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They should fit. I'm running 205/60/15s all around in my 240Z. In hindsight I should have gotten something more like a 215/55/15 but oh well. With my particular tires (AVS Intermediates) the rear tire just barely rubs on the adjuster nut for the coilovers I'm using. It may be different for your application, but I ended up using a 1/4" spacer in the rear only. Front fits just fine. click here for a slightly old pic of my car

I think I've finally got a line on a good motor. It ran when it was pulled from the truck it was last in (owned by an elderly but, as I'm told, pretty savvy gentleman). The guy Ben who owns the shop I bought my tranny and am awaiting shipment on flywheel, clutch, and bellhousing from bought it from the guy and is willing to resell it to me for what he paid. $300. Here's what I was told. It's a 4-bolt main block with "high nickel content", supposedly in high demand, according to him. Fuelie double-hump heads. I'm getting the idea that this is a screaming deal.. What should I pay to have it rebuilt? My best friend works at Schneider Racing Cams and can hook me up with any cam I need, as well as the actual machine work since he sells tons of cams to tons of machine shops. So he can get some sway over the price. What do you think I should have done? I guess I'm just looking for a solid, reliable 280-to-300-horse street motor. Torque's not too much of a concern but I don't want loads and loads since I'm only running a T-5. I guess I want it to pull through the midrange and still be able to keep up in the high end (6500 rpm sound too high for anyone?) I continue to be new at this whole V8 game despite being in it for about four months.. eegh. Thanks a lot guys... I appreciate all your help. My swap's finally started, now that I'm actually purchasing things!

I'm a huge know-nothing when it comes to V8s (I'm learning!) First off, would this setup work with centerbolt heads (Corvette Vortec)? What's the deal with carbs, the idea I'm getting is that for a mild 350 a 650 carb is good for low/midrange and a 750 is good for high-end power. The motor I'm looking at has the aforementioned heads, roller cam, 4bolt main, and a windage tray, 10:1 compression, 300hp. The guy seems to be a competent builder and has satisfied customers. What I'm going to be doing is casual autocross, occasional drag racing, and a lot of bench racing I guess what I'm looking for is midrange, with solid torque and a top end that will pull past 6k. Ideally I'd get all that but I'm willing to make compromises since not all things are possible at this point. Also, where can I get a T-5 shifter on the cheap? Wrecking yard? Thanks. I've got my tranny, clutch and flywheel coming in in the next couple of days. I'm finally on my way and not just doing research! Oh yeah, sorry, here's the address. click [ August 20, 2001: Message edited by: Nion ]

I've seen both of those cars (Not in person mind you) and I'd say it's a push either way... i won't be surprised by the outcome no matter who wins, since both those cars are incredible!

It never actually states in the JTR manual that it is necessary to switch to a different clutch master cylinder, such as the Tilton unit pictured. I'm assuming that it is, but just need confirmation...

1) How long did it take you to do the swap, from the day you got the engine to the first day you drove the car on the road? 2) How would you classify your swap? High-performance, budget, show-winner? I'm being totally lazy with finding my motor and would like to get the swap completed sometime during the next school year.. I was supposed to start the swap about three months ago but you know how things are

Check this out... JDM RB2?DE 280ZX It's possible... i'd ask Stony about it since he was in Japan to get his 260Z swap done. He may know something about a 280ZX swap.

I used the Hyper-flex kit and yes, it does suck big red rocks to install, but at least it gives you the chance to do a very thorough and complete teardown of your suspension. It helped me become familiar with what was going on under there. My bushings are just plain old polyurethane and I'm yet to hear a single creak or squeak out of them. I mostly just hear my struts bonking up and down over every bump in the road, a problem I'm still working on fixing.

Wow stony, I wish that was me I'm going to call a guy tomorrow that some of you may be familiar with. He's mentioned in the most recent Turbo magazine as "Super Mario" and is a good friend of my own good friends Joel and Chris, who are doing Mario's 510 SR20DET swap. He knows a lot about this stuff so hopefully he'll be able to help me out. What would I need for an RB25 swap? Obviously the motor and tranny, then the RB20 Z31 motor mounts and RB20 oil pan (correct?). I know motors with a cut harness cost around $1k less than with a full harness/ECU and with that money I could use SDS, correct? What do you think? Sound reasonable? All this plus a reconfigured driveshaft and I'd pretty much be ready to go, I think, with an upgraded cooling system and a fabricated intercooler setup.... I know your swap wasn't so bad because you had it done in Japan where it's done all the time, how much worse do you think it will be to do in south California? [ July 26, 2001: Message edited by: Nion ]

I may be interested in the rear arms as an alternative to camber plates since I don't want to cut up the strut towers. What's the price? a couple hundred bucks? Let us know again. Thanks.

Dammit guys.. i just told the guy i was going to buy it but now you have me really scared. I don't know, maybe i'm wrong about some stuff. I've just been having such a hard time finding what I need all in one package and now that I've found it, I just want to seal the deal I don't know what to do now. I already told him it was okay to cancel his latest ad in the parts trader and I was ready to go get it tomorrow. One thing that does have me scared is he's asking cash.. I don't know... I'm not that knowledgeable about Chevy motors yet! Summer is passing quickly and I want to get the majority of my conversion ready to go before school starts in September. That means engine ready to go with tranny. I wish you guys had informed me of all this stuff before now. It's been several days since my last post and this thread hasn't had any real activity. Now I really don't want to go through with the deal. Ray, tell me where a grand will get me a 98 or 99 vortec with all that and I'll go for it.. tell me where to get an LT1 and I'll go for it. I just don't know where to look and who to call I guess this motor caught my eye because it's complete. it has performance parts installed, it's been newly rebuilt (actually, I don't know whether new rings are in it or not, I never specifically asked and nobody told me so I assumed they weren't...) and it had all the accessories.. water pump.. alt.. everything.. I really respect you guys and if you think I'm getting screwed I believe you. I feel really helpless now. Please help me

The guy had the engine pulled from a fullsize '92 Chevy pickup that was wrecked. It only has 55,000 miles on the engine. He took it to a shop and had all the work done, which includes new seals, the intake manifold, freshly cleaned heads & milled valve seats, etc. It doesn't have but doesn't need new rings. He pulled everything that I need, including water pump, alternator, distributor, wiring harness, ECU (with a performance chip, nonetheless), etc, etc. He intended to put it into a '79 Olds, but after building the motor up a bit, decided that a real motor would be better, so he had a 454 built (a '79 Olds is a real boat....) I'm going to call the guy who built the motor tomorrow (called 6 times today and he was never there) and find out exactly what was done, all the details and cam specs and such. He's willing to let it go for $1800 and I'm thinking of taking it.

Hi guys. I'm doing my V8 swap soon and am shopping for the parts I'll need. I'll be using it for fun street cruising and autocross. "1992 Chevy 350 Vortex TBI Motor - complete fuel injection setup, crane, cam, performance intake, fresh valve job, new heads, racing chip, wiring harness, double roller timing chain, asking $2000." I guess my concerns are power - I don't want to make too much just yet. Without knowing all the specs on its parts, how much power do you guys think this motor is pushing? 315? Also, I'm concerned about weight. It says "new heads", hopefully that means "aluminum heads". I'll go check out the motor. No matter what I buy, I'll probably tear it down to check out the guts, replace piston rings, gaskets, and studs and become more familiar with the motor. So what do you think? I think it's a good deal and my dad seems to think so too.

Hey stony - can you take any pictures of the motor mounts for your engine? I know you used an RB25 for basic fitting and stuff, are the motor mounts the same for the two motors? I am considering an RB25DET swap into my car and need to know what kind of fabrication will be necessary, as far as motor mounts go. I'd really appreciate it.

Supra510, no way! Is that the price for any 7M-GTE from K. Watanabe or did you get a really good deal? If that's the right price I'm doing that. What is the company and how do I contact them? How many miles did your engine have on it when you recieved it? 25-35k? Just to be sure, that's the older Supra turbo engine, right? Did yours include the ECU and wiring harness? How about transmissions? Is the same tranny used for the turbo and non-turbo Supras of those years? I really would like to do that swap but know less about that motor than I probably should

Hi guys. Here's what's going on. I'm getting the itch to do my motor swap. I'm going to talk to my parents about financial backing. My dad built his own plane from scratch and is very 'into' mechanical stuff so I hope without too much effort I can get him excited in what I'm doing with my car, and get him thinking that if he spends some money on it and helps me work, it will be his car too. He loves his toys just like any guys. So I've been discussing motors with my buddies all day. They're in the progress of swapping an SR20DET into a 510. My friend Chris has a completely unlimited budget so he's just going nuts with everything. I really would like to swap a turbo motor into my 240Z. I know a V8 is simpler and often more cost-effective, but for some reason turbocharged middle-displacement engines (6-cylinders) have always been more my style. The engines I'm considering are the older Supra turbo engine, Buick V6, VG30DET, or older Skyline motor (RB25DET or whatever the designation is). What I'm looking for is something fairly cost effective, something fairly easy to find help with. If I had the budget I'd swap in a 3SJ Supra engine or RB26DETT in a heartbeat, but I seriously doubt I do. I'd be happy with an SR20DET, as well, since it seems to be such a flexible motor. Are there any manual transmissions that will work with the Buick turbo-six? I've got a lot of questions that I guess I need to sort out. What do you guys think?

I doubt you'll have to make any tunnel or firewall mods in a 280Z. The 280Z has a wider tunnel than the 240Z because it had to house catalytic converters in the stock exhaust. I'm not sure, since I don't know firsthand how much work is required to put a T56 into a 240Z and how much wider, exactly, the 280Z's tunnel is. The one firewall mod that will have to be made is a swap or move of the hood latch.

A while back I decided to keep the L6 for a while and have some fun for it... and now that my buddy got his SR20DET for his race/street 510, I'm really really jonesing for a V8 swap! The only bad part is that I have about $210 remaining in my car fund.. I guess I'll try to get a summer job (yes I'm unemployed.. don't ask ) and start saving up. What I'd really like is to just pull a 350/T5 from any recently wrecked camaro/firebird with an ignorant owner and pay $400 but that probably isn't going to happen Time to start buying the parts trader again...

I'd prefer to use one for the extra features it has over the specifically in-dash ones, but I haven't actually seen one in real life (okay, i know, what kind of car nut am I, right? ) so I don't know about their brackets. I don't know what's involved in mounting one of the indash tachs in the Datsun dashes, but I'm assuming that the shiftlight tach can't be much harder, right? It probably just doesn't have any bracket on the back? I know it has a bracket on the bottom, but that can be removed, right? what about the shift light? can it be placed anywhere in the vehicle I want or does it have to sit right there on the tach?

I don't know what was going on in the guy's head. Apparently he just made the cut without checking if it was in a good spot or not, and the weld seam ended up right in the middle of where the threaded collar needed to be. So he ended up putting the threaded collar beneath the weld (don't ask me how he got it on there) and the lower spring perch ended up being at the very top of the threaded collar at a comfortable height (dropped somewhere between one and three inches, my measurements aren't exact - i just lowered it to where it had a nice stance and I knew I wasn't taking away much if any suspension travel). So I have essentially no room to raise the car unless I put on longer springs. I think I can get some from Dave Turner Motorsports, they deal with coilovers all the time.

Sure you could do it.. correct me if i'm wrong, but you'd have to have the clearcoat removed (I know for sure that they're clearcoated) and then have them chromed.. I'm wondering what kind of durability you'd get out of the finish. But if you're really interested and have the money for that sort of thing (panasports are several times too rich for my blood right out of the box), give it a shot and show us how it turns out.

When I got my rear struts sectioned the guy kinda messed up and placed the threaded collar too low.. this, in turn, placed the lower nut right next to the tire, meaning I needed a wheel spacer. I'd have to take a picture to show what I mean. Anyway, I'm wondering how much it would cost to just replace the springs with longer ones of the same spring rate, which would do several things: give me much more adjustability for raising the car, give a lot more clearance for the wheel, and allow me to get rid of the spacer. I need a 12" or 14" (do they make 14" springs?) in the standard 2.5" coilover size, #175 weight. Thanks a lot.

I've seen a bigger picture of this somewhere.. I believe it's a 93-95 RX-7 with an inboard shock setup. There's a rod that goes up and pivots that silver triangle around the bottom point, compressing the shock.. pretty trick.. i wonder if I could ever find the full-size pic...

10.1 @ 116. Pretty nice...

Yeah, yeah, that's what they are. I knew it started with an E. Um, I'll buy your set for $200...