78zlt1
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Posts posted by 78zlt1
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If you want to stiffen up the car put subframe connectors in , (see Petes Site) www.alteredz,com I used .093 wall 2X3 rectangular tubing
, afterwards I put the car up on jackstands
and accidently had one stand a notch to low , the car didnt touch it , Before it would have flexed and sat down on the stand.
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Thanks Bartman I'll swap the plate and spacer like you said, Think I'l need some longer bolts.....
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Heres an update:
I called Greg at JTR , he contacted Sanderson , Debbie called me and we straightened it out , Sanderson sent me the new headers and had UPS pick up the old ones, Great service from both businesses , can't complain about that.
Here are the New headers CC-5 Dport angle plug.
They are definitely D-port's But the port is big , 1/4 inch taller than the round ports. I don't know if they are better than the round ports, and possibly have less sealing surface. But the end plugs are accessible now, I'm going to try them and hope they don't leak.
The Passenger side fits great, the drivers side hits the spacer on the engine mount, I think if i put the aluminum spacer on the block and the setback plate on the motor mount it will clear the header, but will most likely interfere with the steering shaft. What did you guys do to fix it?
Steve
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280Bob you ever get this sorted out?
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You can adjust the door striker plate to move the back of the door up/down & in/out , to close the gap you'll need to remove the front fender and adjust the door hinges, then youll have to realign you fender too , then maybe the hood, sounds like someone had the door off, probably to make repairs, check under the car in the back and front to see if there is any colision damage.
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These are the headers I received , they fit well and clearance was good
accept the plugs on the end were close, so a short plug would be needed.
I made a template and found that there is only 1/16th inch sealing surface at the bottom of the port, This may seal fine but I didn't want to chance it tho, since I paid $300 for them I want to get real D-ports that would seal well.
I marked the opening with chalk , it was hard to see in the photo so I photoshoped the red area on to see more easily.
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I ordered the sanderson headers they fit well , except they were not
D-port headers, I called them and they are suppose to have UPS pick them up and send me the correct ones. when you order them really
stress that they are DPORT headers, repeat it about 5 times.
the headres I recieved were CC158 , not the requested CC5's.
Sorry for the rant , just want to help you avoid my delima.
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Well , I thought I had my bases covered, I called JTR and talked to Greg to order my headers, Told him I have a 78 Z , A 95 LT1 with D-Ports and angled plugs, also mentioned Sanderson CC5 as noted in other posts here, he agreed and I was good to go. He called back later and said he had none in stock but talked to Sanderson and they would coat a pair and ship them to me from there, that was fine with me no problem, Again good to go.... UPS droped them off today , I was excited , pulled em out of the box and they sure look pretty, so i grab some bolts and mount it up.
Man the End plugs sure are close , I take a closer look and the ports are not D shaped and CC158 is vibropeened on the headers. So I went to the Sanderson site and the only referance to CC5 is in the coming soon in 2002.
So I guess my question is do I have the correct Headers?
IF so , Are short Plugs needed?
Thought I'd ask here first , before I call JTR.
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I check out the forums at Hotrodders.com often . They have build Journals which are pretty cool. Thought it would be cool to have here also,
Check em out, http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/journal.php?action=showall
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Wow , nice job Looks Great
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Here is what I found on the tank pressure sensor:
http://gearchatter.com/viewpost14264.php?sid=42ae294155dfb187b700d6217eb25426
apparently its used to check for leaks in the evap system,
I couldn't find any input to my pcm for it (95 LT1) so its only LS1 PCM related, I cant use it.
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Hey Mat , no problem, I forgot about that myself
I just wasnt gonna pay $26 for a connector, the same ones are on S10's and there a billion of those around, hell i own one myself.
I'll post more info on the pressure sensor when I find out.
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I just got back from the Pick-N-Pull and I found the connectors I needed for the LS1 tank on a S-10 , not sure what year it was exactly it was pretty smashed up , but it was a 96-02 model.
And yea the black doodad is a pressure sensor , From what I understand the ECM uses it to control the tank vent valve (emissions stuff), at least thats what I'm gonna have it do. need to research it more.
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I am also looking for the connector (electric) for the fuel pump ( mine is a 2001 LS1 tank) what I have found is AC Delco part # 12167154 , (4-way female black) I cant verify it fits because I haven't bought it, it cost $26 so I'm still searching for a cheaper one as for now, will visit picknpull soon.
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Thanks zguy36 , So should I lower the diff .5 deg and raise the tranny .5 deg? that would keep it parallel but increase my ujoint angles, I'll try that and see what I get.
alternativez2003 Pete Paraska's Page has a wealth of information , its at
http://alteredz.com/ read it all very good stuff.
As for having the driveline on the centerline , Do you mean the horizontally or vertically? Horizontally (up/down) you could but you'd have to raise the diff or lower the engine/tranny , but that would decrease the ujoint angles more which is bad as zguy36 & kcelectronics said. as for vertically (left/right) I dont think you can .... the R200 input shaft is offset 3/4 inch towards the pass side, the JTR mounts also shift the engine/tranny 3/4 inch to the pass side to line up with the diff. I didnt measure but I'm sure the stock engine was offset the same amount.
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The way I measure the verticle offset of the transmission shaft and the Diff flange is not difficult , When I installed my front frame rails and my subframe connectors I made a jig so that they are parrallel both horizontally and vertically to each other and the car , So I can use the subframe as a datum to take measurements. I center a yardstick between the subframes and use a square to find the offset.
This picture will explain it better.
the 24 inch mark is the centerline of the car
I also measured the crank pulley and it is also 3/4" offset to the pass side.
So I know the engine is parallel to the cars centerline.
I use those Dial angle gauges to find my angles, they seem to be acurate to .5 degrees.
Transmission angle:
Diff angle:
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I have studied Petes' Excellent web Page and read the forums till my eyes bleed, so I think I understand , but just looking for verification.
I first made Ron Tylers famous Diff mount , installed urethane bushings in the mustache bar and installed the diff. The engine/tranny (95 LT1/T56) was installed using the JTR mounts, and a jack holding up the tranny ,(havent made the tranny crossmember yet)
The Diff shaft's center is 3/4" from center towards the pass side,
I Located the center of the tranny shaft so it is also 3/4" from center towards the pass side.
I didnt modify the mustache bar urethane bushings and used the top washers also.
So I took some measurements and layed them out to see what I had,
And this is what I got...
So my forward and aft operating angles are .789 degrees each and my Trans/diff operating angle is 0 degrees?
I'm just cant believe everything lined up the first time, without alot of modifications to do. maybe i got lucky
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Hey thats still good news sorta...
Can chuck em in the lathe and cut em down to .750"
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I also noticed that many of the metal sleeves were sloppy , I was just going to cut out the original sleeves and use them or machine new ones, But I 'll call Energy Suspensions , for $160 kit you expect the stuff to fit.
Thanks for the heads up.
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If the section you are removing is not going to be reused, What I did was just take an airtool with a 3" cutoff wheel and ground the spot weld down, you can tell when your getting close, the metal changes color (bluish ) when its getting thin , you'll get the hang of it after a few, and it doesnt harm the underlying sheetmetal. pry it up a bit and it should pop right off.
hope that makes sense.
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All I can say is AMAZING,
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btw.. they make a bondo that powdercoating can go over.. Dead Roman on this forum told me about it.
I think the stuff he may be talking about is , Hi-Temp Lab-metal
http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?ID=2
Basically an item that is to be powdercated (must/should) be conductive, and be able to with stand aprox 400 degrees F for aprox 20 minutes. and you have to have an oven big enough to put it in.
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Nice Info, Looks much better almost new.
I found an easy way to get the lens seperated from the housing,
I set my oven (a regular kitchen oven I use for powdercoating) to about 200 degrees or so and put the taillight on a piece of cardboard on the middle rack , after about 20 to 30 seconds pull it out and test prying up the lens the heat softens the caulk, you may have to keep popping it in the oven till it softens enough to get the lens off easily, after the lens is off clean the goo out of the housing with a small screwdriver , popping it in and out of the oven to keep the adheasive soft.
bad news for my z...need advise on frame
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
My opinion is to make your own front frame rails , that is what I did out of 2 inch square tube. they are very strong, I also built a jig to put the car on so I could get acurate measurements, I made cad drawings of my frame rails they are available in this post as a PDF file,
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=94710
This is how I boxed them together, I cant even guess how much stronger it is than the Sheet metal frame datsun used.
My car is a 1978 280Z.