BAlford
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Posts posted by BAlford
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I would like to install a tunnel ram manifold with twin Holly carbs an my car. At one time the car had a blower which left a hole in the hood. I made a scoop to fit just to caver the hole until I decided what I wanted to do with the engine. I do not think that I would like the blower but would like the look of something sticking up out of the hole. Speed or horsepower are not necessarly my goal. Pictures:
http://waskomtexas.com/zcar/280zx_before.html
I would like to find a used setup.
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You have let the liberals take over Calafornia. Sure we still use thumb screws in TEXAS.
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I need two of the thumb screws that hold the the sun screen in the T_Tops. Does anyone know where I can get them?
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OK, the air works. The fan on the condensor would not cmoe on so I have got to check it out.
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I was told by a mechanic that the standard check is to ground the wire to the sending unit to check the sending unit. There are two wires one to the idiot light and one that goes to the needle. From looking at the manual it seems that the wire to the needle is the "YG". Also the manual shows that the sending unit is the ground through a reostate.
When the plug is off of the sending unit it remains above 90. It would only do that if there was a dead short, but it would seem that it would return to "0" when the battery is disconected. Since it stays above 90 that seems to indacate that the gage is stuck.
If I remember right you have to remove the dash to get the gage out to replace the gage. Am I right?
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Something went wrong with the oil sending unit, the gage or the wiring. The gage is stuck to the right of the 90 lb mark. The idiot light still works and I have drove the car a couple of hundred miles since the gage quit working so I know I have pressure. I know, not a good way to find out if you have oil pressure. However, if I burnt the engine I could justify a new engine to my wife. I am sure none of the rest of you have to explain car expenses to your wives.
Does the gage normally rest, when the key is in the off position, in the "0" or above the the 90 lb mark. I can not remember it's been broke for some time?
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We got all of the electrical working for the A/C. The next step is the charge the system.
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I took the car to an a/c shop a couple of days ago and he said that I would have to have a fan blowing on the condensor. I am in the process of getting it working.
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We have a 1982 280ZX with a Chev 350 Eng. The A/C is all connected up except for the hoses that connect the Datsun components to the Chev compressor, we are having them made. As you can see in the picture:
http://waskomtexas.com/zcar/re_car/engine.html
We have another fan that can mount in fromt of the condensor to blow air on the condensor when the compressor is on. We have solved our engine cooling using the method below:
http://waskomtexas.com/zcar/re_car/engine_cooling.html
The question that we have is, if we add the fan in front of the condensor will it restrict the air flow enough to cause us to have a heating problem?
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I have a digital dash from a 1983 280ZX in my 1982. I also would like to get the reading up above 85 MPH. You can switch to KLM and it reads 140 KLM but you have to switch each time you start the car. I would think that you caould gear the spedo cable to match the KLM, but you would still have to switch to KLM each time you strat the car.
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Last week I drove my 1982 280ZX and notice that the Oil Pressure Gage is stuck as far as it can go to the right side of the gage. I posted this the next day and some one said that the wire had probably came off and grounded. I checked it out yesterday and it had came off. I am using the original sending Z sending unit with the rubber boot around the plug that is at the end of the wire. The plug was still inside the boot so it could not have grounded.
I reattached the plug to the sending unit and the gage is still pegged out. Any suggestions?
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I have a 1982 280ZX With a Turbo 400. When I got the car it had a 3.54 rearend. When I was turning 3000 RPM I was doing 60 MPH. I installed a 3.36 rearend and gained about 4 MPH. A r700 would give you another gear and better highway speed and gas mileage. I was unhappy with the low gear untl after I has drove the car for a while. I like the feeling of going down the highway, tromping the foot feed and geing pushed back into the seat.
Nuts to the gas mileage, for me, I only drive my car in fair weather and when I feel like it anyway. I do wish it was a standard trans, I like to shift gears.
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Russ did he offer to trade?
5 speed or 6 Speed
You know it might have been 6 speed. But as I remember it had the gear patern on the top of the shifter and I think it was 6 positions and one was reverse.
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We drove my 1982 280zx today and the oil gage went all the way to the right and seems to be stuck. The light still works. I haven't done any checking as to the problem, the weather is about freezing so I will check it when the weather is warmer. Any ideas?
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My grandson and I dropped by and drove a 350z in Longview, Texas today. It had a 5 spd trans, do they have an optional auto trans? It was nice and responsive. My first impression is that it looked short. It is stif riding, but thats OK, it's a sportscar. I didn't like the stiffner in the back. Seems like they could have engineered that better. The engine compartment is full. Is some people thinking of putting a Chev 350, it'll be tight. The one I drove was priced at $31,000.00. They had another for $34,000.00 and it did not have the electronic device in the dash which the samesman said cost about $1,900.00. The salesman went with me and then let me take my grandsom, 14 yrs. for a ride. He was impressed.
In my opinion the 240z is the best looking of the Z family. I prefer the 280ZX to drive because it is more comfortable. I have drived a 300z also but will still take the 280zx.
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You may be right, I'm just the artist not the engineer. Just thought I would toss it out for comment.
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You are right, this client is part of the oil industry and makes dimamond drill bits. He got this idea for oil rig wenches. He also thought it was useable in the auto industry. Will it work, I don't know, but you kiss enough frogs and sometime you will get a princess.
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Here is an idea that one of my clients has for adding horsepower to your car and breaking power. I am a commercial artist and was asked to illustrate this product. What do you think?
http://www.studioa.com/tech_ill/5863rotor
This is a bolt on to replace your break rotors. You just bolt it on and spin the wheels.
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When I bought my car, a 1082, it had been on shown in "Thunder on Wheels" for several years. They had changed the sound system several times, removed the dash, heat/air system and most of the normal electrical components from the car. I had to completely re-wire the car. I bought a complete wiring harnes from a 1083 and all of the components from someone on the internet, removed ALL of the old wiring and installed the "new" wiring. Every thing "plugged and played" except the voice modual. A hard job even with a complete factory wiring manual.
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I did contribute to a solution to the problem a way back in this thread.
http://www.waskomtexas.com/zcar/re_car/engine_cooling.html
It may be too simple but it worked !
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I am having trouble beliving PVC pipe. PVC pipe? I thought this was a "Z" we were talking about, not a tolet you were plumbing. You can buy hose with a spring already in it. It is Wenter what is it going to do this Summer?
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Nion, when you get messing around fix the thing and then you can fix something else.
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My car has a Blaupunkt radio/CD player that runs through a Coustic crossover, 2 250 watt Rockford amps driving 4 15" woofers, 1 200 watt Rockford amp driving the tweeters and mid-range speakers. It has 1 150 watt Rockford amp driving two shakers bolted to the bottom of the custom Recaro seats.
I am 63 and do go "BOOMING" down the street.
Need help keeping cool...
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Hay, this rabbit is up again. I had the same problem and fixed it. I had no problem last summer after I fixed the problem.
I have my A/C working this year. We have not got into the real hot weather yet in Texas this year. I have ran the A/C this year with the outside tempature at about 90 degrees. The engine has never got above 190 degrees so far this year.
You can fix the heating problem this way, but you may wish to fix it with some harder or more expensive way. If you are interested let me know.
http://waskomtexas.com/zcar/re_car/engine_cooling.html