Top-end scroll down $110 for the front or rear.
Does anyone have any more info on these? Perhaps I am missing something completely, but I can't tell where the adjustment comes from. I would assume that it is in the mount it self versus the strut tower or a plate. If so that might be a good way to go for a primarily street driven car.
I was thinking about this a bit' date=' and maybe the solution to the rattle is to use the other style spring hat in the rear. The rear doesn't need to pivot, and as you said the monoball is more than capable of handling the load, so in the interest of quieting the rattle you could use the MM or AZC spring hat in the back. It doesn't take the twisting of the front struts, so there should be no real problem there.I still like the GC plate as designed for the front, but using the other spring hat would solve that problem...[/quote']
When you mention the pivoting are you referring to the strut rotating along its axis within the monoball? Also, are you advocating the use of MM or AZC hats for both front and rear with whatever camber plates being used? And if not what style hat gets used in the front?
And last for now, how important is the use of camber plates in the rear if using adjustable control arms? From what I've read they are not that important at all on a predominantly streetcar front or rear. However with the rebuilding of my subframe I will at least use adjustable LCAs.
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It seems the link does not work. It sends you to the convertable page even if you click the "how to install a 5.0 in a Z"
Use the convertible link. Although the pics don't work, atleast not on my computer.
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That could come in handy with the 97 Eclipse GSX I just bought.
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The outside is what I used:
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Ah, I can't wait to get to that part just got to finish the quarters first.
Does that help? I think that is from someone on here.
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Thanks for all the support, as always you guys are a major inspiration. As to some of the guestions:
1. Mig welded (I wish tig)
2. There was a lot of rust in both quarter's nooks and crannies
3. Time wise it's been a project for 2 years this nov. 4th with I don't know
how many hours
4. louisville huh, I would not say it's out of the question but...?
and the previous "repairer" was not scared of the bondo
5. I got that full panel from a guy in Wisconsin who had both sides, a roof
skin and the radiator support. He had the parts on ebay after I bought
mine, I can check to see if he still has the driver side if anyone would like.
I checked with the Nissan dealership about the quarters a while back...yea
$1300.00. Let's just say I paid a whole lot less.
6. Crackhouse = Brent?
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From this:
To this:
And from this mess:
To this test:
I do so love a good challenge, solely for the abuse and possibility of utter defeat. Oh, and to learn a new skill or thirty.
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If you plan to doing any cutting on this table you may want to consider a portion of it that consist of about 1" angle iron with the edge pointing up like "/ / / /" so that slag can fall through.
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A DVD showing techniques could be priceless; some things are much more easily learned through observation. Poor applications/results could be shown' date=' with demonstrations on how to avoid them. Just watching an expert is a beautiful thing... It looks so easy... but unless one understands all the pitfalls the expert is avoiding, beauty will remain his and not mine. [/quote']
I bought the soft back "Pro Paint and Body" from HPBooks and it’s not too bad. I bought a few welding books too in hopes that they would help…so far so good. Also I bought the Paintucation videos set (DVDs) from Eastwood which include: “Metal Prep and Rust Repairâ€, Paint Your own Carâ€, and “Color Sanding and Buffingâ€. While they are not the most cost effective purchase they provide a quite a good bit of info that is easy to follow (well the first 2 do I have yet to watch the last). And if you are planning to compile your knowledge I would love a chunck of it. I've read many of your posts and would purchase something that contained all your knowledge in one easy to access source.
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And you did that HOW fast? Since May, of this year? Simply Amazing!
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What size and type wire did you use and how far did you end up running the wire?
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You could always go to Donny Baker's Discount Gas.
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You were asking about my 94 Katana 600 a while back. And as soon as the last o-ring comes in it will be back up and running strong (finally). I had hoped that it would be this weekend but no, that's too much to ask. Since my web space is gone I will upload a pic into my gallery if you would like to have a look.
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fastzcars,
How does the miata rack feel? I know how it feels on the miata, and if it's anywhere close then that is an excellent conversion. Also could you elaborate some on the process please?
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I would say if you have anything to donate to the Salvation Army, Goodwill, or any other service I would do that now. I took down around 100lbs of clothing to Goodwill. They almost couldn't accept anything for the rest of the day, because they were so full. I bet Red Cross could really use some monatary donations to cover the cost of the food and water they are giving out.
I gave blood last night and the turn out was unreal. We were there for about three hours all in all. But all things considered what is three hours of my time.
Rear Quarter Repairs !pics!
in Body Kits & Paint
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