Nelsonian
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Posts posted by Nelsonian
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I have a Tim O design mount similar to the Woza design which uses a Wilwood spot caliper for the e brake and the commonly used Wilwood four piston forged Dynalite caliper 120-6806 or 120-686 for the rear. It is new, unused and has been anodized red.
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Another car I am pretty much lusting over but most likely will never come across in person, at least not here in the states.
Too many interesting cars and videos here to let this thread stay too dormant.
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31 minutes ago, spitsnaugle said:
I've given all of my measurements and designs to Austin Hoke, he's a bit backed up with working on his house, and he and his wife just had their second child.
But on sad note, I've actually given up on my Z car. I havent had it running in 4 years, I keep finding other things to fill my time. I'm pulling the engine soon to sell the rolling chassis.
Spits, I'm really sad to hear your giving up on the Z because of the time frame. Personally I am going on 11 years of not driving the car. I have been slowly building my dream Z and have been down on it many times, but time goes by and funds recuperate then progress happens.
Funny enough, I just bought a 350Z mount from Austin the beginning of this week and I also sent him a link to this thread just trying to see if it would spark some interest with him. I wasn't sure if you were going to see this all the way through and my body/paint guy won't do anymore work until I have the rear end components on the car.
I might have my local fabrication guy interested in this as another possibility. He is very qualified, (worked on many 510 builds for Les Cannady and Adam Corrola) and very punctual and efficient.
Thank you for what you have taken on, enhanced upon and done in general as your time, effort and communication sharing with us all is very much appreciated. I really hope you reconsider keeping the car, but I understand if timing just isn't right for now.
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I'm still extremely interested in this kit also!!!!!!!!!!
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Here's how my 4 pt roll bar was constructed.
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I'm keeping my eye on this to see how it progresses. I recently bought an '02 expedition 8.8 diff, but am liking the removal of stub axle part to the equation you present here. Subscribed to this thread...
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Went up to visit the car today and pay off some of the bill and generally view the progress. The engine bay is almost complete, just need to remove and back fill the rivnut holes that were intended for the battery tray that will no longer be used. Prior to this round of work, I had Tho weld in rivnuts to make the cleaned up battery tray removable, but after committing to the fuel cell I will mount the battery in the back as well. A few of the factory spot welded areas will be beefed up with new spot welds beside them also.
Opened up the Ford 8.8 irs diff to find a watery mix in with the synthetic fluid which has a grit like, dirt texture inside. Starting to wonder if this diff was involved in a flooding. Not quite jiving with the sellers story ,but I was in need of a housing anyway and it is very externally clean. None of the gears are damaged in any way thankfully. I will be cleaning this out this week and getting new bearings and gasket. That's about it for this past week, but stitch welding will continue starting in the cabin.
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I'm loving them both!!!
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6 hours ago, rturbo 930 said:
I'm not sure how much stitch welding your bumper or tow hook mounts helps chassis rigidity
But it adds + 5HP, I read it on the internet so it must be true!!!
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20 minutes ago, seattlejester said:
Wow, going all out.
Are you going to reinforce the master cylinder area as well?
Yes, every seam will be touched. Going to make it as strong as I can, minus full cage. Squeaks Be Damned!!!
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A few pics of the initial front end stitch weld progress from this past week. The Endura brand epoxy primer has been a real challenge to remove and prep for the stitch welding. I have been super stoked that it has lasted as long as it has since it was applied several years back, but it has slowed down the welding with pre prep. I am in the process of breaking down the diff to bring up to Anaheim and have it vapor blasted, but have been contemplating having it dry blasted then powder coated instead. Not quite sure which path to take just yet. More to come.
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20 minutes ago, rturbo 930 said:
I think this is it. As it happens, your post jogged my memory, and I realized that I had seen it before, and that I also had it bookmarked.
http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041
Yes Sir that is it, well done. His write up helped me as I followed this with my S14 trans swap only to finish the machine work and sell the trans after buying a Z32 trans instead.
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22 minutes ago, rturbo 930 said:
Was it Nigel? Seems like he'd be the type to do that, and he lives in Canada.
Yes that's him, thank you for jogging my memory. Now if
I could only remember the site he posted it to. -
There is a difference from an s13det and s14det coming off the Black top engine. The later s14 has dual cone synchros on (if memory serves me correctly) 2nd and reverse gears and I want to say they are slightly wider gears. There is a write up by a member here on another car forum, that for the life of me I can't remember the members screen name or the site he posted it on. It was very in depth with well documented photos and description. I want to say the member lives in Canada.
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On 3/14/2018 at 4:45 PM, NW240Z said:
I have a 74 260 I am cutting up, That section is still there, and looks decent, as a puzzle piece.
Any chance you could get pic looking up under view ? I am a bit worried that car may be a bit too rusty for that piece but will remain optimistic. I am still debating on cutting my pinched rail piece out and rebuilding it, but would like to see another angle or two if you don't mind, Thanks...
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It may just come down to that option but I am first reaching out to a few other car forums and Z related businesses to see if they have a possible donor car to cut from. Tho of Time Machine Race craft does have a rather nice spot welder waiting for use.
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21 minutes ago, grannyknot said:
Unless you can see that buckle from the engine bay side you could get away with just boxing that bend in with some sheet metal to get the strength back. Just a thought.
Yeah, it may come down to that if I can't find a donor car to cut the puzzle piece from. I just spoke with Tho (fabrication specialist), and a smaller piece as shown in the edited pics would suffice if we can't find the upper rail all the way to the tip. My detail obsession or ocd, call it what you may, makes life hard for me to do simple things or ways that most wouldn't think twice about. Much like the painted wall of Singer Automotive "Everything Is Important" tends to rule my thoughts.
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Ritrebor,
Unfortunately I don't think that would work as it was cut just in the zone forward of the uprights where I need it the most. Thanks for offering and it is a damn shame as that would have been a convenient possibility.
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Just now, seattlejester said:
Those wheels look real nice!
Per our conversation, and since this thread is becoming quite useful.
Do you have any additional photos of the CD009 transmission fitment? I think my engine is a little bit further back then yours, but it would be nice to know if you have to bash out the trans tunnel or anything to fit it.
I agree, those wheels look great! I would be interested in seeing the fitment in the trans tunnel with that CD009 as well as my car just got dropped off with my Fab guy to do other work. I'm sure the original mounting tabs in the trans tunnel had to be cut.
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I am on the hunt for a non rusty passenger side upper frame structure to replace my crumpled one that was the result of the previous owners rear end wreck.Hopefully someone in southern California or elsewhere willing to ship, has something they can cut to fit the need. Pics provided for a better explanation.
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Finally got the old project moving in gear and loaded up for a little 45 mile drive up to Tho Chung's garage at Time Machine Racecraft for more stitch and spot welding as well as some fabrication. I also got a chance to see his '74 Mazda RX4 that I love in that green color. Also snapped a few pics of the front upper engine bay structure that was crumpled in the previous owners wreck. I am on the hunt for a replacement piece if anyone has a clean non rusty/crusty piece on the passenger side.I am planning on having the new Ford 8.8 lsd vapor blasted to remove the years of oxidation and leave a clean even sheen. That's it for now....
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I'm interested in seeing this progress, please share a few pics as it comes together.
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3 hours ago, Ironhead said:
Nelson, do you have any estimate as to how much of the flares will be filled up with the 275s? I suppose without your drivetrain mounted it is pretty hard to guess....
I am "thinking" (still a ways down the road) of running 315s in the rear....and I was wondering if the YX flares would fit them....or if I would have to go with the IMSA kit....
I could only guess at this point as to how the final fitment will play out. I will be using a Ford 8.8 IRS diff, custom Driveshaft Shop axles for my rear set up. I called and spoke with John in regards to the possibility of making the rear quarters a half inch narrower. He seemed to think it could be done, but in the end I decided to just order standard size. I still like other wheel options out there, (Work VS KF, or VS XX, BBS RS GT, or SSR Professor SP1R) all in 2 or 3 piece and wide width's.
The YZ rear quarters will accommodate up to a 12" rim and house 315's. Case in point would be Darius' 240Z here...
http://www.superstreetonline.com/features/1412-1972-datsun-240z-chevrolet-small-block/
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Looking forward to see some videos of it ripping down the road.
I AM BAAAAACK OVERKILL Z is going to be FASTER
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Welcome back OverkillZ. Looking forward to the next version of that beast.