BAlford
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Posts posted by BAlford
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We do not know if it was "set up for a supercharger" or if the supercharger was just bolted on for looks, since all it had to do was look pretty for car shows.
If we change the transmission what would you reccommend. I wouldn' mind going to a standard tramission. However cost might be a problem.
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We have not ran a compression test yet. We have only driven it 500 or so miles since we got it running, that will be my next step. Would any one have a blower that they would part with, but how about running my alt and A/C comp? Would putting a blower back on the car improve the gase milage?
We have another 1982 280ZX parts car with a standard transmission. What would the rear end ratio be?
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We have not ran a compression test yet. We have only driven it 500 or so miles since we got it running, that will be my next step. Would any one have a blower that they would part with, but how about running my alt and A/C comp? Would putting a blower back on the car improve the gase milage?
We have another 1982 280ZX parts car. What would the rear end ratio be?
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We have not ran a compression test yet. We have only driven it 500 or so miles since we got it running, that will be my next step. Would any one have a blower that they would part with, but how about running my alt and A/C comp? Would putting a blower back on the car improve the gase milage?
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We have a 1982 280ZX with a stock 350, a turbo 400 and the stock 280ZX rear end. The car sold new with a automatic transmission and was a turbo. I do not know the rearend ratio. The car will hardly spin the tires. At 3000 RPM we are doing 60 MPH. You can see the specs and pictures of the car as we bought it a year ago at:
http://www.waskomtexas.com/zcar/
The blower was removed before we bought the car and a quadra jet carb installed. We have spent a year getting the car back on the road. We have spent that time rewiring, putting the original dash back in the car, and upgrading the sound system and reinstalling all of the other components that were removed to make a show car out of it.
We plan to drive the car in our local area, no long trips, say 50 miles. We want it to be impressive with the hood up and at a stop light. We have no plans to drive it 150 miles an hour. We would like to get 12 or 15 MPG on gas. The car is an eye catcher but the motor is sick. We are ready to rework the drive train. We have a spare Chev 350 engine that we plan to rework while driving the car with the existing engine. We plan to use the same exaust system and transmission. We are thinking about a Holly kit, cam, heads, intake and about a Holly 650 double pumper. We can spend someplace around $2500.00.
Any suggestions?
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I have a 1992 280ZX with a stack Chev 350 with a Turbo 400 transmission. I was at the salvage today and saw a LT1 with a 700R4 transmission. They wanted $1200.00 for the complete engine, trans, computers and wiring harnes. The engine had 101,000 miles. They said that the engine should fit under my hood and that the 700R4 would slip right in and replace my Turbo 400 transmission. If this would work I could probably find the same setup with less miles or I could rebuild the LT1.
We were planning to rebuild the engine that is in the car and add a Holly Kit, heads, cam, manifolds, etc. What do you think? Should I consider this?
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I have a 280ZX with digital tach and a Chev 350. We have installed an after market Tach temportaly. The Z tach shows more RPM that the engine is actually turning as we knew it would.
Has anyone used the Dakota Digital SGI-8.
This is what their ad says. "The new SGI-8 Tach Signal Interface unit is capable of recallibrating most tachometer signal to make them work with tachometers originally designed for a different number of cylinders."
http://www.dakotadigital.com/Detail.cfm?Category=01&PartNumber=SGI-8
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We have proceded with the Heater cores, but have not installed them. Someone suggested that some of the air may be getting past the raditor. That may be corect. There is a space between the hood and the top of the raditor. I will check it out.
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We have removed the condenser and fromt fan. We added some liquid to the collant , no improvment.We are going to add a heater core under each front fender using water from the heater hoses.
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We have a 1982 280ZX with a Chev 350. The engine is basicly stock. It is running about 230 degrees on the hiway at 60 mph. We have two electric fans that come on at 200 degrees. One is mounted on the condenser blowing into the cond and raditor. The other is mounted on the back of the raditor. The front one blows back and the one behind the raditor sucks air. We have a 160 degree thermostate in the car.
The raditor core is about 24 inches wide, it fills all of the area where the raditor sits. It is either a 3 or 4 core. We do not know what it came out of, we bought the car with the raditor installed, it's mot the original.
You can see the car at:
http://www.Waskomtexas.com/zcar
Any Ideas?
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We got everything back in the car and drove it about 150 miles. The tach
shows about 3000 rpm when the after market tach shows 2000 rpm. The temp
gage is still off also. We bought two, I think they are called
"potemeometers" or they call them "pots". They adjust from "0" to "50"
ohems. We have not tried them yet.
I have studied the wiring digrams also. The wire that goes from the tach is
light green with a white tracer, I think that it goes to the resistor,
changes to blue and goes to the dist. This will not matter if the "pot"
works.
We hope that the "pot" will work on the temp gage also.
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Have not had time to work on installing the new digital dash cluster yet. The old one is out and we plan to go inside the dash and cut all of the wires going to the cluster and add about 18" of wire to each. We will solder each connection and put srink wrap on each connection.
The reason we are doing this is so we can try to adjust the pots on the back of the cluster. The tempature gage is registering too hot, we hav an after market gage hooked up also. We also want to try to adjust the tach. We have not hooked it up yet.
Anyone have any suggestions please post here or e-mail us at: waskomtexas@waskomtexas.com
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Update, we pulled out the digital cluster and disassembled it. There is a slotted disk on the end of the speedo cable inside the cluster. It seems to work the same way a computer mouse works. Some type light emmitter, that is mounted in a "U" shapped plastic mount, light through the slots of the disk as they spin to a device that reads how fast the disk is turning. The disk is rubbing on one side of the plastic. There is no way of telling how long it has been rubbing.
I see no way that the speedo quit because the cable was sticking, coming loose and spinning too fast to catch up. Nor can I see how the sticking cable could have caused the rubbing.
We do have another cluster and will install it this week.
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I along with a vew other brave (or demented) individuals ar installing digital dashes in our cars. Please post any problems or solutions here.
I have a 1982 280ZX with a 1983 wiring harness including the digital dash. According to the manuals that I have there is a resistor between the tach head and the distributor.
If so where is the resistor located and will I have to change the resistor. The JTR manual says that I will need a 15K ohm resistor form radio shack. Will that resistor be the correct one for the digital tach? Do I just replace the original resistor with the 15K ohm and where is the original resistor located in the car?
I messed up something in the speedometer. Don't do this, I connected a stock GM speedo cable to the short cable in the dash of my Zcar. It connected great. However, the plastic sleave inside the end of the short Zcar cable was too long and put a bind in the cables. When we first drove the car the mph bounced around by about 15 mph. After about two miles the speedo read "0". I have not pulled out the meter cluster to see what broke yet.
I have bought a digital dash from someone in Califorina and also bought another on Ebay.
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Where can I get insurance for my car. I have libility, but I would like to get coverage for fire, theft and damage to my car.
Tese are pictures of it when I bought the car. We haven't taken new pictures of the car yet.
http://www.waskomtexas.com/zcar
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Another question is will they pay a claim? Many insurance companies will take your money but will not pay.
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I called the number that you suggest and was told that my car is too new. The cars have to be 25 years old.
Any other suggestions?
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Where can I get insurance for my car. I have libility, but I would like to get coverage for fire, theft and damage to my car.
Tese are pictures of it when I bought the car. We haven't taken new pictures of the car yet.
http://www.waskomtexas.com/zcar
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I need a digital dash for a 1983 280ZX. I might be interested even if it does not work.
I messed up something in the speedometer. Don't do this, I connected a stock GM speedo cable to the short cable in the dash of my Zcar. It connected great. However, the plastic sleave inside the end of the short Zcar cable was too long and put a bind in the cables. When we first drove the car the mph bounced around by about 15 mph. After about two miles the speedo read "0". I have not pulled out the meter cluster to see what broke yet.
I am going out of town for about a week and will pull it out then to see what is wrong. If anyone knows how I can fix the speedo let me know.
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I need a digital dash for a 1983 280ZX. I might be interested even if it does not work.
I messed up something in the speedometer. Don't do this, I connected a stock GM speedo cable to the short cable in the dash of my Zcar. It connected great. However, the plastic sleave inside the end of the short Zcar cable was too long and put a bind in the cables. When we first drove the car the mph bounced around by about 15 mph. After about two miles the speedo read "0". I have not pulled out the meter cluster to see what broke yet.
I am going out of town for about a week and will pull it out then to see what is wrong. If anyone knows how I can fix the speedo let me know.
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Nice cars. Here is the car we are working on. This is pictures as it was when I bought the car. We have rewired the complete car, installed the original dash and much more. The exterior is the same, except we have added a scoop the the hood where the blower used to set.
We will have new pictures soon. We ahve the car running again and plan to have it inspected Monday.
http://www.waskomtexas.com/zcar
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Nice cars. Here is the car we are working on. This is pictures as it was when I bought the car. We have rewired the complete car, installed the original dash and much more. The exterior is the same, except we have added a scoop the the hood where the blower used to set.
We will have new pictures soon. We ahve the car running again and plan to have it inspected Monday.
350 not good enough
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Would like some more input here. We will probably discard the engine that is in the car now. The reason is that we can contimue to drive the car while we build another and then just swap. For this reason we can do what ever we would like with the new engine.
I would like to keep the cost around $2500.00, for no real reason except it just seems silly to keep dumping money into the car.
We would be interested in good used engine parts, such as heads, blower or carb, or a manifold. If we could find matching parts. We will still rebuild the block with new parts. We are interested in your ideas on the engine parts that we need.