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Posts posted by 78zlt1
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Just piecing together the A/C components one by one really.
12"x24" Condenser from ackits.com $61.51
You don't happen to have the part # for the condenser? It looks like the ports are on the same side, Thats what Im looking for.
Thanks!
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Thanks to HybridZ members here I've been able to source the pieces I needed, all trim is repaired and polished, Thanks All!
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Looking for the 3 small stainless trim pieces for the s30 windshield, 2 corners and small center cover piece.
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Mine is also still a work in progress, and Orange.
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Nope the ZX rack is behind the cross member, it would steer backwards.
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Whoops Screwed up the links, fixed them should work now.
Yea I stripped it to bare metal sanded the exterior body panels manually everything else I blasted with coal slag, then epoxy primed and did all the body work myself ( replaced the rear and drivers aft quarter, and replaced the front end rebuilding the frame rails and adding sub-frame connectors.) I haven't painted a car before and didn't want to mess it up at this point so I let a pro Spray it.
I'm using a 2001 camaro fuel tank because I am installing a 95 LT1/T56 ,I like the idea its a stock pump in the tank. fits ok , but had to remove the spare tire well.
The link below , has alot of pictures from the start to now.
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I haven't posted my build, but I hit a mile stone and just got it back from paint so I thought it would be a good time to post.
I purchased the car in 2002 and have been working on it on and off since then.
I'll post pics as I rebuild , and some of what I have done up to this point.
& wanted to thank everyone at Hybrid Z for the invaluable info that helped me to get this far.
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Wow , Great job.
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I have had good luck with Marsons Platinum. Its smooth and sands easily.
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Looks sorta familiar........
http://carscoop.blogspot.com/2009/06/amoritz-gt-brazilian-concept-study-for.html
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Looks great
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Got a reply from Motorsport auto :
The type2 airdamn is made with epoxy resin
Thought I'd post the answer in case someone else needed to know.
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Does anyone Know what the MSA Type 2 airdam is made of is it polyester fiberglass or epoxy fiberglass?
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Heres mine.... or lack there of.........
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I would grab everything out of the 350z , see what servos/sensors exist and make a plan of attack from there, the 350z factory service manual will most likely show the pinout for the hvac controller , if your lucky it will show what each pin is for. you'll have to backwards enginner it. anouther route would be to use r/c plane servos, and a micro controller to interface to the hvac system, but that makes my head hurt thinking about that.
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Most circuits in a car are dead till the key is switched to the on position.
hot with Ignition on circuits
Sorry this is sorta off topic, I see you are using NX5 , I use NX4 at work ,
is NX5 much of an upgrade from 4? I saw the pitch on NX6 today , it looks amazing.
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Has anyone had any success with this? I'll be doing this soon and am looking for ideas.
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Looks interesting,
How about the distance from the center of the inner tierod ball joint to ball joint compared to the stock rack , and campared to the LCA mounting bolt holes?
and size & spline count of the input shaft.
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Has anyone used a Dynomax Ultra Flo X Muffler?
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400358+318531+115&autoview=sku
I have an LT1 and a '01 camaro fuel tank, I want to run duel exhaust.
I thought of installing this instead of an x pipe , and use a couple of
these MagnaFlow 10416 on each side of the fuel tank because of limited space.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MPE%2D10416&N=700+115&autoview=sku
what do you think? have any suggestions? I'd like to have it quite but make some noise when the go peddle is smashed.
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I’ll be watching this thread with much interest; I won’t be to the point of installing
For awhile but hopefully this problem can be solved, I have 2 sets of 300zxt shafts
1 OEM and one rebuilt, and the rebuilt set are definitely reassembled incorrectly,
This info is all in the tread that getZ posted above.
again here:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125503&highlight=300zxt+cv
One question I have is, is everyone that is having problems using an LSD?
Or is the stock open rearend also encountering this ?
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I have that very Harbor Freight blaster, Never got it to work well till i converted it to PABlaster style, works ok for small to medium sized parts ,
and it would take forever to do a car with it , and probably burn up your air compressor.
Heres a link to the equipment I rented, Coal slag is alot safer then sand very low silica.
http://www.artsrental.com/index.html?ACTION=Rental&STATE=5&cid=10
http://www.artsrental.com/index.html?ACTION=Rental&STATE=5&cid=492
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How long will it take to go from a painted chassis to a stripped-and-primed one? Can it be done in one weekend?
I just did this last fall, I took a week off work to do it. IMO you dont want to blast the outer sheetmetal panels they can warp , I got a electric harbor freight 7" var speed sander polisher with 80 grit disk for it, I striped the outer surfaces of fenders, hood, doors, roof , rear quarters with it then finished it off with 120 on a DA.
I got a diesel powered compressor/trailer and a 250lb pressurized blaster from a local tool rental place, I bought about 15 100 lb bags of Coal slag ( get the fine 30/60 size) I had a full tyvek suit and full hood with a positive pressure air supply to it , ( borrowed from a friend) This imo is a must you could do it without it but you will be miserable.
I had the shell on a rotissery, that made life much easier. I blasted everything that I didnt strip with the disk. took about 4 hrs to blast it all.
It will take a few hours to clean all the slag out of the car/parts, with compressed air ,shop vac.
You want to use a waterborne Wax and grease remover an wipe everything down with clean cloths many times till nothing shows up on the cloth as you wipe it off. I used SPI products.
I also used SPI epoxy to prime the bare metal, I used a harbor freight HVLP gun and it worked suprisingly well.
It took me about 5 days total from start stripping to putting 2 coats of epoxy on everything,
Make sure you have everything you need before you start, you dont want to leave bare metal bare for too long it can actually start to rust i hours.
You can use picklex but thats another step to do.
Oh yea it cost me about $500 +/- $50 to do it, which was alot cheaper ( and alot more work) then the $1800 quote I got from a local stripping business.
280zcar's 78 280z LS1/T56
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Awesome, Thanks alot !