dpuma8

I see that but I still do not know which one is the correct wire

I am trying to wire up some Speedhut gauges and I know the white wires will go to Green/White but what about the gauge power wire? I see that blue/red is on all the stock gauges so is that the power I tap into? Also, I mistakenly ripped out the ground wire to the door switch. I hate the buzzer so I am guessing this is fine but if that ground wire is connected to other grounds, does this mess with other components associated with my newly broken wire?

Oops. Sorry for the confusion. I have a new engine with mods in the garage. I want to avoid installing a newly made engine with a newly installed Megasquirt into my car with a base tune that may or may not work. I had a L28E converted to a turbo awhile ago so I have pretty much double the turbo parts. So the goal.....I think....is to Megasquirt the NA, then turbo it, then add the larger turbo and injectors to my NA, and then finally swap in the L28ET that is in my garage. So what I am wondering is if anyone has any tips or suggestions to my plan to eventually get my new and modded L28ET in. Are there any things I should do immediately such as swapping the L28ET oil pump, shaft, and dizzy in before trying to tune with megasquirt? Or should I wait until I have a tune already set up and working? Any other ideas? My running engine in my car is an N42 block and N47 head. My new L28ET is F54/P90

I have a professionally rebuilt L28ET with some head porting, GT3076R turbo, 550CC Injectors, and a custom grind cam sitting in my garage. What I have now in my car is just a stock L28E and Megasquirt waiting to be installed. So my plan is to Megasquirt the stock L28E to get any bugs out and have it running smoothly, then turbo the engine with my old turbo bits, and finally get a tune that could easily start the rebuilt L28ET. I am afraid of not breaking in the new motor in correctly because I probably won't have a decent tune on Megasquirt. To make the transition easier, what should I change now on my L28E so that I can make the transition easier from NA to my L28ET?

Hi everyone, I am having an L28ET made at a shop with a custom grind cam and some head porting and I plan on installing it into my stock 280Z. The plan was to have the L28ET powered by megasquirt but I am worrying about the break in period with the new engine. I don't have megasquirt installed yet and don't like the idea of trying to start a new engine with Megasquirt. So here is my plan and please let me know if it will work for the break in period or not. What I want to do is take this new L28ET and switch the block with my L28E, get it started and running properly with the L28E. Once that phase is done, add megasquirt and put the turbo components back on. I don't know the cam specs off the top of my head and I am thinking the turbo distributor, custom cam, and ported head might be problematic with my NA ECU. Will my plan work? If not, what do you recommend?

I ran a search on multiple sites and I see that the size mentioned is M8x1.25 but what about the length of the bolts? I am asking because I lost the bolts that fasten the thermostat housing to the head. Any idea?

I have close to zero skills with working on any car. I ask really dumb questions too. I ordered an EZ wiring kit with the mini version and it took me awhile but it got everything working. 5thegenluder has a build thread with good notes on how to connect the EZ kit to the Datsun wiring.

Update! Found a 280Z with no rust, brakes redone, tank cleaned, new injectors, and cylinder head redone for $1,100. Drives great with great oil pressure. Taking it to a shop now to get the camber plates and coilovers put in

Got one of them out. I figured that the drum would come out but it is still stuck. Any idea to get the drum off the old and onto the new?

I am converting everything over to the coilovers but I can't figure out how to get the nut off in the back of the drum because it turns. What is the best way to get this off and then tightened when it goes on the coilovers?

I was going to start over almost ans buy a new shell but I can't find anything without a ton of rust. So I have two solutions and I am not completely sold on what path to go. There is a shop that looked at the pictures and said they can rebuild the towers for $400 and reweld the plates in correctly. Problem is moving the car out there and I am nervous the angles will not be totally correct. Not a whole lot of confidence in shops lately due to my past experiences and what we are going through with my wife's 300ZX TT. The other option is someone offered to cut out all four strut towers and sell them to me for $100. Then we would weld them in. To me this seems like the best option but I am no expert on this. So what do you guys think?

Looking for a minimal rust Z Pre Smog Z. Looking mostly for a straight body with minimal rust 530-617-2326. Text preferred

I have my credit card in my hand ready to buy RC Engineering's PL9-550 injectors but before I do, I wanted to check here to see if there was a special configuration or modification many here get with the injectors. I have a L28ET with megasquirt and Pallnet 11mm O Ring fuel rail. Thanks!

Does anyone have a chassis drawing I can give to a shop? I found the thread in Hybridz but the links are dead

I have a coworker whose husband restores cars for a living. He is going to help me out on this. Does anyone know the angle of the strut towers? What is the lean angle? He knows of a local shop that can copy the outline of my camber plates and make bigger ones that will weld onto the top of the old holes. Will this work? He also mentioned going to pick n pull and sawzalling out the front strut towers and then welding them in. He says the job isn't necessarily hard but time consuming. What do you guys think is the best way to go?

Here are the underside pics from the front of the car. He didn't leave a lip to put the camber plates on. He cut too much out on all 4 corners. The guy had all the equipment and was certified. REALLY upset now. Sure it can be costly but I don't even know how to load this thing on a trailer anyways. So how much does a regular shop charge to put the plates in? I see they cost a lot but, how much are we talking here? I put the link to the arizona Z site and I added a youtube video of someone doing the plate install on a S30. He said he looked it over and knew what to do

Ugh, I am super depressed. I bought a laser and tried to see how off they were and it doesn't look real good. Notice the red laser line in the pics.

Crap. I knew that was the answer. On all four corners he cut out too much and then filled in the gaps with his MIG welder. So the plates are not sitting on anything. If I am getting this corrected, what do I do to fix this problem?

Pics

Hired a welder from Craig's list to install my T3 camber plates and they are slightly off. For example in this picture, the plate appears to be slightly forward and the corner towards the front of the car is a little lower by a millimeter than the corner facing the rear. Is looks a bit messy but it is getting pretty late here and I don't care about looks. So does being off a little bit make a major difference or do I need to get them cutout and redone? It will be driven 95% of the time on the street.

First thread I have ever subscribed to! Waiting to see how those new CR01 wheels look!

That looks very nice and I am looking at these for my car and wondering if these will fit http://www.frsport.com/530-Intense-Wheel-16x8-25-0mm-4x100-4x114-3-Chromium-Black_p_51108.html Same size but I have flares on my Z. Do I need a different offset to get them to fill out my flares? I am really close to buying right now so any help is greatly appreciated.

Cool! Thanks a lot for drawing it out and I will give it a go again!

I rewired my car surprisingly and everything works. So I decided to go a step further and add relays for the headlights and fuel pump. I started with the high beams first and I hooked it up with an extra relay to test it. What happened was the low beams wouldn't go on but the high beams would click on. They weren't brighter than before either. So I went ahead and added a relay for the low beams as well and now I don't have high or low beams. Does anyone know why or can point me in the right direction? This is what I did for high beams and low beams 30 - Battery 85 - ground 86 - headlight switch 87 - to headlights low/high I even tried the diagram listed on atlanticz 87 -

I am getting an L28et made at a shop and will have a GT3076R turbo attached to it. I have 3\8 fuel line and I am wondering if hard 90 degree fittings are okay to use off of my Walbro fuel pump. Is that okay? My other question is about fuel injection and fittings. With higher power I might be running, do I have to use AN fittings? Or can I just use clamps to connect to fittings and hard line?