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QWKDTSN

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Everything posted by QWKDTSN

  1. I recieved my Ground Control kit for Christmas. It came with #175 rear springs and #150 fronts, I assume this should be good for a streetable autocross setup? I know many of you have much stiffer springs. It's going to be a while before I get the coilovers on the car, since I have a complete urethane bushing kit to install, so I'll have time to save up for shocks. My question is.. what kind, and where to get them from? I'd like adjustable ones, like Tokicos or KYB, that are made for use with the coilovers so I won't have to go through the rigors of grinding or welding with the stock shocks. Anything like this available? If not, what did you guys choose? I'd like to keep the price down as much as possible.
  2. Wow! That sounds great! Do you have any pictures? I'm sure they'd be quite a pretty penny, especially imported from Japan.
  3. They're pretty good. I'm not sure how heavy they are, but they aren't Volks, that's for sure. They have a reputation among some groups (like Supra drivers) that they're ricey, cheap, wannabe wheels. However, I personally don't think they're all that bad.
  4. Sounds like you're in the same boat as me. A crate motor will cost a bit over a thousand dollars, and should have around 250 hp. I can't tell you how much used engines will cost or how much you can sell them for, because honestly I won't be in the market for an engine for quite a while.
  5. I know that www.ztherapy.com sells conversion videos... Click the Master Price List. [This message has been edited by Nion (edited December 06, 2000).]
  6. That's the exact problem I'm having on my 240Z/R180 diff... I'm also interested in doing the R200 swap but haven't found any sites with all the information I need.
  7. You're going to need '73 or older to be smog exempt in California, which limits you to 240Zs... The first Z I looked at was a '71 which I promptly purchased for $1900. My personal requirements were: 1) interior in good shape - check 2) electrical all functioning - almost a check, but I fixed everything that wasn't. 3) strong stock six - this might not apply to you, I still haven't decided if I'm going to do the V8 swap or not. 3) straight, rust-free frame and body - check. I guess it's up to you, really. Look for a car in good shape and try to find a good deal
  8. Thanks, Mike and Mike I suppose I shoule go over what I'm planning to do . I just got my '71 240Z a couple of months ago and I haven't begun to upgrade it yet (fixing all the little parts that don't work first). I'm hoping to do the major upgrades to my suspension first, then brakes, then wheels, then do my 350 engine swap next summer when I have time to really work. I'm hoping to run a 16x8 wheel with coilovers F/R if possible, with disc brakes rear and the Toyota caliper/vented rotors up front. I'm going to be autocrossing once or twice a month, and hopefully travelling up north to race on some real tracks. I'm young so I don't care if the suspension is pretty stiff, but I don't want it to be a total killer on me because it's going to be a streetable car. any logical inconsistencies here? What do you guys reccommend? [This message has been edited by Nion (edited November 22, 2000).]
  9. Okay, guys.. I've read a bunch of stuff about sectioning struts, on the web and in the JTR book. I'm still not totally sure what it is.. but it sounds like a messy procedure. It seems like everyone's done it, though.. Are there any ways to reliably upgrade my suspension without sectioning the struts, or is it a must-do procedure for good handling? TIA.. [This message has been edited by Nion (edited November 21, 2000).]
  10. Hi guys.. I recently purchased a '71 240Z 4spd and have the intention of dropping in a 350/5spd according to the JTR manual. now, my question is, where can I get a 350 for cheap? I don't want to build one up from scratch and I don't want to spend thousands on a totally modified crate motor. The best deal I've found so far is $881 at Kragen, plus a $350 core charge. However, if I do that, I have to send away my six and I won't get all of the core charge back. any ideas? Thanks.
  11. Give me a break! Have you ever seen a Z32 engine bay in person? Drop a wrench and it will never hit the floor that engine is packed in there so tight, there's no way you could possibly fit an LT1 in its place. Besides, the VG30DE/DETT is such a nice engine! Why would anyone want to yank it and put a Chevy in its place? But I digress.. I must admit, it's a fun thought
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