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heavy85

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Posts posted by heavy85

    Black T56 clucth oil??

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    The clutch fluid keeps turning black. There is a black residue all over the bottom of the master. It's a new Tilton master with a braided line to the stock slave. I run synthetic dot 3/4 brake fluid. I've changed it a couple times and within a day or two it's black again. Clutch works fine I'm just concerned that there is a seal thats degrading and will fail at the wrong time. Any ideas?

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    Oil out the R200 breather?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    I've consistently had problems with oil coming out the diff breather. Just switched to a finned cover an noticed it has a different breather. The old one was black plastic with an arrow on it. It's just a cap snapped over a tube - no filter, mesh, or anything. The new one is metal and the cap is crimped on at the bottom. Real question is if these diffs all slobber oil out the breather and I should go ahead and run it to a catch can or does it just take the other style breather?

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    240sx Rear Caliper Swap Issue - E-brake Actuation

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Hmm.. never had any problem with my parking brake and the 240sx calipers. Grabs hard about halfway through the handle throw. But I made my own adapters. My cables are crossed too -- otherwise they hang funny under the car.

     

    ParkingBrakeAdapterInstalledMedium.jpg

     

    You don't need any fluid in the calipers for the parking brake to work...

     

     

     

    - Greg -

     

    What cable is that as it's different than a 240z cable?

     

    Cameron

    Water Temp Sender

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    east side of hollywood, the car is from santa rosa.

     

    another question for you guys. with the stock temp gauge hooked up where does your needle sit? mine is pretty high. probly 3/4 of the ways up. not in the red but up there.

     

    thanks

     

    I used the John's adapter that goes into the block on the drivers side. There is a huge plug threaded in that you replace with a special adapter and Datsun sender. You could easily drill and tap the stock plug though. It runs in the first leg of the 'M' on the gauge - just over half way. On track it creeps up higher to the 'P'. Since I dont know where TEMP is in degrees I just added an Autometer gauge. Have not run the car yet but it's sender goes into the unused port on the passenger head. Internet search will easily find sender to LS adapter. I've read that the heads are not consistent due to flow path of the water so it will be interesting to see what the head temp tells me. I'm running JTR headers and they clear fine.

     

    Cameron

    MM rear brake kit arrived!

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    The one question I still need an answer to is how to attach the e-brake cable to the 240SX caliper e-brake bracket. The 240SX e-brake bracket is too thick to use the original lock plate and groove on the e-brake cable. In looking at a few pictures, it looks like ppl are using one of the lock plates from the hardline mount points on the body instead of the original lock plate, however the opening on these are too wide and the second groove (not intended for this purpose) on the e-brake cable is not deep enough to act as a solid leverage/holding point. Any suggestions on what others have done here would be helpful.

     

    Adam

     

    Old thread but I am trying to install mine and have the same issue. What's the norm to fix this?

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    How to install SS Cat into mild steel exhaust?

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    Thanks for the feedback. Internet searching shows a bunch of heated debate on MS to SS. Most end up with theoretical you shouldn't do it vs 'well I did it and it lasted 10 ... 20 ... years ... offroad ... etc. Guess I'll try and see what happens. Sure will make them easy to install just hope they dont rob power.

     

    Per request here's a couple more pics

     

    P10100281.JPG

     

    P10100303.JPG

     

    Cameron

    How to install SS Cat into mild steel exhaust?

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    Heavy85,

    Can you post pictures of your side exit exhaust?

     

    2008_0810MCAug10Race0078_sized.jpg

     

    You can see it poking out just in front of the tire. Basically dual 2.5 to x pipe behind tranny mount then roughly 90 degree to either side to straight through Magnaflows then a stubby 'tip' to take it somewhat out of the wheelwell. Sounds great and honestly is not too loud. It's on stands so if you want I can take a bottoms up picture.

     

    Cameron

    I need roll cage advice

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    Page 3 if anyone doesn't feel like looking. Is it an optical illusion or is the main hoop more than 180 degree? Also, where does the rear supports attach - the inner fender or the strut tower? Last question - what size & thickness tubing? Looks like a good option to the NHRA or Autopower prefab types that I assume meets SCCA/NASA specs.

     

    Cameron

    How to install SS Cat into mild steel exhaust?

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    Well I just got some Magnaflow spun cats for the LS1. Yeah it's primarily a racecar but I'm tired of smelling like exhaust every time I drive it. I have side exhaust so it's not a seal issue it just wraps around and in the window. Anyway, they arrived today and I'm amazed how light they are. Probably only a lb or two more than just the straight tube. So now I'm scratching my head how to install them. I've got dual 2.5" mild steel pipes but the cats are SS slip-on fit so the pipes will slip inside. Any ideas? Weld mild to SS? Some type of clamp??

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    Wilwood, Outlaw, etc front brake hose specs?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    1/8 NPT to -3AN to M10 at the factory connection. Now how long - looks like about 15" maybe and a 45 deg at the caliper may be better than 90 degree. Also can't seem to find anyone that sells DOT SS lines. Apparently I'm google deficient as I know they are out there. I've been running what I assume are not DOT rated lines but since I have to buy new might as well get legal as well.

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    Wilwood, Outlaw, etc front brake hose specs?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Need to hook-up my Outlaw calipers. By looking the location of the caliper and hose connection is very similar to Arizona Z set-up. Does anyone know the specs of the front brake hoses for these set-ups? Looks like a straight on one end and a 90 at the caliper would do the trick but what length and thread sized on the ends? Going to have to mail order some and dont want to get it wrong.

     

    Thanks

    Cameron

    Recommendations for two-piece rotor?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I was thinking the heavier duty rotors would be more heat tolerance and less likely to fade. Therefore I was looking at this from a performance perspective trying to trade off weight, cost, and fade - life being far down on the list. Since most of my use is autocross with the occasional high speed autocross (<15 laps total between three practices and 4-6 times runs) and possibly an open track or two at the most the lighter weight duty rotors may be the ticket. If the lighter duty rotors dont last as long but perform just as well then that makes it a little easier. I'm going to run Hawk HP+ since I still drive to the track so they are not true track pads. Also have been a bit gun shy because both Wilwood and Coleman rate their lighter duty rotor as dirt, rear axle, etc only.

     

    Anyway from everyone's input I'm now leaning toward 160-5845 & 160-5846 Ultra-Light ULHP- 32 from Wilwood or possibly similar 'custom' Coleman lightweight directional rotors. The Wilwoods are a bit cheaper and I have no idea the weight of the Colemans.

     

    Cameron

    Recommendations for two-piece rotor?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I need to buy rotors to fit the front Outlaw calipers and JSK hats I just ordered. There's a large variety of options (12.19x1.25) from Wilwood, Coleman, probably others. Std, heavy duty, light duty, straight, curved, etc, etc. Anywhere from $48 to several hundred $. I'm not running cooling ducts since this is still street driven but it will spend time on track so they need to hold up without fade. Any recommendations where to start here? I'm thinking with 2300 lb weight the lighter duty curved rotors may be the way to go but looking for some others experience here to lean one.

     

    Thank

    Cameron

    Brake bias tuning

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Uh yeah I know how these work I still dont get your point. This is a race car (primarily anyway) so I want to tune the upper range ... which can be accomplished through piston sizes (MC or caliper) and / or bias valve if you are rear biased. Not too concerned at this point with slow performance and I'm not going to run a dual master set-up. I'm trying to develop my set-up based on a real world comparable system with test results and get the basics well balanced.

     

    So back to my question to Myron ... do you know if the bias bar is towards the front or rear? In other words without dual masters would I need a rear bias valve to get it nailed? Also,where did you end up with pads?

     

    Cameron

    Brake bias tuning

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    The rear bias valve, if you mean an adjustable prop valve, doesn't change the bias in the same way. It has a knee in its pressure curve, so it is useful to have one so that you can get the max amount of pressure at low speeds and have it taper off at high speeds, this all being in addition to the bias bar.

     

    Net result is similar so what's you point?

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