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Posts posted by heavy85
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My guess is:
Mechanical pump that uses engine power to push the oil around, a nice smooth polished surface has less friction and lets the oil flow better and the porting does the same thing as with head porting for the air/fuel mix. This means less power needed to push more oil around, plus more oil pushed around means less chances of having something sieze from under-lubrication. You're home free two ways
I'm not buying it. If that is the theory then it's a waste of money IMHO. Anyone know the flowrate of an LS oil pump?
Thanks
Cameron
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There was a thread a while back on same subject. Definitely two sides of the fence on this issue.
Cameron
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So why do people port and polish the oil pump on these things. Seems to be popular but I cant figure out why?
Cameron
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Thanks for sharing those pics!! It is so helpful to see when the application is virtually IDENTICAL to what I will be needing.
I'm seriously considering 'Round' mufflers [Magnaflow] that will tuck up out of view. I have used oval mufflers on my last three 240Zs, and I want to try to make them 'disappear' a bit more....
I have two round Magnaflows with full dual 2.5" pipes and crossover. It sounds freaking awesome. I am consistently getting comments how good it sounds.
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No souls but Z's do have nice hips
Cameron
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Two thoughts. Soft trans mount and near solid front mounts may put a lot of stress on the front mounts as the rear moves around. Second is did you add a sleeve inside the poly front mounts? If not how are you going to keep the mounting bolts tight since you cant really torque the bolts down?
Cameron
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4-lug and I really haven't given a lot of thought to e-brake vs parking brake but that brings up an interesting thought. I guess I would like a parking brake that has the ability to be used to limp home if I need it. Not necessarily able to quickly stop from high speed but at least something that can be modulated (ie not on/off).
Thanks
Cameron
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Since well my stock brakes suck it's finally time for an upgrade. They are completely rebuilt with hawk pads and good shoes and they just dont have the torque to stop like I want. This is my autocross, drag, roadrace toy that I drive to all events. I dont even own anything that could tow let alone a trailer. I've had to drive home before with only the e-brake before due to a leaking fitting plus I use it when parked so want to keep it. The brakes are by far and away the most lacking aspect of my car and real uninspiring ... especially compared to the LS1
. I figure it'll take at least a grand for very basic upgrade so why not spend the extra $5-600 for something better and I only want to do this once.
I like things light and purpose built so am really leaning towards the wilwood or outlaw w/ two piece rotor front. BUT there are only two rear options I can find with an e-brake. First is the 240sx but that would not match very well the fronts since it's so small. Second is this mustang set-up but I dont know anything about other than a bunch of hype 'stop on a dime' drill slotted bling kind of stuff. I also dont want to have to use a dual master set-up. So any recommendations for a good rear match for the wilwood or outlaw fronts that can still use an e-brake?
PS - anyone know how to get a hold of Mike aka scca that used to sell the outlaw kits as his site contact page is dead and he hasn't posted here in a couple years?
Thanks
Cameron
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Dragging up an old thread but do the 300ZX calipers have e-brake function or did you just choose not to use it? Also, can you please fix the pictures (they show up as X) as I'm interested in seeing this?
Thanks
Cameron
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Haven't been to Casper but driven from Denver to Gillette a couple times - closest to Casper was Douglas - but if it's like the eastern half be prepared for a whole lot of NOTHING. I mean you can see forever and there is nothing ... other than antelope. People seem just about like everywhere else. I didn't really see one extreme or another.
Cameron
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I had a shortened stock aluminum driveshaft behind the LS1 but it blew up (crappy weld) so now I need to buy a new one. Locally there is nothing but the shop that screwed up my original one. Internet shopping only comes up with a lot of hype so I'm looking for some experienced recommendations. After reading a bunch of posts on LS1tech.com I called PST but they didn't even know what a Camaro driveshaft was .... so I called The Driveshaft Shop and they knew everything off the top of their head and even recommended I get Ross's stub shaft which apparently a buddy of his makes. They specialize in imports but I also read a bad review on line. Tried Denny's Driveshaft but they cant adapt to the R200 rear?? Any recommendations?
Thanks
Cameron
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Mike - what do you mean by 'direct bolt-on' and will these fit 15" rims?
Thanks
Cameron
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Stock '02 LS1/T56, gutted 240Z, old crappy street tires. 12.55 @ 118 MPH on third trip down the quarter ever for driver or car.
Cameron
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Is this street or track? If it's relatively bumpy street then maybe softer springs. Some yahoo had 500 lb/in springs when I got mine. It was not compliant enough to run on the street as it tended to just skip over bumps and was hard to drive fast. What rear gear? LSD? Alignment? Ride height? After my V8 swap it was hard to keep on track because the rear stepped out badly during throttle application. I switched from 3.9 to 3.7 rear gear, tweaked the alignment, ADDED the rear bar back in, and got used the modulating throttle which all helped drastically. It's now very drivable. With high power engine the throttle is no longer an on/off switch. Sticky tires also help.
Cameron
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With all the welding that's been done on the yoke I wonder if I can just have it machined off and a new aluminum tube installed instead of a whole new shaft? I'm going to call PST and The Driveshaft Shop tomorrow for quotes on a shaft from someone who hopefully knows what they are doing.
By the way whe factory weld on the other end of the tube is less than half as wide and is MIG.
Cameron
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ding ding ding - we have a winner.
I used the stock Camaro driveshaft and had it shortened to fit. Since the motor is stock LS1 and the car is light (gutted 240Z) and I dont do high rev dragstrip style launches it should have lasted. I finally got a passenger seat installed since my dad and brother visited this weekend. Plan was to let my brother co-drove an autox with me. So took it out to give my brother a spin Saturday afternoon. Got about a block away and punched it. It went wahhhhhhhh tink plunk plunk plunk plunk. Luckily we were only a block away and were going uphill so were able to push it back home. My brother got a one block ride and my dad got nothing. We tried to find a local shop open but no luck. Hoped it was just a half shaft since I have spares but no dice it was the main driveshaft. Broke right next to the half ass weld. As you can see the weld is a MASSIVE tig weld and I think they put in way too much heat. Either way it should not have broken there if built properly and I dont think should have broken at all in this application. So now I'm shopping for a new driveshaft. Needless to say I will not be going back there! The exhaust is tucked up pretty tight in there so it kept the driveshaft from going nuts. Only signs of damage I can find is a small mark on the exhaust tubes. The tunnel, e-brake brakets, etc are all perfect and you cant even see bare metal in there. I'm lucky it happened so close to home since I dont own a truck or trailer. Last time I drove it was to the dragstrip about 2 hours away. I only ran three runs because I got a good ET and thought I would take it easy on her. I'm really glad I didn't run anymore as I'm pretty sure it would have broken at the strip 2 hours away.
Cameron
EDIT - it really sucks you cant rely on other people. This is literally the only part I farmed out and see where that got me. I wonder how those who dont work on their own cars get by. No I'm not bitter at all!!!
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Mine is mounted where the factory battery used to mount. I've run it over this year in a variety of racing and always drive to the track on hots days, in the rain, etc with no problems.
Cameron
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Hint - it's the ONLY thing I had to farm out
Cameron
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Can you mock up a LCA out of rebar and eye bolts or threaded rod or wood or something just to get the length you need to prevent CV bind while getting desirable camber? May take a little effort but could save a lot of effort in the end.
Cameron
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What John said but not sure why the fabbed rear control arms? I have plenty of adjust ability with just offset bushings.
Cameron
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I have a very similar but not nearly as intricate a design with my LS motor. However at your rear 90 degree turnouts mine keeps going to the side to 14x4" straight through Magnaflows that dump in front of the rear tires. I was worried it would be too loud but it is about perfect and I get many many compliments on the quality of the sound. I think with the full mufflers yours should be relatively quiet. From reading stuff and now my experience I really think the X helps level it out to get rid of the crappy 4X4 cherry bomb noise.
Cameron
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I have to wonder if the difficulty in getting the air out the first time is related to the speed bleeders. With them you have to build up some pressure to let the fluid/air out. I wonder if this causes the air to want to stay trapped somewhere in the caliper rather than just flowing out like would happen with a std bleeder?
Cameron
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Had a Craftsman steel jack that only lasted a year or two - real POS. Have had a HF aluminum jack for several years and still works good and it is used weekly at least. Even with the low height it's still too tall to jack the front end from under the crossmember ... have to park on a piece of plywood for that with the race tires. Add to the list ... need jacking pads on the rockers ...
Cameron
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12.2" vented rotors with Willwood superlites on the front
Which 'kit' did you use?
Cameron
Z Car weights
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Yes I think I'm close but have yet to scale my car. It sure is quick by my standards. Jon - you need to bite the bullet and get one for yourself.
Thanks
Cameron