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Hmmmm, thanks for the replies so far, guys. I think I will go for this radiator as long as one thing gets cleared up. Idaho Z Car, you say that the frame rails require clearancing in a 240Z for this radiator to fit? I think the standard Camaro radiator is 25 and change inches wide, and unless I'm wrong and the 24" measurement is the core instead of the core plus the tanks, the Griffin radiator should fit.. right?

I know JTR complains about all-aluminum radiators but I know plenty of guys who run nothing but all-aluminum in any of their performance cars without any problems. The aluminum/plastic Camaro radiator, besides being impossible to find around here (I can get the right size core but it inevitably has the wrong end tanks on it), costs like $155. I'll pay an extra $30 for a nice aluminum radiator that fits and looks cool... what do you guys think? First hand experience with this model or others?

I installed my water temp sender in the drivers' side cylinder head as shown in the JTR manual (page 3-10, item 6). Then yesterday I got my Performer RPM Air-Gap manifold and discovered that there's a spot to mount it near the water neck. I checked out my school's Camaro (Our auto shop built it to compete at the city's legal drags) and the sender is mounted on the intake manifold. Also on page 1-9 in the JTR manual I can see that it's mounted there as well. Which spot should I use? Is one more accurate than another? I would think that the sender being right next to the water neck would have a drastically different temperature reading than in the cylinder heads. I guess one or the other should be plugged up. What would you guys reccommend? I know, I know, I need to get an SBC manual, right now just about everything I know's come out of the JTR manual

Hmm.. let's see... three speed, two pedals... six speed, three pedals... i'd go with the manual

Last weekend? Great show. The coolest car there, besides Mario's 510, with whom I'm fairly intimate because one of my best friends is working with him to duplicate the SR20DET swap into his own 510, was this widebodied turbo Scarab. I'm not sure if it was authentic, since it wasn't a 240Z body, but it was sure a sweet setup, despite being in the Scarab position. Single turbo and a 4-speed tranny. I wish I knew some of the specs on it, but it was a really cool car.

Does one require a different crank and alternator pullys? Is there a weight difference? Should I get the short style water pump to keep my CG back? That sort of thing. I've never been able to find a definite answer to these sorts of questions and others, like why did they make two different styles anyway?

I'd go with the Ztherapy SUs. I got a good chance to talk to the owner of the company, Brian, a couple of times last year at Motorsport (ate at the same table with him at the opening dinner). At first i thought he was kinda goofy but he knows far more about carburetors than I ever hope to! He is a really nice guy, too, I found, very generous with information and T-shirts

Uh, that second one is a one-sixth scale diecast model... The only problems with eBay are the fact that you're promising to pay a lot of money for something that you've never seen, and you're expected to pay for several hundred dollars worth of shipping if you're not near where the motor's being sold. Anything may look great in the photos but turn out to have an oil pan with a solid inch of metal shavings in it. Or you could just get a box full of bricks. You know. I've never had a problem with a bad seller on eBay, so don't be too scared. I'd rather have a competent machinist build me up a motor for more money than it would cost to buy a complete motor that I can't judge the quality of. Which is what I'm doing. I'm sort of in your boat. I don't know much about 350 motors, yet, so I had mine built by a great guy who helped me pick out parts that would go well together for my application. There are definitely guys here that have better reccommendations than I do.

I don't think it's very hard. I've not wired up my motor yet but I do have the harness ready to go. Basically you have to strip all the tape off of the wiring harness that runs along the passenger's framerail and in front of the radiator. There are ten wires you find and put into their own harness and one or two that get cut. Then you cover everything with spiral wrap from the local hardware/auto parts store. Comes out looking clean, I think better than with the tape on it, personally.

Heh. Well, right now it's in the garage with no motor at all.. 350 high nickel content at the machine shop, I think it's never even been bored. Freshly rebuilt, should pick it up in a couple of days. Feulie double-hump heads, forged pistons, fully balanced internally & balanced 153 tooth flywheel. Schneider cam with a little lump, 6700 RPM valve springs, and 1.6 ratio aluminum roller rockers. T5 transmission (I know I'm pushing the limits with this ). Probably an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap and 650 Holley carb, mechanical secondaries (4150), though I haven't quite worked that all out yet. Maybe 700 carb though mathematically 650 will be fine. Flowtech coated block huggers. Probably just a standard HEI system. Exhaust will dump into 2.5 inch downpipes that will join after the tranny and exit via 3" to, I don't know, maybe a Spintech muffler. I haven't quite worked this out yet either. 3.9 R200 open diff, Tokico Illuminas, sectiooned struts with Ground control coilovers. really weak springs right now. (150/175 F/R). Soon to add MSA swaybar upgrade. Polyurethane bushings everywhere.

Maybe he's just confused... From what I know, there are two versions of a Datsun car that have different suspensions, but it's not a Z. The 510 wagon has front upper and lower control arms instead of the McPherson strut setup very similar to the Z's.

1) 1975 (first 280Z) 2) I believe it will though I don't have any experience firsthand with it. The first fuel tank to include an electric fuel pump was in the 260Z, though it's only for use as vaporlock prevention.

click Pretty cool.. I like the stance.. Wonder how well it handles with that 302.

What? What? I have no idea what you guys are talking about, and that scares me I try to at least have some idea of just about everything in the automotive engineering section of life..

Sweet, if that was my car, I'd just re-bend that downpipe a little bit, drill a hole in the battery access hood flap, and have the exhaust spit out of the hood

Wow. Now THAT is a nice, clean Z. Beautiful car, Auxiliary!

Just buy the JTR kit and get the driveshaft shortened That's your best bet. A short shifter most likely won't help.

Very nice bodywork.. and those wheels... !!! I hope it's got something kickass under the hood I found this, by the way, using http://images.google.com

Not sidepipes, per se, but side-exhits a la Cobra R. Have the exhausts connect behind the tranny and split off again to run out just in front of the rear tires. I'm trying to figure out a way to do this and still include mufflers (preferrably ones that aren't too loud and won't drone, which makes it even harder). I'm kind of thinking that one could use the Spintech oval tubing for the exhaust exit for the extra ground clearance. Is there any kind of muffled X-pipe I could use? We all know that there's not a lot of room under our cars for resonators, much less mufflers. The distance between the headers and the rear wheels will be very short, which makes it even tougher. I guess if I could get a good, proportionate picture of the underside of one of our cars on a lift I may be able to figure something out.. any ideas? I know there have been discusions about sidepipes here before, but I'm not too interested in them.

Hmm, that sounds like an attractive solution. The JTR book doesn't give really good information on the fuel delivery system anyway, I don't think, meaning that there's no pictures of the fuel pump/lines/carb etc. Maybe it's just that I've never done this before So I guess tomorrow I'll drain and pull my gas tank (maybe even slush it while I have it out), figure out what fuel pump I need, and go shop for some braided line.. You say you used -8, right? That's the same size as the hose running to your remote filter, if I'm not mistaken. I couldn't find any pictures of the fuel system on your page, but those are some big hoses Think it'd be okay to run the lines up in the tunnel, sort of where the old ones are? I haven't taken too close a look as to how they run forward from the tank so I'm not sure. I probably wouldn't run them 'under the car' unless they were tucked up out of the way pretty well, which is why I think the tunnel would be a bit better.. then again, it would be annoying to run them into the fender, which is what this is all about anyways. So what did you do with the fuel vent line? I think that's the one that's got me the most confused out of all three. I know there's the white tank above the main gas tank that collects the vapors, right? Then sends them forward into the engine bay for no discernable reason? I'm still in the dark as to what a charcoal canister is, and whether or not you guys use them anyway.

Hey all. My swap is going smooth as silk. I'm almost done getting the engine bay ready (god you should have seen how much dirt and grime was on the wheelwells and frame rails!). I have all the cutting, drilling, and grinding done, have removed everything that's not necessary, have separated out my wires and wrapped the harness with spiral wrap. The only obstacle that's really still in my way is re-routing the fuel lines into the fender. Moving the brake line up onto the frame rail was no big deal really, but now I've got these gigantic, barely flexible fuel lines hanging out of my trans tunnel. How am I supposed to "route" them anyway? Just drill a big hole, bend them in a big loop, and feed them through? Or am I supposed to cut them short and do the rest with fuel tubing? And what's up with the charcoal canister? I'm yet to understand how one of these works. the JTR book doesn't exactly tell how to hook it up, and also doesn't tell or show how to get the fuel back out of the fender well again. Can I see some pics of what you guys have done, or at least get some helpful hints? Thanks!

Okay, no big deal. I just attached the chain to the block in one of the intake manifold bolt locations. I took off the intake manifold and headers to make my life easier a day or so ago anyway. Pulling the stock motor is not hard at all. Just borrowed a load leveler from my neighbor/boss and yanked that sucker out of there, a little at a time. I wasn't sure I was going to be able to get the hoist's legs under the car. They cleared the front air dam by about 2 inches vertically and the front tires by about an inch on either side horizontally. My dad was worried we wouldn't have enough room to maneuver in the garage but everything went smooth as silk. I've got the engine bay halfway ready to go, just need to cut into the wiring harness My motor's in the machine shop, I need to pick up my clutch and bellhousing and get my flywheel resurfaced. Order clutch master, and this, and that, and.. I'm really on my way now!!

I think I found the first one (just behind the fuel pump) but can't find the rear one for the life of me. Where should I hook up the rear of the chain? Maybe with one of the bolts for the intake manifold (removed)? header stud? I just can't find the right point and none of my books are specific (hook up chain to front and rear hoist points).

Here's one video.. I'm looking for the other.. Greg's car is stock (plus exhaust and intake, obviously, since those are sort of a fabbed item for the swap), stock turbos, stock boost, and in the video I'm looking for he easily keeps up with some stage VI or VII TTZs. Very impressive. here's the one I found so far: greg dupree e-brake & fishtail

That must have been embarrasing! I'm sorry I almost drove my car right off the jackstands once (Front jacked up with no wheels). Needed to start the motor for something, not sure what, but it was in gear and when I turned the key to START it got stuck for about two seconds... That was so scary, man let me tell you. The jack stands ended up being at an angle, standing on TWO of their four 'legs'/corners. I thought it was going to come down any second. I ended up just jacking the car back up and moving the jackstands. I think the car went forward about a whole two feet And this was with the stock straight six, emissions and all. I'm not surprised your car took off with that ZZ4! [ September 08, 2001: Message edited by: Nion ]