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it's hard to tell how far in the headers tilt toward the engine block. That's one area of concern to keep it away from the frame rails. I run block huggers on a JTR setup and it runs really close to the steering linkage on the driver side as well. If you are running MSA or Scarab motor mounts there are long tube headers made for those mounting positions.

Like I said before, the idea I had was for a drag race only setup. It would also be for a dedicated race car. The fan could be put in place of the passenger seat, much like the intercooler setup the NMCA guys are running. The fan will not be running for more than a few minutes at a time. One of the problems with big fans is they take forever to spool up to speed. With an electric fan you could spool the fan up and just blow the excess air out, like a waste gate. During a launch you reroute the air to the engine intake. Getting three phase out of DC shouldn't be that hard with a phase converter and an ac convertor. Although this may not be necessary, the torque of a three phase may not be necessary if you plan to spool the fan up ahead of time.

seriously, I think it would work, but why would you want to do that over just running a regular turbo or centrifical super charger? Take a look at the tesla electric car, powered by a three phase motor, you wouldn't need a motor that powerful.

I've kicked the idea around of an electric turbo, but something much more sophisticated and for a drag racing burst only. If you used a big bank of lithium ion batteries on a big three phase fan, I'm sure you could get big boost, but the trade off would be the weight of the extra batteries plus the monstrous price tag that goes with it. The thing in the hyperlink is junk, but I think an electric turbo is possible.

Believe it or not I had the whole assembly masked off pretty well when I grinded. The only place I couldn't mask off real tight was around the splines themselve and I wiped the whole thing down several times with alchohol before taking the picture. Without the flash you could not see any of the dust in just normal lighting. The camera flash really makes it look filthy, but it's fine dust not shavings. I used a cutoff wheel on a dremel tool, it sounds slow, but it only took about 15 minutes a side and never put enough heat into the shaft where it was uncomfortable to touch.

?????? Nobody said anything about flipping inner part of the CV. I only flipped the outside ball bearing cage as per MMS instructions.

You don't need to cut back quite that far. You can gain quite a bit without having to recut the groove. Pictures and all: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134383&highlight=300zxt&page=2 The thread is getting a little old now, but the pictures say it all.

You should be able to put it where the two collectors become one. It's not super critical. Just remember to point the sensor down slightly or you'll get condensation on the sensor and over time it will fail. I use a wideband to watch over my AFR, but keep in mind with carburetors your target AFR is not always the same number over the entire rpm band if you are tuning for best power. I'm going back to tuning old school and watching vacuum. The air fuel meter is more for reference and to give me and idea of whats going on during differenct conditions and throttle positions.

even with the right CV shafts the axles may be to wide. It seems the guys having problems are the ones running the aftermarket LSD's. I have a power brute and somebody else had a Quaife., I don't know if the stock Nissan LSD had problems. Somewhere in one of the posts, somebody put the specs on the shaft lengths. There is definitely a long side and a short side.

I'm biased towards the LS, but don't forget the 6.0 caddy,the 6.0, 5.3, 4.8 truck engines are alternatives as well. I just don't know if the manifolds off the corvette and f-bodys are a bolt in deal to clear the hood. Sombody around here may have done this. Lingenfelter performance was geting about 380 horse out of the 5.3 truck engine with a simple cam swap and I assume some reprogramming.

Personaly I would think about what you want to do long term, how you plan to drive it and your future horsepower goals. If I were to do it again, I would go with an LS series engine, the aftermarket has really come around to bring the pricing down on everything: heads, bottom end assy, rockers, etc. Also realize the LS engine was built with a clean sheet of paper based off of what was learned with previous generations of engines, valve angle, intake runners and head chamber design. I look at the power numbers the guys are making with the new LS series engines and how smooth they run and you can't compete with the old sbc and LT-1. 500 horsepower is easy with an LS engine and the thing idles almost like stock.

From what I can tell, the people having problems are those running after market LSD's, even then the fix is no big deal, grind close to the retaining ring (on the cv shaft), but leave enough material on the end to hold the ring and it seems to give you enough room without binding. Use a light tool like a dremel and you shouldn't put enough heat into it to screw up the tempering. I took pictures on a previous post. Of course the cage has to be flipped, but most guys still have the end cap on. I opted to leave mines off, since it gave me a little more clearance and sealed the whole assembly up with gasket sealer. No headaches? Welcome to hot rodding, half the mods you do require another mod sometimes two or three more times. Tha's what the forums are for. You are lucky to have the internet this day and age to find out what other people screwed up so you don't have to. I got mines from Rock Auto, but I don't think they sell them anymore. The ones available are rebuilt.

thanks guys, this is all good information. I always thought you tuned to an ideal AFR (usualy richer than 14.7, maybe around 11-13), but that isn't the case and it's not always the same for the entire rpm range. I'm going to install a vacuum guage inside somewhere, so I can get a better idea of how the engine is performing.

This surprised me the other day playing around with the new carb so I was wondering if this was normal. I installed the new 750 Hp and base timing is set to 20 degrees advance for base timing. I checked the AFR and it was reading about 11.5. I plugged the vacuum advance in and the AFR goes to about 12.5. I didn't go back to double check to see exactly how much timing the advance put into the timing, I would guess its about another ten degrees so a total of about thirty. Can 10 degrees of timing change the AFR that much?

Got the car started again tonight and there is no comparison between the edelbrock and the holley HP. In a nutshell, you get what you pay for. Idle quality, throttle response and secondary opening (not exactly a fair comparison a vacuum secondary vs a mechanical secondary). My only complaint might be a cold startup without a choke. We shall see again tomorrow since the carb comes filled with some kind of solvent. I was really impressed with the throttle response, it wasn't that for off from the fuel injection! It may still need a little tuning, but overall I think I made the right decision and I did my share of consumer confidence in spending, at least for the month....

well it was a really stubborn one to come out. At least pulling the oil pan on this z car is a 20 minute job. I tapped from the bottom with no luck. I tried splitting the thing in half, but that got tough once I needed to reach further into the tube. I finaly put an undersized drill bit into it and it came right out. The drill bit thing worked the best with very minimal scoring down the dipstick hole. Of course if the oil pan were still on, you would have a lot of metal in the pan, but with this car I don't even have to drop the exhaust to get the pan off. It's one more benefit of the JTR mounts.

Thanks for the reply. I landed up getting a Holley mech secondary HP 750. Mileage is not that big a concern, throttle response, smoothness and tunability are bigger concerns. I may get a chance to dyno it against the old edelbrock soon.

not sure why this is in the for sale section, although my car is for sale. It won't get that much visibility with it here. I'll try the thread trick, if not I'll pull the pan. I need to change the oil to a synthetic anyway.

This is kind of silly, but I managed to break the dipstick tube clear off at the block. Anybody got a good way of getting it out? I can remove the oil pan if I have to and go from underneath, but I was hoping somebody had some creative way of removing it.

I think you are referencing the needle size? I should rephrase what I meant, numericaly smaller not physicaly smaller. It was off the little chart they give you with the carb. Anyhow it gave me better control of the airflow ratio and gave the plugs a nice brown instead of black, so yes I did lean it out. I like your taste in carbs, but I don't want to spend $700 bucks on a carb. I'd like to keep it more in the $500 range, besides I don't think I qualify as a serious racer, it would only be the occasional run what ya brung type racing and a bit of bracket racing. Nice pics grump. I should finish reading everything you posted before the years end. Work is actualy slow and boring so I have time.

when you say 825 for a carb do you mean a 750 rated at 825. That's what I was reading last night with the demons or at least what the ad was claiming.

Is my combination considered serious? I would have called it moderate. This isn't only about wide open throttle conditions. I want to consider part throttle response as well. Back to the original question of manufacter preferences, I was asking about manufacturer differences because I've heard a few bad things about certain brands. I didn't want to mention specifics to get biased opinions, so I intentionly did not mention the complaints of others.

dual plane, performer rpm. I was thinking more like a 750 with down leg boosters.

I looked at a few, Holley HP, Quick Fuel and Barry Grant. I just wonderd how people liked those carbs. When I tuned, I targeted 13 for an AFR, but in all fairness to the manufacturer I need to run the car more while looking at the AFM. I did not realize how different the car ran when under load versus winding the engine up in "park".

Anybody got a brand preference for a street carb. It can be a manual or electric choke, but I'm pretty sure I want a choke. I also think I want four corner idling, but I don't know if I need downleg boosters or not. Right now I'm running an edelbrock (carter) 750 and overall I'm not that impressed with it. Throttle response is sluggish. The combination I have on the rest of the engine is a 388 with about 10:1, dart pro1 200cc heads, 228 @.05 cam with 480 lift. This may be a bit to much carb as well since I tuned the carb with an AFM and landed up going to smaller needles and jets than what it came with.