78zlt1
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Posts posted by 78zlt1
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has anyone tried to use a GM type-II power steering pump(remote resivor) with the subaru rack???
Thats my plan ( if the type II is the same as a 95 LT1 pump )
.........when I get to that point, sorta on hold while I work on my coilovers.
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Robert thats a nice clean looking 280 I really like it, Stealth fighter-ish
Do you have coilovers installed?
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Thanks good info , I have 17x7 rims with 40mm+ offset , so I'm looking at 1.5" spacers , Now it seems that 225/45/17 are fairly popular as far as I can tell, they are approx 25" in diameter, a 225/50/17 is aprox 26", just .5" more sidewall on radius, I just thought it would fill the wheel well and could lower the car .5" to tuck the wheel closer to the top of the wheel well and still have the same ground clearance I installed my front coilovers and it looks like I need to section them to get the correct bump travel , I thought I'd get my spacers and tires mounted to see what I have before I start cutting struts............ my head hurts:willy_nil
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Is anyone with a 240-260-280 running 225/50/17's on 17x7 rims?
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Thanks all
HybidZ = awsome
Ross/Modern Motorsports = awsome
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I hate to ask , but here goes. I recieved my coilover kit from Modern motorsports today, nice stuff. But I forgot to ask for the instructions:bonk: I emailed Ross about my order but got a reply that noone would be availabe till the 24th , which is no big deal, they probably are on vacation or such.
Thing is that I have the whole weekend free and wanted to try and install them. If someone had a set of thier MM coilover instructions for a 280Z, they could email me ( zob@suscom.net ) I would be in thier debt
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I have been wanting to look into this also, I was told that the LT1 fuel rails for the corvette exited on the right side instead of the left as on the F-bodies, I just havent done any research on it yet.
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I like it, I was planning on a nice bright orange myself, but that looks good also, (paint is so far down on the list I don't even know why I think about itnow
) Someone on the forum has a metalic orange Z, I looks great.
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Thanks for the great Info Fastzcars,
I modified my rack, and I think I have clearance I can live with now, with the stock pulley. Now I'm trying to find a inner tie rod that will work, the threads on the subaru rack are M16-1.5 , Moog has the EV162 that would have been perfect but its M16-1
, I found this site http://www.valleycruisersnb.com/BallJts.htm, great info, but nothing that will work, Does anyone have any specs on other manufactures Inner tie rods? To find parts everyone wants a make and year , but have no specs like thread size, makes finding stuff damn near impossible.
Mark said he got his u-joint from Borgenson , I will have to call them to see what they have available, I't looks to me that its 11/16 dia 36 spline shaft.
the Plumbing is next on the list...............
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Dan I'm installing a Subaru Power rack and there is plenty of clearance for it , not sure about the stock manual rack , If i put the man crossmember back in i'll check out.
as for the overlap the bottom is just a little better than the round port headers 3/32nds to an 1/8th max, thing is the Dport header port is 1/4 taller than the round port headers!
The plugs have plenty of room now, I guess I'm going to keep them and give them a shot, hopefully they will seal, I dont think I'll be running anytime soon tho , I guess thier made oversize for ported heads.
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Thanks Fastzcars, yea its not as bad as I first thought, I stoped guessing and started chopping on my crossmember, Its a good start , but I'm still not comfortable with the clearance, I will have to lower it a bit , and or use a underdrive pulley, I tried to pull the pulley off the adapter but the damn thing is rust welded on, my stock pulley is 7.5 inches in diameter.
Your's looks like your engine is set back a bit more than mine maybe not, your damper must be smaller. What size pulley did you use?
The low pressure return port you mentioned is going to present quite a challenge. I see you adapted braided hoses on , any info you can share on that modification?
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Your right the do look great
Fieros arn't bad if you have the right power plant.
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I bought a 04 Subaru Forrester Steering rack , as other had success with installing it, I seemed to have ran into a roadblock already. I set the rack in just to get an idea of what was needed to adapt it, as you can see in the picture the rack will have to be rotated back about 70 degrees to have the steering shaft positioned correctly, but this will also place the pressure line fitting in the center of the rack colliding with the crank pulley. The pulley is to close to the rack anyway,
My idea is to use a 20% underdrive pulley to gain some space, and relocate the rack lower and forward maybe .5 to .75 inches.
What advers effects will this have? I dont think moving it forward would hurt , It seems to me to be about the same as pulling on short steering arms. lowering it I'm not sure about.
Also noticed that the Subaru tierod end has the same taper and thread as the Datsun, ( thats the datsun castle nut )
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Just to update the thread , I swapped the mount spacer around to the block and everything fits great now , thanks !
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Eastwood has a glass polish kit http://www.eastwoodco.com
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280z Stock Spring info:
Front
Turns : 9.5 Turns
Length : 15.98 inches
Rate : 103 lb/in
Rear
Turns : 8.5 turns
Length :15.4 inches
Rate : 127.7 lb/in
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what did u do the the front of the engine frame rails to make them change size? purpose??
Thats the way the Stock rails are on the 280 I just copied it, It's basically like that to give more room for the radiator. I just cut it and trimmed the part I cut off and welded it back on. This picture may help.
And here are the other parts..........
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coincidence?
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Butt weld is the way I would go, overlapping seams will be prone to rust.
Goto Harbour Frieght and get these clamps, Cheaper than the ones at Eastwood. They will keep the correct gap and the panels aligned.
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wouldnt happen to have a spare good crossmember for the 280?
Nope Sorry look on Ebay I've seen them on there before.
Unfortunatly I lost the CAD file when my hard drive crashed all I have is the PDF file I uploaded. I didnt do the Subframe connectors on CAD ,I just looked at Pete's info and modified it a bit as I built it. I did use some SQ tube clamped to the rocker panel seam to make sure the subframe was parallel with each other and the front frame, , a good angle gauge helps too.
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I looked thru my photos and Those are the best
i have of the T/C connectors, I did find these they may help a bit.
Just take alot of measurements and record them before you cut anything apart.
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Well nothing really , Im a design engineer by trade so im sorta picky with measurements , and I want a common datum to measure from , my garage floor is not level so that was no good , I made a table out of lumber so that it was level and plumb in all directions, then I used my 2x3 rect tube ( that would later be my subframe connectors) on top of that with angle steel to box it, the same width as the seam at the bottom of the rockers , so the cars' rockers sat on the 2x3's and the seam was touching the inside of the tubes. this I called level and square. Look at the pictures in the post I linked above and it should become clear.
Oh and I glad your not "Handy Capable"
) 
, I found this site 
STI/WRX power steering rack Hummmm
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Sounds like you'll get to it before me, let us know your results, I think it will work fine, I'll cross my fingers for ya