280zrice

i'm looking for a 75 to 78. 280z , last was stolen, i have a snap-on tool box krl1001b with full side box (krl 1011a , with stainless steel tops( never used ) cost me $8800 new,always waxed and covered, trade for 280z in decent shape, or cash 3500 , WHAT HAVE YOU GOT!! in san diego, california. pics on request

i'm trying to locate a motor 4.2l twin turbo straight 6 designated for austrailian ford trucks/ to drop into my 77 anyone try this yet???/sorry posted in wrong section

ther are a couple of ways to approch this failed smog/ what kind of test is in vegas??? a two speed / idle test, or a dyno test at 15 & 25 mph,/ never the less , does it have a converter or no?, fuel injected or carb?? / these basic questions need to be presented inorder for proper diagnosis, scan your test and put it in your next post,

do yourself a favor, go to your local wrecking yard and locate the volvo 740 wagons, u will find that the front door drivers and passenger side are one piece and 3 times as thick as any remanufactured types , the after markets are very good but i wanted my doors not to leak, remove the rubber channeling and start in the 90* degree corner and insert the rubber into the metal channel, at the bottom of the door channel cut the remaining off and tuck , just a thought

what did it fail?? hc,co,nox,????

helo, i am using the 240sx throttle cable on the inside of the intake along with the spacer and and the 60mm tb, , welded the arm of the 240sx pedal to the to the 280z one , ( my first prototype) fed the cable through the linkage port in the firewall and used the cable mount for the cable end at the tb side attached to a mounting hole in the inake, positioned to the correct distance, on the 240sx tb itself i used the cruise control , half moon cable throttle piece and shortened the shaft to clear the intake , on the potientiometer side, i redrilled the 280z potientiometer to accept the new angle of the mounting screws. my first attempt and it works great, no more linkage i want to adapt it to the origanal tb , to use on the street model to avoid the decel exaust , i also need input on other ideas on clean low budget custom tricks

man , just got back from the wrecking yard and had a little time to spend there and low and behold , i bought some door rubber and moulding from a 90 volvo gle wagon and it fits like a glove , it is large than the stock and is one complete piece. i started in the corner right angle and grooved it all the way around brought it to the bottom center and snipped it to fit stuck a 5/16 vaccum line in the tube and its a pretty good fit , cost of 7.50 for both sides went through the car wash and i am bonr dry , i hope this post helps some one, also 240sx hatch rubber works for the hatch also , i also cut this one at the bottom because it is one piece . im sure there are others , but after spending a couple hours at the yard , i decided this is for me,

SOUNDS LIKE A BROKEN GEAR OR TOOTH IN THE REAR END. , AT LOW MPH OR FROM STANDING , JUST ROLL YOUR VEHICLE IN 4TH OR LIFT THE REAR AND SPIN THE WHEELS YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO HEAR THE CLUNKING NOISE

I AM LOOKING TO LOWER MY 77,280Z , NOT TO RADICAL I HAVE STANDARD KYB STRUTS ,STRUT BARS FOR REINFORCEMENT, I HAVE HEARD THAT THE 240Z STRUT TOWER INSULATORS ARE SHORTER THAN THE 280Z, IF THIS IS TRUE, WILL THEY FIT ON MY 280 AND LOWER IT ABOUT AN INCH OR SO WITHOUT ANY MAJOR MODIFICATONS OR OTHER PARTS. THANKS, 280ZRICE

nice, you can get the same results and use from your own pda or laptop. the o2 siganal is a generated 0 to 1 volt system unless otherwise specified , the airflow meter is a voltage reading on another potentiometer, a digital multimeter will give the same results.it looks like a nice tool and i think i need to look further on whats avalible before spending restore money on simple tune equipment ,12 times a second is pretty slow,it would be kinda hard to find a glitch in a afm ramp or tps at that rate of speed . here is another link for a more conclusive look before decision http://www.iatn.net/aes/

is there any exaust out of the tail pipe t??? if iit is very slight pressure put a vaccum guage on the intake and let it idle it should read 15 to 19"of vaccum at idle, it you rev it it should go down and return to 15 to19" of vaccum almost immediately if it stays down at 5 or 10"of vaccum then your exaust is plugged or the converter is clogged, leave the oxygensensor out of the exaust and let it hang connected, and test drive it will be loud but your pep and power should be back it the exaust is clogged or the converter is melted, the oxygen sensor port lest out the restricted exaust

you need this triangle for the engine to fire , spark, fuel and compression you seem to have two as indicated on your post, take a compression reading , your lifters may still be collapsed , its a common problem i have found, we all get excited on the fireup. it will probably run noisy and smoke for a couple minutes and you may think someting is wrong , let things seat under the variable idle and turn it off after about 10 /15 minutes and check oil and coolant levels, let it set and get up to temp and make sure you have a temp gun avalible to keep an eye on the coolant temp, restart and z be gone good luck

when i turn on my lights i hear the fuel pump humm a little different pitch and when the lights are off the car smooths out a little bit. i have been looking at the 65 amp alternator and the age of the harness and decided to have my 65amp rewound to produce 120amps at the local auto electrical shop i deal with ,the winding on the stator are within a hairline of the case and it weighs probably twice as heavy as the origanal stator, also cleaning as many connectors of corrosion and looseness due to age / i hear of other z owners upgrading the alternator to a gm single wire or a 95 maxima, . "inginuity is the mother of invention", why have to fabricate unless you improve on the said item or structure , after reinstalling the upgraded alternator the difference in idle with the lights on or off , and the noise at the fuelpump was gone , doing a current ramp on the pump showed no excessive draw after cleaning corrosion,don"t get me wrong ,i also like the newer style of the maxima alternator case have modified my 77 with a few 240sx items, i think i will etch or engrave the case of the rewound alternator, with some sort of scene of a z