Nelsonian
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Posts posted by Nelsonian
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10 hours ago, ihiryu said:
The issue is the OHM reading of the factory level isn't that wide. If memory serves, the level reads in quarters (Full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4), and so it's not super accurate.
What I have done in the was I used a 0-5v fuel level converter, and I used it for a digital fuel level inside the ECU for a customer. He didn't use SpeedHut gauges, he had a full standalone with a matching cluster, but at that point it read relatively normal.
If people are interested in this, I can reach out to speedhut and see if they can make their gauges read a 0-5 instead of a OHM reading.
That would be beneficial for all....
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does this problem exist with both the individual fuel gauge as well as the small one combo-ed in with the tach? I haven't purchased a full set yet, but intend to.
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I'm digging your car and welcome to Hybridz...
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Pure Turbo Chargers in Oceanside CA are very helpful, informative and as well as carrying the main larger companies they build their own and balance them as well as sell rebuilt units.
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Hope you get it all sorted..
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Deleted video to keep on topic
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Well done, now we need to see videos of it ripping!
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Hey Toolman, nice work with the reinforcing brackets. I have the Rocket bunny front bumper and will most likely end up doing something similar to your setup, but will have to adjust it to fit into the front of the Ztrix "Subtle Z" fiberglass kit. A suggestion of using surfboard blank foam which is more than readily available up country side in Haleiwa. It is very easily sanded and shaped. Great work and look forward to seeing more progress.
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Always one of my favorites Yasin. Please make some new videos of this car and the 951 as well.
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I may need to hit you up about the torque plate when the time comes to build my motor. Right now I am trying to finish the custom wide body work/stitch welding and wheel options before I turn attention back to the engine.
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On 4/26/2020 at 8:34 AM, RuzzianConcuzzion said:
New member, new project. Friends call me the Russian Concussion. Starting a new project that has been in the planning and dream phase for decades.
So Ill start with my first question - at what HP does it start to make sense to have a girdle bolted with the main caps of the 2JZ. Any noticable difference in oil circulation when using the girdle with a mid sump?
First off Welcome to HybridZ and it's also nice to see another 2J build. I found a lot of useful info in this attached article as well as from this magazine Dsport Magazine on other 2J builds as well as talking with many of the supplier companies (Titan, MVP Motorsports, Power House Racing, Driftmotion, ETC..). I would suggest if you have not already heed the warnings and address the few problematic components of these engines (modified oil pump, billet timing belt tension-er, modified timing gear) for engine longevity. I think you are going a bit overkill with a girdle at those hp goals, but if you can afford it, it would be one step more towards bullet proof. Same could be said for the billet main caps which will require a pricey line bore, but a check will need to be done on the stock tolerances and again one step closer toward a bulletproof engine. I certainly won't dissuade you from taking every action or opportunity to build your engine to it's fullest potential for longevity again if you can afford to then by all means do so.
I am going for low 600 crank on E-85 at high boost, but will also run flex fuel option and most of the time on a lower boost with premium (91) here in California. Definitely fortify your car to combat twist with the torque you will be producing. Definitely add to your build thread as you make progress and good luck with the build.
https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/toyota-2jz-three-ways-circuit-drift-and-drag-part-1/
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4 hours ago, RTz said:
Congratulations! Very nicely done!
I agree 100%
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Beautiful car there Trackzpeed !!
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Well done, love seeing progress.
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Nicely done!
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Thanks Zetsaz, but it took some work to get it to that point. It was in a decently cleaned state when I somewhat recently bought it and I ended up having the finned cover vapor blasted and used some of Eastwood Automotives products to get it to it's current state.
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I have an R200 LSD from a Z31 that I plan on installing an OS Giken unit into the remainder of and will not be using the stock LSD center. I also have 4 new, unused clutch packs from a previous group buy on here as well. PM me for more if interested.
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I am always eager to see what new progress you have made.
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Are you still looking for a long nose R200 lsd from Z31 ?
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I might be able to help some of your to get parts list with a brand new wire harness and Haltech pro2000 from WiringSpecialties.
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Wow! going to be a screamer, can't wait to see it all complete!
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I enjoyed the video, but hated to see the carnage happen to the car.
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Just bumping this along with the two remaining, lowered priced items...
Still for sale are :
I have a custom rear bracket set for the Arizona Z Car Wilwood brakes that will allow Wilwood spot parking brakes (120-2374 & 120-2373) to be used. Only have the brackets and had them anodized red to match the rest of the Arizona Z Car parts. I have all the necessary info for completing this = $200 +.shipping...
I also have my battery tray removed, blasted, and in epoxy primer with riv nut set up for easy install/ removal = $40 + shipping
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I can't help with a suggestion for body/paint place, but would love to see pics of your car. I also have the the subtle Z kit installed on my project car..
Swiss two-become-one 240Z Ground up restauration / JDM mods
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Always love to see your progress as well as all the rare parts you seem to find from all over.