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HybridZ

Silent

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Posts posted by Silent

  1. Silent has first hand experience with the Schneider cams, (he is currently tearing down his current engine to clean out all the metal flakes that used to be cam lobes), and as such, his new cam is a fairly radical cam that we had Rebello grind for his P-79. I’m sure Silent would be glad to tell all about his Schneider cam woes…

     

     

    missing 4 cam lobes

    everytime i dynoed it was lessand less.

    final dyno time, on a mustang dyno was 141 rwhp, and 160 ft lbs

    on that number, maybe less the car went 14.5 @ 97 mph

     

    either im a hell of a driver, or someone was pushing me.

     

    anyways. yea. i advise to stear clear of msa cams, as for they are schinder cams. i have seen many of them barf, 2 cars locally, not including mine. purely up to you really.

     

    on a side note, my engine bay is secksay now!

  2. as busy as he his with the other projects going on im not in any hurry but i would love to see some so i can get an idea of what im looking at =)

     

    Silent' date=' aree you up in Oregon also??[/quote']

     

    nope, im here in kansas city actually. bought my turd box in stillwater oklahoma. if you want help, say, if you go carbed, lemmie know. i could use a road trip

  3. thanks for the offer Silent and i would love to see some of the head work photos... especially any of the shrouding shots =).

     

    one thing at a time =)

     

    thats purely up to him {braap} on posting the pics. im all for it, because i personally haven't seen any yet either

  4. for an L26' date=' i wouuld say the best head to swap on would be an MN47, for the simple fact that it has a large exhaust and a small intake, which is what you will want with the L26's smaller bore.

     

    If you un-shrouded the valves a bit, you could get the compression down to what SOME people deem "livable" especially in an L26. I cant remember, does an L26 have dished pistons or flat tops.... its been a while since Ive seen an L26.[/quote']

     

    should be dished

  5. braap, you can post pics of it, it doesn't bother me any really. maybe one or two people locally view this board anyways, so the cat isn't out of the bag as of yet {im a sneaky lil guy}

     

    phant, thats cool. i'll have an n47 forsale here shortly with 15k on it, minus the cam, and rockers {they are both screwed}. just a tip for ya, with 142 rwhp hp, my 280 went 14.5's all day long. that might help in some way of trying to figure out how much hp you want and how fast you want to go. then again torque was around 175-180 ft lbs, depending on how i tuned it

  6. The ’82 short block' date=' if it has the OE pistons, will be flat tops and with the P-79 head will make for a great combination.

    As for porting. The How to modify your Nissan engine book written by Frank Honsowetz is a great book. He doesn’t come right out and give away any porting secrets, but if you read and reread the heads section, some things will pop out from between the lines and will point to the L-series weak sports, (hint hint… valve shrouding). Also, if you peruse the threads I linked earlier in this thread and study the pictures “carefullyâ€, that should be enough to get you DIY head porters going.

    We are actually building a P-79 right now for Hybrid member that is getting the full port treatment, Rebello cam and possibly N2O. If he is reading this thread, he may be nice enough to allow pics of his head and the port work we have done thus far to be posted, though that is his call.[/quote']

     

     

    the "how to book" is effin great!

     

    and yes i read all the posts, cause i get bored easy.

     

     

    also, phant, if you want a head, im sure i can come up with it in about 2 days time.

    e31 on up to p90a, and mn47 if so desired.

  7. noaws? i dunno what you're talkin about!

     

    ::digs toe in the dirt:::

     

    i don't have anything planned as of right now. just came across a maxima at a local u-pull it thing. was just going to see if it was worth my time or not. i may get a wild hair up my *** and build a 114 race gas only 13.5:1 motor for poops n grins, see if i can eclipse the 300 rwhp mark. or just build a sbc and save myself a headache.

  8. this doesn;t apply to 240 guys actually.

     

    on the passenger side, between the strut tower and the battery. there is a black box that houses the external regulator. in this little black box type thing there is two other relay type objects. one with 6 wires, and one with three wires

     

     

    what in the hell are these things?!!??!?! efi stuff? im tucking the wires in the engine bay of the 280. im down to about 10 total wires {headlights and three sensors} but the wired part is, i freaked out whe i cut these because i thought it was one of my marked ones to cut. soooo any help?!?!?!

     

    i have pics of said relays resistor thingies if needed. not the best quality, but a pic none the less

  9. ']At the track you will see guys running a breather hose from the valve cover to a small pipe welded to the exhaust collector. Apparently the high flowing exhaust does a good job at creating a vacuum and sucking out the air thus reducing pressure buildup in the crankcase.

     

    Later' date='Norm[/quote']

     

    thats what i plan on doing as well. simple science ordeal really. i think it would work on a turbo car, it would also create more vacuum, due to the air being forced out at a higher velocity. maybe t the line off to a vacuum gauge to monitor it? just an idea.

     

    i ran into this problem on my gsx, never really got it solved. total seal rings, o-ringed head and block, so it was sealed. but would get really pissy about 28 psi and barf the dipstick and cover everything in oil. my guess was the rings never sealed. so there has to be something. if it was there from the factory, there has to be a reason why it was engineered like that. but i seriously doubt nissan ever could see 400 rwhp on stock parts and expect that factory evac to work right

  10. I know I need the driveshaft...didn't know about the tranny mount...thanks.

     

    well i have everything from a zxt, aside from the stock shifter, which will be getting something better IF if decided to do the bw swap.

     

    but i can't seem to get a straight answer from anyone on the driveshaft if it is a direct bolt in. im really not in the mood to spend 400 bucks on a driveshaft. if that the case, i'll get the gears and synchro's cryo treated for the nissan 5spd

  11. Doesn't the Lexus IS300 have a 2JZ in it. If so does it follow the same general rule? They share the basic motor design but have little things like cams, injectors, etc changed?

     

    incorrect.

     

    the rods are weaker, the pistons are weaker.

     

    but the head flows better! just requires machine work to get it to fit the turbo block

  12. thank ya!. im just trying to figure out if i want to pull the head or not, if it would even be worth it to me to do it.

     

     

    the art work is now covered up with new stuff. they changes once a month.

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