QWKDTSN

No &$^&%^ing way! I've never read anything regarding the fact that a 168 tooth flywheel/clutch won't fit under the Camaro bellhousing! JTR talks about only using that bellhousing and they go into detail on which starter will fit which flywheel as if they both fit fine under it! I've never gotten any warning about this.... It took me weeks just to get this flywheel because the guy I was getting it from is slow as hell, and then it took me months because I kept getting the wrong damn clutch for the flywheel! This has been what's keeping me from putting the tranny on the motor and now I have to get a whole new clutch (Number four in a series) AND another flywheel! ARGH I'm losing so much money doing this over and over again!

Well, looks like I can get it on the tranny input shaft with a few whacks of the palm, but it's a very tight friction fit... I know it has to go into the crank before the clutch goes together. Should it be a press fit into the crank and spin on the tranny shaft or vice versa, or should it spin freely between the two? Moly lube okay to use or is there something better?

It seems that the pilot bearing that I got with my clutch won't fit either the tranny input shaft or into the crank. Is it supposed to be a friction fit in one or the other or should it spin freely? I keep asking these questions because I'm too cheap to spring for an everything-you-need-to-know-about-350s book

Nice looking Wilwood brakes Nice looking anodized rotor centers and brackets.. now if only the rotors were slotted they'd be awesome.. only bad thing is that they're still just 4-lug... But the price seems okay for a professional looking kit... What I really want is the $2395 kit from Arizona Zcars... I need to change my underwear every time I take another look at that kit...

I live in Pacific Beach, I just looked at your hometown, Poway huh? Not far, I have some friends up there. I haven't gone to any ZCSD meetings but I've contemplated joining the club a few times.

Wow! Sounds like you got the best deal around! I wish my project could have started out that way! You should be stoked Congrats and good luck, be sure to ask here with any questions because there's plenty of guys with more experience than me that can help out.

I know there's been some discussion about aluminum radiators (thanks guys for your replies to my previous topic!) and Mike scca recently said that he prefers the Howe radiator over the Griffin. Why is this? I can get the Griffin from Summit for $181 and the Howe from Pit Stop USA for $189. It's a half inch wider. No big deal, should still fit, right? Both are all aluminum and both are TIG welded so I don't think one has an advantage over the other without comparing the two. I probably couldn't tell the difference anyway. What do you guys think?

I don't think that's a very good price.. you can get a similar motor AND computer AND tranny from High Performance Salvage for around the amount that guy wants for just the motor and computer.

Apparently they do.. go to the Jegs website and do a search for Datsun and you'll find a bunch of 'Jegster' cages.. they have from a 4-point up to a 12-point and prices are very reasonable... thanks Mike for pointing it out. I'll ask around and see if anyone's used it because if it's a good cage I'll probably get the 8-point...

Wow, cool, Jegs has an 8 point cage for $149....... (evil grin forming) I wonder how much work is required for this cage versus the S&W that everyone has to completely rebuild? It exceeds NHRA requirements, or so they say.. I could install it in my auto shop class, we installed a cage into our Camaro in a couple of days... hmmm...

So do you guys think I should use the port on my carb for the brake booster and not run a PCV? I know there's been a lot of discussion lately on PCVs and I'm still unsure of their use. The Camaro we built in autoshop for 1/8th mile drag racing just has two breathers and no PCV. I think I'm going to try and return the Moroso water pump for a different one.... Anything you guys would reccommend for the same price range? (barely over $100)

No it doesn't... "Moroso has developed a low drag aluminum impeller to reduce horsepower loss, while still maintaining adequate flow. On the dyno, actual horsepower gain over a stock pump was 14HP at 7500RPM! Available in a 'short' design only, but spacers can be used to convert to a long design. Features an integral cam stop boss to eliminate camshaft walk." Then it gives the part numbers (SB Chev, BB Chev, SB Chev Oval Track, SB Chev spacers, BB Chev spacers). There's nothing about "for racing only". What catalog are you looking in, lone?

The water pump is a short-style Moroso aluminum, Jegs PN 710-63500. I just figured that every water pump on the market had that fitting in the top, the picture in Jegs doesn't show the top of the pump and their blurb doesn't say anything about it. Neither does the information page on Moroso's website. I'm worried that if I have to add a spacer under the carb, I won't have enough hood clearance and I need to use that vaccuum fitting for the brakes booster because I refuse to use manual brakes when I don't have to.

Okay guys... I have no idea how I'm going to set up the hoses from my heater core to the motor once I get it in. I have two spots for fittings on either side of the water neck (circled) but nothing on the water pump. I'd think I would need the water pump to circulate the water through the heater core, I definitely can't just connect the two hoses to both sides of the intake manifold. The 10-second car in the JTR manual has one hose actually going to the fitting on the water pump that my water pump doesn't have and it appears that the other hose goes to the passenger-side fitting on the intake manifold. My second question is regarding the power brake booster vacuum fitting. The only point for a vaccuum fitting on my manifold (Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap) is under the carb, as seen here. Of course, the carb doesn't leave enough room for a fitting (murphy's law). I guess I'll have to get a phenolic spacer and some longer studs, huh? I'm going to be using the vaccuum fitting on the carb (with the black cap on it) for the PCV valve so that's no good.

Ummmm, wtf? I know we're all supposed to be open and accepting here at HybridZ but that's just an atrocity.

Getting closer! Ever closer! I mean, once I get all the parts for the motor/tranny I can really focus on the hard stuff... setting up the clutch, putting the motor in, hammering, and so on. But the motor's getting more complete every day! I know for the money I've spent I could have a lot more power but that's okay.. I'd rather have a little power backed up by good quality parts Dig the valve covers - They're from Flaming Engraving and can be found for $75 on eBay. Come with a very nice set of studs and long billet nuts to hold them down.

With enough creativity you can swap in any seats you want. I got three 91 prelude Si seats for $200. They are totally dope. The driver's side seat has adjustable lumbar support AND ADJUSTABLE SIDE BOLSTERS! It's awesome you spin this knob and the bolsters squeeze down on your sides as tight as you want. It has a micro-fine tilt adjuster and a memory setting for the seat-back angle. I use the third seat to sit in and ponder in my garage

he dynoed 580 but I think he was having a bad day.. from what I've heard it's around 600-650... here's the pictures... http://www.gatewayzclub.com/articles/darius/"]http://www.gatewayzclub.com/articles/darius/http://www.gatewayzclub.com/articles/darius/[/url] here's the videos web page and yeah, do a search.

where can I get these things cheaper? I don't want to pay that much for some rubber motor mounts >

Hmm, I could see it running 14s with 200 hp because that's really not much. That's about what a 200hp L6 Zcar would run, more or less. Plus, factor in the weight of the swap. I dunno, not very impressive, but I don't think there's anyone around here that's doing a 200 hp swap

I have one question about wiring while we're on the topic - I removed a couple of wires from a switch on the Datsun tranny, reverse lights or something I presume, and they're never mentioned in the JTR manual. All they say is "hook up neutral safety switch and reverse light switch" or something along those lines in the Installation section. In the wiring section there's no mention of what to do with these two wires, I believe they are red and blue or red and black. I also can't see them in the pictures in the book where they are in my car, hanging down along with the starter wires.

The JTR book makes a big deal about V8 Zcars running less than 7 seconds 0 - 60 and quarter miles in the 13 second range. Whoopie. I think they're out of date or something because I believe even the most mild cars here can beat that

The 7M-GTE swap has been done.. http://www.autospeed.com/A_1111/page1.html though that is an RHD car. I'm not sure if there'd be any additional issues over here, or if it'd be easier. Those engines can actually be bought for around $800-1000 with tranny, from the research I've done.. call K. Watanabe for info.

Mine already says this:

I'd go with SDS if they have an 8-cylinder kit. It has a lot of cool features, you don't need a laptop to program it, it's easy to get everything installed as far as I know, though you may have to have the crank magnets installed by a competent shop if you don't feel confident doing it yourself. The control panel is easy to use, i've heard, and I know that by inputting a code and removing the panel you have a guaranteed anti-theft device. The car won't start without it. Plug it in again, input the code, and you're good to go. Of course I don't have any hands-on experience with SDS but from what I've heard it's a great way to go.