dpuma8

I have a 280z with a leaking gas tank that I would like to yank out but I can't get my car jacked up high enough. Is there a jack you recommend for my car? Also, where is the best place to jack the back of the car up?

Here is a YouTube video of what I have going on. http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F&gl=US#/watch?xl=xl_blazer&v=XU2CFRcBPOw

I am pretty retarded an I don't want to mess anything up. If the flywheel is off and the block is on the engine stand, then what should I use specifically to safely stop the crank from moving?

I forgot to add that the block is on the engine hoist and is pretty bare right now

I got a universal harmonic dampener puller from Autozone and the smallest bolts does not seem to be small to screw into the dampener. Can someone direct me to the correct kit or bolts? Do I need to use that cylinder cap on the center bolt? How do I turn the bolt and keep the crank from spinning?

I am looking for piston rings but I can't see which are specifically for the stock L28ET. Can someone give me a part number or link to these rings?

Okay then! So add crankshaft balancing. How much should that cost me? Anything else? Do I need the flywheel on it? Should I bring that to the shop?

I thought these engine do not need to be balanced like I read in one of the stickies. Does it need to be balanced?

I screwed up and thought the valve job was a block procedure. I bought a rebuilt head online so I just need the block done

I am rebuilding for two reasons. 1) Spark plugs had oil all over them and I had much lower compression compared to the others and 2) I wanted to have the experience of doing a rebuild.

Thanks Oddman, you are the man!

I asked a local shop for these services but I am not sure if these are all necessary or if I am missing some important machining tasks. Magnafluxed block……………………………………..$25.00 Hot tanked block…………………………………………$48.00 3 angle valve job………………………………………….$150.00 Check and Polish crankshaft………………………..$55.00 Check and polish connecting rods……………….$150.00 Clean and check pistons………………………………$45.00 Any I am missing? Any I am wasting money on? Thanks a TON for your help

This will be my first trip to the machine shop with my block. What should I have done? Knowing that prices differ between shops, what range should I expect to pay for the services you mention?

Ouch! One radiator shop said that it would cost less than a hundred to weld, clean, and coat the inside but they need to see it first. A second shop said they would do the same for $225 since the sealant in the tank is so expensive. How difficult is it to do it myself and how much in supplies would it set me back?

My garage smells like gasoline right now and I see that I have a gas leak coming from my tank. I see that I can buy a fuel cell but I am kind of not too into cutting/welding to get it to fit unless someone tells me it is an awesome alternative. So will any S30 tank work fine? Is there a more desirable year? Stock or fuel cell? Cost of getting someone to put in the fuel cell?

I sure would like to find a better fuel rail so that I can run bigger injectors but I can't find one since Pallnet doesn't make any anymore. The whole modifying the turbo exhaust manifold makes me nervous too. Can you find good alternatives to those?

very interesting comments. I am leaning heavily towards the KA but I still can be swayed to the L. I really like the idea of parts availability, newer design with better flow and gas mileage. So what exactly do I need to switch to the KA? How much will i need to spend to get it running and welding expense?

I can modify the bellhousing to take the 240sx transmission but that might cost a good chunk of change. The only motor cost is the $500 I spent on the rebuilt P90 head and I am sure I can put it on eBay and recover some of that cost. So in the long run if I want 350 hp, is the L28ET the better option in the long run and more reliable than the KA? Does the KA make good power or does it need major upgrades to get to that 350 hp level and not a "better" investment than the L28ET? I can get a KA anywhere and a tranny for cheap like you said and there are parts everywhere. If it can't be that reliable with a turbo on it and the L is stronger, then the L series is better in the long run.

Dang! I was hoping people wouldn't notice. I only got one answer from Lance Vance that at first told me to stick with the L28ET but then praised how KA24 engines and the transmissions are so cheap. Is it so cheap to convert over? Just oping I can get some more opinions

My friend has a 240sx that he sold to me for $300 that runs perfectly and has the SOHC KA24e. I recently pulled the L28ET out of my car and my plan was to rebuild it until I bought the 240sx. So I was wondering how much it will cost to go the KA24E route instead of the L28ET. So far I have spent $500 for a rebuilt P90 head and that is it. So is there a lot of modifications to fit the KA24E? How much will it cost me in the end if I turbo it? My T-5 transmission grinds so I need to either get it rebuilt or find a tranny in good condition. Plus it seems it is really hard to find parts for the L28ET. So what do you guys think? What exactly is needed to go KA?

I have pulled my L28ET out and there is oil all over the outside of the oil pan. The strange thing is no oil ever spilled onto the ground. So is this something that a machining shop can fix or do I need a new oil pan?

Right now I have a 280Z with the L28ET pulled and in pieces. My T-5 tranny grinds in 3rd and 4th gear so I need to get it rebuilt. I was going to rebuild the L28ET but then my friend told me he had a 1991 240SX that he wanted to get rid of for $300 with the 5 speed. I am looking to get 300 hp and nothing more. I have spent $500 on a rebuilt P90 head and that is it so far for my L28ET rebuild. So I am wondering which is a wiser decision and a better money decision; swap the KA24DE (and turbo it) and 5 speed tranny or stick with the L28ET? If I went the KA24DE route, is there major modifications needed to get this swap to work? I cannot weld. I have seen in the 4 cylinder forum someone did a swap for $1500 but what would be a more realistic cost? Any major headaches in making this work? So what do you guys think?

This car would just be a street car. I have read most of the stickies but I don't necessarily understand WHAT I should be spending my money on first. I have tried to read about Megasquirt which sounds impressive but I don't know what is enough for my street set up and what is overkill. It would be nice if a "pro" can give me a list of what I should get done and buy first, second, third, etc.

I have been trying to figure this out for a few hours and nothing I can think of is working. I have a L28ET with a 5 speed transmission attached. I am trying to pull the engine only so I removed all the three bolts accessible from the engine bay. I also took off the bolt that holds the starter. Underneath the car, there were no bolts holding the transmission. Any recommendations as to how to separate the transmission from the engine block? I am not sure how I can pry it off or how rough I can get with it. Don't want to break anything.

I am ready to pull my engine this weekend but I am missing the front and rear bracket on the engine. So how can I pull this engine with an engine crane safely and easily? Does anyone have a picture of the bracket in the back of the engine? I have the Haynes manual and it doesn't show me any pictures