2126
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Posts posted by 2126
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Mines been up and running since the completion of the rebuild in 2002. All the time and effort that went into the rebuild project was worth every penny and drop of sweat........it so much fun to drive, it should be considered illegal!!!
Tom
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Well mine is a bit larger then that one but all and all you will LOVE having a lathe. My Rockwell was given to me FREE by my uncle with no tooling and a 3 jaw chuck.
WOAH!. While typing this and multi-tasking I come accross this...
KICK AZZ!!!, I GOT ME A 4 JAW CHUCK.....
Back to your new tool, enjoy it and never get rid of it unless you're upgrading.. Do the upgrade first though
Well, I quess now you'll have a chance to use your dial indicators more often! Nice score on the four jaw.
Tom
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I quess some people will do just about anything for attention!
Tom
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I bet it adds 15hp to the car lol
And, as time goes by the parts keep getting lighter!!!
Tom
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Mine is pretty simple....2126 (HLS3002126) is the serial number of my 1970 240Z!
Tom
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Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, NISSAN dealership!!!!?
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I ordered some cutoff wheels, wrenches and some air couplers, and it's been 17 days and nothings arrived. So I called yesterday to get some info, and they said it was suppose to come on the 9th, and then they told me half the order was cancelled because they didn't have them. I don't think i'm gonna buy from them again, the main things I ordered got canceled. Just kind of frustrating, and a warning to others....
I had a similar issue at McDonalds....they just couldn't get me a fillet mignon!
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One thing should be obvious....the non turbo tranny is likely less durable than the turbo tranny but, should bolt right up!
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Thanks for the info. I'm going to go ahead and get it. I do plan on a little more power in the furture so I should get the supporting mods done now.
While you're at it, go ahead and install a LSD! You will get the benifit of not having to pull the diff again, you'll get better traction, and you will get a stronger 4 spider carrier as opposed to the stock 2 spider open diff. Check out Precision Gear....about the best deal for a new clutch type LSD. By the way, Jon is correct about using the 3.90 ratio with the close ratio 5 spd. I actually went from the 3.90 to a 4.10. At approximately 70mph I'm turning just about 3K rpm.
Tom
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For the relatively low cost of a set of new locks, I would think it would be well worth doing, if for nothing more than reliability!
Tom
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I just checked out Rebello’s Big bores are $850.00 a piece plus parts. They say they flow 365 cfm, my SWAG of the 2†SU’s cfm must be way off, or Rebello really bores these beauties’s out! (Speed is money, how fast do you want to go?)
Thanks for the insight Randy.
-Jim
Just a correction on the cost of the Rebello 50mm SU's....that $850.00 a pair, not each! How do I know this, I purchased a pair. These babies are little jewelery. The profile on the needles are custom ground, as none are available for a 50mm unit.
Tom
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Tom,
Do you by chance have pictures of your install?
I have decided to return the Momo pedals to MSA and look into something else.
So if anyone has an idea of what to use on or for pedals please let me know.
Thanks
HB280ZT
Sorry, but I have no pics of the Sparco pedals installed. You should take a look at what Sparco offers for pedals.
Tom
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Just a note to the guys having issues with sitting too high in aftermarket seats. Most race seats are built with a composite shell and are typically mounted with brackets attached to the sides of the seat. If installing this style of seat onto the stock seat cross members, you wind up sitting too high...especially when using sliders. What I recommend is to look for a race seat of the suspension design......basically a steel frame with suspension for the butt cushion. This design is typically an entry level race seat and are the least expensive. I choose the Sparco "Sprint" seats, as they are of the suspension design. They do not tilt either but are extremely comfortable. Payed approximately $200 for each. I mounted mine directly to the stock seat crossmembers, use a couple of spacers in the front to adjust seat angle, and for a 5' 11" tall guy I sit at what I think is the perfect height. And, the Sprint seat is narrow enough not to cause interference issues. Just some food for thought.
Tom
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I installed a set of Sparco pedals and it certainly was not what I'd call a quick and easy install. I prefer the shorter style gas pedal because of the way the Z mechanism pivots. I believe the longer gas pedal may hinder full throttle and does not provide the additional portion at the bottom left of the gas pedal to aid in heel-toe. Anyway, I positioned the pedal over the stock pedals, without the rubber on, and drilled through holes for attachment. Driving shoes do allow better use of these style racing pedals. I quess the exercise would have been a bit easier if access was better....oh well!
Tom
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Good question! My educated quess is.....its going to work the pump for sure, so Id have to say get the right pump if you want reliability.
Tom
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Regarding the fuel pump choice...if its for carbs, regulated pressure should be no more than 4 to 5 psi. If its for EFI it will require a pump capable of 30 something psi.
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i have a 300zx turbo 1985 with the originalk 15in wheels with 5 lugs.
in the future i would like to purchase aftermarket wheels, so i would like to know the stock meausurements for my wheel (bolt pattern, offset,and width) thanks for any info, any suggestions for wheel companies?
A couple of suggestion.......become familiar with the search function, purchase a service manual. Your questions on wheels/tires is likely the most asked question ever. The search function can provide soooooo much info.
Tom
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Of course I have no idea what you intend to do with the 240Z/LS2 but, with that amount of torque available under your right foot you should certainly look into chassis mods to stiffen it up and brake mods to wow her down. Also, later 1972 and newer 240, 260 & 280 Zs have thicker gauge sheet metal in the chassis than do the early 240Zs. When shopping for a Z, you always want to look for rust....the less the better! Spend some time searching through the archives. You will find and incredible amount of useful information.
Tom
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There is another avenue, especially if you are not inclined to do the fab work yourself....Beta Motorsport (John Coffey's business). He can supply you with complete strut assemblies. You might at first think his cost is high until you realize all that is involved. John is an upstanding, well known, and very talented guy.
Tom
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Yorgee,
All the answers to your questions can be research in the archive files however, its X-mas time and I feel like giving!
Basically, if you intend to lower your Z approximately 2", you will want to section the strut housings. Why? If you don't you will end up with very little bump travel (compression) and alot of droop travel. It is recommended to section 1 1/2" from the strut housing, which then requires the use of shorter dampers. Of course, it all comes together with the coilover install when you lower the ride height. What you will end up with is a better balance of travel in bump and droop travel, albeit both will be less than a stock setup but you'll have more useable bump travel. Yes you will need some method of adjusting the camber as you will gain a bunch of negative camber when you lower the Z that much. How do I know this....been there done that!!! Anyway, how that you have a taste of what is involved, spend some time and search the archive on this subject to gain even more knowledge on this conversion. Oh, one other tid bit for you....if you intend to run wheels at the rear that are wider than 7" you may have to use a rear spring with an 8" free-length as opposed to the standard 10" free-length spring. And Ground Control can provide you with the p/n for the shorter dampers.....and don't forget to use a 1" bumpsteer spacer.
Happy hunting!
Tom
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I'm 55 years young and have had similar back issues, as you guys have mentioned. First avoid any surgery at all costs, it a last resort and the odds are questionable as to the outcome. From my experiences and many hours of research and investigation on the old back.....the bottom line is pretty simple! You gotta get fit, eat a good diet, and then stay in shape!!! Too many couch potatoes these days! Its a cold reality when you realize your back is f'd up and life as you knew it has now been changed because of it. I always tell folks..."There are two health plans you can subscribe to in life, the pay now or the pay later plan". The genereal populous tends to subscribe to the pay later plan. Just look at all the commercials on TV that play on your emotions and then tell you to buy their pill or what ever to fix your problem....because it certainly wasn't your fault it's f'd up. Right!!!!
Tom
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Just to elaborate on annealling copper......heat to a dull or cherry red and then quench in cool water. The results will be better than letting it air cool and you can pick the part up right away!
Tom
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There's a chrome plating shop near me that will repair, fill and rechrome these bumpers. It isn't cheap but the finish is better than OEM. They just did some work on a set of early Talbot racing mirrors for me (aprx $300). Pricey, but professional. A pair of bumpers would run around $1000. Sounds really high until you remember that these pieces are no longer available.
Could help if you provide a location!
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Forcing more air through the radiator means you're increasing that air pressure. Fluid flow decreases with higher pressure.
Your first statement is certainly true. Your second statement about fluid flow is not complete enough to be applicable or true. Where you snoozing during that lecture?
Tom
riding buddy needed for san felipe in march
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Very tempting invitation....will check my calender. Just got back from a saturday ride out at Spangler Hills (SoCal desert) with a number of my riding partners....great time of course! I'm riding a 2002 CRF450R set-up for desert riding. I'm located in ventura county.
Tom