getZ

Just as a note of caution on those eatons. I've heard the pulleys are difficult to remove without damaging the nose piece. I guess it requires a special gear puller. I found these guys a while back who sell different pulleys and a puller: http://www.pulleyboys.com/ By the looks of their design you could probably make one yourself if you have the tooling.

That's what a centrifical supercharger is. You can get kits from Vortech, ATI and Paxton. They are not as efficient as turbos since the have some parasitic losses, but they produce less heat then the older roots style super chargers. You can adapt one of those centrifical superchargers to an L-28, but they aren't cheap.

Eaton makes a lot of OEM superchargers for ford, GM and mercedes, as well as aftermarket superchargers for magnusson and TRD. A lot of their kits are well designed, but are application specific. Eaton superchargers have a good reputation as being very reliable, good for 100,000 miles. Change the nose gear and go another 100,000. The boost on these are almost instantaneous when you mash the gas (I have one on my truck) This is nice write up on the TRD supercharger: http://www.gadgetonline.com/Super.htm I thought sombody attached an eaton m-60 a while back on this site. If I remember correctly it was mounted on the passenger side. I don't remember if the setup worked well, but it was neat to look at. B+M is now Holley, Weiand is a seperate company. Two slightly different philosophies on rotors. One uses teflon tipped rotors the other uses tighter tolerances that they can get away with because of a stiffer casing, at least thats what there marketing guys say.

Ever find the problem? The only thing I could think of that might have changed is the fuel pressure. Did you install a pressure guage in line? With fuel injection, the regulator is installed at the return line going back to the tank not at the input. It's not like a carbureted system.

I asked my coworker about the flaking coating (he used jet-hot) and this is what he got from jet hot. The coat may flake, but as long as all of it did not flake off, it will still do what it is supposed to do. You may loose that nice shiny layer but the reflective thermal properties are still there. My camaro headers did the same thing on engine break in. That pretty polished aluminum look is now a dull grey but it is still cool enough to touch 5 minutes after the engine is shut off. I hope that is all I loose, it seems to have stabilized, but it hasn't seen that type of heat since break in. That's something else you probably don't want to do, break an engine in with those nice new ceramic coated headers. It was painful to watch that thing turn from shiny to dull grey I've often thought about trying to do the coating myself. I think it just sprays on and then you have to cure it in an oven. Of course you don't want to use the oven you cook in!

Head gasket choice? I haven't finished my motor to test anything yet but the amount of boost you plan to run is on the edge where you start to see people who favor o-ringing the cylinders (or at least conflicting opinions whether to 0-ring or not). To bad they don't make a metal layered gasket for z cars like they do for mustangs. I've read somewhere that some turbo race engine builders don't bother o-ringing with this style head gasket.

The only people I've seen doing hard anodizing or teflon coatings were building competitive race cars. I have no idea what kind of horsepower it actually gave but I would guess at the most around 5 -10 at the crank, as a result of better efficeincy. What is it going to cost you? I know ceramic coatings on pistons and heads work. The benefit is not just from adding the coating, but ceramics shunt heat and keep hotspots from forming in the combustion chamber. From that effect, you can run more boost without detonation. I don't know exact numbers, but I have seen supercharged cars able to run 10psi of boost without an intercooler, where as without the coating they were only running 7psi of boost (this is probably on the conservative side of what they could run). As to it longevity, there is a guy I work with in a whipple charged jeep. He's always opening up his engine, I'll ask him if that coating of his is holding up (I think he used swain or jet hot) on his forged pistons.

Yes, it is definitely cheaper than any other lsd I've seen. Yea, I didn't really read into their website until after I responded. It looks promising if it works as good as they say it does. You do have to admit it looks nothing like a lockrite, eaton, quaiffe, detroit locker, arb locker or nismo lsd. Do you anybody who has used this thing first hand for drag racing or autocross? Does it last? I'm not knocking it, but I am a bit of a skeptic when I've never seen anything like it, even more so when it's not right in front of me to look and figure out how it works. I'm all for cheaper if it is a good product. I hate to find out that "you get what you paid for" the hard way.

That is like no diff unit I've ever seen. Not that I'm an expert on the subject, but if you look at several different styles and makes, they don't look all that incredibly different. My best guess is it is a spool, where you tie both axles together, but I've never seen one open up like a clam shell. Spools are not a street set up. You'll only see them on dirt track cars and drag race cars. On the street, you need some slip between the two tires while taking turns or the axle binds up.

Just make sure you coat the inside as well as the outside. Ceramic coatings do an excellent job of reflecting heat. My camaro headers are cool enough to touch with the bare hand after about 15 minutes of cooling off. You can use thermal wrap as well, but it's not as pretty and it's hard on the metal underneath.

280ZX_Classic, Welcome aboard. I'm new to the forum myself, but it's a good site to get a wealth of information and advice from. I'm in the process of purchasing a complete turbo motor only because it's convenient. You get all the pieces together in one package. There's a book, a lot of forum members make reference to; "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. My copy has been ordered already. Setting up a custom turbo setup is very possible, but how much do you want to spend? I think you end up spending more money in the long run or land up waiting a long time to get all the parts together. In a very generalized statement, every pound of boost is worth approximately 10 horsepower. If you only want to run 4 to 5 lbs of boost it's worth something like an extra 40 to 50 horsepower. Is this going to be worth the horsepower versus money spent to you? Building a stroker engine with a bigger cam might be cheaper if you only want a few more horspower. If moneys no object build the current engine with 8.5:1 forged pistons and run direct port injection nitrous until you can get all the parts together .

......just thought I would throw another option into the discussion. Imported skyline lsd r200? http://www.arizonazcar.com/LSD.html

Is the setup still for sale. I just got a 72 240z and am possibly intrested. I ordered a JTK book but haven't got it yet. I just don't want to cut any of the car up to make this install unless it is very minor.

Hi. I'm new to the group, but a long time chevy fan. There's a lot of very good information in this form. I still think vortec heads a great bang for the buck if you don't get everything brand new. A lot of circle track guys run them. The vortec heads listed by summit above are the heads modified for higher lift cams (above .480). With the cam you are running, you can order the cheaper heads (part #NAL-12558060 $519.00 per pair) good for up to .480 lift assuming you are going to used 1.5 ratio rockers. Something to watch for when swapping heads is the combustion chamber volume as this will change your compression ratio. The fuelie head you mentioned probably has 64cc combustion chamber volume and the vortec head is the same so this won't make a difference in this case. Some of the later heads mentioned are a bit bigger. Lowering the compression ratio will lose a bit of horsepower. As far as a manifold selection, I have a high rise vortec manifold I can sell for 20 bucks. It's been port matched to another head so I don't know how well it will work or if it will clear your hood. As for the valve covers and rockers you can find them in a boneyard for cheap as they were used on late model gm trucks until the LS series engines came out. Corvette valve covers looks sharp, but need a bit of trimming on the inside if you upgrade to roller rockers.