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drive185mph

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About drive185mph

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 12/05/1989

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lynchburg VA
  • Interests
    just about everything
  1. I'm 21 bought the first one when I was 20, I bought it because the cars that are closer to our cohort are numb and heavy by comparison. They all have a hundred electronic ways to disconnect you from the driving experience, from the flow from corner to corner. Most of them lack any art in the lines of the body (80's). the engine bays are smaller and suspensions tend to be less adaptable. My second choices would have been a c-4 era vette, a supercharged swap Fiero, or a Porsche 944. none of the three combine the looks versatility and light weight like the z does. I did some research and found the Z because it looks distinct and fantastic, with more digging I discovered the body weighs half of what the new camaro weighs and it's not just light it's balanced (another thing later cars don't tend to be) the engine bay is large enough to accommodate small ship engines. From a suspension stand point These cars are very adaptable to driving tasks, (touring to rally to autox) between the light weight, suspension adaptability and the possibility of any longitudinal engine. these cars make great back road burners. The one thing they don't do better than most is high speed which frankly I don't have much business up there anyway It's beauty, poise and the power to weight of a Saturn five rocket
  2. I have the whole ignition set up, supposedly untouched from 1972, kind of a barn find type thing, I'm told it ran great 15 years ago but i haven't tested anything if you're interested PM me with what exactly you would like thanks Greg
  3. Dude way to fight it out, you have clear progress. take it for a drive despite the idle issue to make youself feel better and conquer the idle tomarrow good job Greg
  4. Alright I got the z home and got a chance to crawl under it. As expected the floors and frame rails were gone, but what is most damning is the fact that the front clip is so rusted that the passenger side motor mount and sway bar mount seperated from the frame. the motor is resting on the top of the steering rack. the car is somewhat tilted not that I have it on level ground. I don't know where this car spent most of it's life but just from the riust i'd haveto say new england or perhaps THE OCEAN! All that to say that the body is too rusted for me to realisitcally look at fixing it. On the up side: - the motor looks to be in good order nothing missing ect (i didn't have time to really get into it but it looks fine) - the car has a perfect, unpainted spoiler up front. it looks like an MSA to me but i could be wrong - a nice pair of jack stands were inthe car - a new looking york compressor (used to give an off road rig onboard air) - the car turned out to be a 72 240z but it had aftermarket 260 aluminum wheels with locking lugs - the rear moved freely and with no noise - the trans shifts smoothly and has no play - the steering rack has no play and feels great All in all it could be worse, I was disappointed that the body couldn't be saved but I'm content with my purchase. Either i'll be selling the good peices to recoup what it cost to get it or finding a shell to install them in but either way it's a start. sorry for the lack of pic but my camera is rebelling against me thanks again for you imput
  5. honestly having rebuilt a few different cars and truck I find that you almost never have a new componant related isue it's always something stupid like a disconnected cable, a missing ground or something along those lines. I recomend combing through, assuming nothing and just follow everything to it's completion good luck
  6. So I got a chance to talk to the owner on the phone and he said that he thought the rust was such that the car is driveble if that's true then that changes the focus of the work I'll be going it for a few months. I pick it up tomarrow so there will be pics and positive info I am way to excited about this. If the body is driveable i had so m thoughts 1) hydraulics will be seized so if i'm buying calibers and brake parts anyway, are rear disk convertions and front 4x4 brakes a worht while endeavor? 2) best way to stop rust without a roticery or making the car undrivable for an extended period of time (don't warry the rust will be resolved i just want about 2 months of drive time until I have time) 3) is it worht changin rear diff and trans oil? especially if I'm planing on an LS1/t56/Q45 conversion any thoughts? compulsions to slap me for not resolving rist right of the bat? advice based on past builds? thanks again
  7. well my thought was that for 500 buck I could probably much sell the engine and trans and make my money back if the rust is too bad to repair. My plan with the rust is to replace as many pannels as I can with reproductions and take chunks out of main panels as I go. I have a few experinced body men who are willing to show me the ropes and so I'm hoping to learn a thing or two on this car. However, for the imediate future I was planning on wire brushing the rust I can find and painting it with rust inhibitor. I imagine i'll need to pull out the floor pans right away but I am hoping that the rest of it can be dealt with over time. It will be ugly for a while but It's a path that will get me where I'm trying to go. What areas would jeporadize the structure of the car? Is it something I can resolve with a mig welder and some hard work? Also is there any way to improve the structure (make it lighter or stiffer) as I resolve rust. this car is destined for daily spirited driving so any such improvements are a worth while investment. By the way I understand how green I sound and I apprecite all of you being tollerent of that. this is my first Z although I have been researching them for quite some time and planning funds in a way that can land me one. thanks again for you help
  8. Hello everyone, I have good news. after years of reserching sports cars and sifting through forums I finally bought a z car Here's a link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170535001456&_trksid=p2759.l1259#v4-37 According to the owner it has been sitting for 15 years but it ran fine 15 years ago. I know I need to flush the fuel system and replace it with new gas, I plan on pulling the oils and flushing the coolant. what else might this thing need? I realize the rubber of all types has probably had it and that the carbs might be rebuilt but those might not be imediate needs. I hope to move to an LSX t56 swap later on. so, I don't intend to put too much money into the current drive drain but I would like to be able to drive this thing around until i can make the swap. I'd apprecite any input Greg
  9. the Germans do three things perfectly, and one is motors the second is beer and the third is motors. build it.
  10. I've been researching this exact topic and both engines are beautiful but i find the LSX wins the day as far as power-weight, power-price, power-drivability and power-serviceability. besides that some guy on here said he was getting almost 30mpg from his LS1 s30, if he's half telling the truth i'd say that's not bad. the LSX, is unique perhaps not as unique as a RB but you don't see alot of engine swaps driving around anyway. As for your power goals: the LS2 has 400 hp with all it's emissions crap and cats, and a mild enough cam so your grandmother likes it. It seems to me that 500hp can be coaxed out of it with very little capital there is no best but for your application i think there is a better
  11. Hey man could you send me a copy? pretty please drive135mph@yahoo.com (not drive 185 mph like the screen name) thanks
  12. dude it's hard to beat telling people that you drive a Ferrari but I have a sneaking suspicion that the Ferrariness will wear off and you'll wake up and realize you drive an unreliable rear engine Camry, and you'll miss the datsun but if it's your dream don't let anyone stop you, good luck
  13. I'd say there's no substitute for rowing through the gears, or for always being in the right gear when you want to be you just lose that with an auto plus it eats some power, go manual
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