DeusEx

i like the way you say your "first american v8 car" when the only thing american about it is the engine....which was put in by an american

One word...WOW Yeah flavour, couldnt have described it better and thanks heaps for the pics, they look great. But as i do, my mind has changed again, i have found a 2JZ-GE halfcut and am seriously thinking about doing it. My friends are divided, but dammed if i can think of a better six (apart from a e46 M3, i found an engine but no gearbox....my dream engine ......) and by all rights it wouldnt be too hard to turn into a turbo (too many hours in front of i-supra..)

no i didnt measure, its has the 32 imprinted on the choke....well im not really building the EFI on a budget, i do want it to be decent, but 1k would be my platform. Any other ideas?

ok so i hate to sound like an idiot but yes i was thinking of ITB. Selling the carbs for EFI was my plan BUT ONLY if i can get more Hp out of it. I know some stuff about carbs, but very little about EFI. I know that ITB's look great and give you more responce but are they nessesary for Hp? If i do manage to go for EFI and have $1000 to spend (say i get that for the carbs) what is a proper setup? Im not too sure what sequential multipoint is... So if i get a decent size throttle body, intake plenum (custom?) i know there is a fuel rail on a manifold, but i dont know much about them, Injectors (what size? 330ci?) and a new ECU? Is this more than 1k? Would i be better off starting from scratch or using a 280ZX platform? Thanks guys, hope i didnt ask too many stupid questions

Dude, if you can, get to Ultimate. They are in Chiba, they are the biggest Z car shop in Japan. They have a very nice workshop and some very very cool cars. Tetsu runs the show and he speaks ok english. At least he did last time I was there. If I could read Kanji as good as I would like to I could tell you which train station you need to get to. Here is a map, print it out and get someone to explain it to you

Single throttle body or individual. Oh yeah i definely have 32mm venturies. How much work is needed to convert webers to use EFI and tirn them into "individual throttle bodies" and is the change reversable? yes i was thinking about a 3.1, but its alot of work and money, but hey im up for an increase from 110kw to 175kw

i guess i asked for that one!

well, call me a sissy but what happens if you are in a decent smash?

After some quick investgation i found that the RB25DE makes 96kw at the wheels. Well shy of my 110kw. So it hardly seems worth the trouble and once again i am looking towards the 2JZ GE, but the gearbox is a problem to find, and it takes abit more engineering. Triple Carb 2JZ GE? who knows, ill keep my eyes out. If only the world would insure a Turbo car....just cause some rice boy in a WRX cant handle his power and smashes into things....

Hi guys, Ive had some interest in selling my engine, and while the engine is running fine i cant help but wonder if the money could be used for another upgrade. And i got to thinking the only thing worth doing for the <5000 bracket is an RB, and i WAS looking at an Rb20DET, but alas, no one would insure me. So what about an NA RB25, makes similar power to mine atm (im getting somewhere around 160 Rw HP). Is there a point in ripping off the EFI and putting on triple webers? (45's 32mm venturis) I mean, it sounds and would look failry cool, but is it a show boat thing? Its there alot involved in ridding the engine of its EFI? would the cam and timing need to be changed? I did a search but could not fine anyone who has actually done it...time is running out help! Thanks

This is a handy thread I have a P90 that has been ported and polished and am looking to get it shaved very soon in a last ditch effort to gain power. Its running abit over 160RW HP (was 160 before the new cam). With my current setup, without stroiking the engine i believe that re jetting my carbs and shving my head is the last work i have to do. But i cant see this getting me o the 200rwHP mark. If there going to be a large NOTICEABLE advantage in shaving the P90 down (and if so how much?) as well as rejetting my carbs? it revs hard to 6 and will go to seven, but i think i should be getting alittle more out of it? Or am i deluding myself? For those of you not familar with my setup.. Triple 45mm Webers 32mm Venturis, 200 Air correctors, F16 Emulsion, 120 Mains. CAM Settings Valve Ex: .012 In: .010 Ex Opens: 66 Closes: 26 In Opens: 26 Closes: 66 Lobe Lift: .318/.318 bored to 2.9 Flattop pistons F54 L28 linaged crank blueprinted and balanced internals MSD 6A ignition 2.5" exhaust roughly 8.75 CR Flightened flywheel Thanks guys

Hey guys Looking to do some tidy up mods and i want to paint my carbs from blue to black. Because i found that its gonna be easier to do that than strip the paint, cause that stuff is on there good and proper. If im painitng them is there any particular paint i should use or things to look our for? like certain things that should be masked that i may over look. Also, i was thinking about annodizing them, does anyone have any idea on cost or know anyone who does it in the bris area? Or any ideas other than black or chrome? Ive attached a pic. FYI it nw has polished trumpets instead of RAM Flows. Thanks http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=11936&size=big&sort=1&cat=500

Hey guys, Well its been a while since i posted on here an i am ashamed to say that i found my problem posted earlier in this site. Woudl you believe that i had a small engine fire that cooked one of my air filters and killed my spark plugs. Replaced them, instant smoothness . That was my bad. I was happy with it for a while, but i began to wonder if i should tune my carbs to my new cam. As a result of teh cam the car now revs to 7500 instead of about 5500 so its a big difference up top and i lost my stump pulling torque. I was speaking to a local engine builder who actually has a 240 with triple SUs and he said my car should be pulling from 1200 instead of 3500. He recommended jetting my carbs to suit the cam as well as dialing in the cam. Now i dont have a variable cam gear and i did find TDC so do i still need to get this done? Is it a law of teh jungle to have yoru carbs jetted to suit you cam? Here are the specs as a refresh. Triple 45mm Webers with 32 venturis 200 Air correctors F16 Emulsion 120 Mains CAM Settings Valve Ex: .012 In: .010 Ex Opens: 66 Closes: 26 In Opens: 26 Closes: 66 Lobe Lift: .318/.318 Any suggestions as to what i should do. As always guys your knowledge and help is always appreciated

OK as you guys probably know i have explored many options for my motor swap from 1JZ to 2JZ GTE and as far as i have found the RB20 seems to be good on the wallet for what i will get. I have read heaps of frorums from people putting in RBs but none saying if they were happy or not. So i was wondering if some people who have done the RB20 conversion could tell me if they were happy with the swap. Thanks

Im about as serious as my wallet. I agree with the work, the 1JZ would be a quicker engine, but i have to find the gear box, and the cost of putting it in is pretty steep. I guess thats the attractiveness of an RB, its cheap and easy, But i still think for an NA car, the 2JZ would be damn sweet.

Cool thanks, Seems like there are alot of issues with the TT setup (RE: intercooler). But the point of the shifter coming back too far is interesting. Probably have to cut up an old console. but its interesting that if i am going to have all of these similar problems, is it worth doing it for the power or an RB20?

Hey guys, I know of a guy selling a 2JZ-GE (NA) for 800 AUD and i was wondering if i could call on your amazing amount of knowledge to see how hard this conversion would be. I was planning on selling my current setup (see ozdat.com ) for an RB20 conversion, purley for the modern motor traits and the ability to pull more power from it ( i bet it wont have the triple webber sound though). But anyway, i have now been put onto a guy selling a 2JZ-GE which i know makes slightly more power than a RB20 and about 15kw less than an RB25 (stock of course). Now with the JZ i imagine that i would be flat out getting more power from it without putting some serious $$ into it. So basically does anyone have a rough idea of conversion costs or difficulty ( i know the exhaust is on the wrong side) and is the power worth it (keeping in mind for an extra 500 i could buy a mates 1JZ-GTE) But for an NA engine i think the 2Jz would be almost as good as it would get without trading to the V8 team. Any thoughts? Thanks heaps

OK, Well i pulled my jets apart last night to find that the previous owner had worked more of his strange mojo. i Now have 200 Air correctors F16 Emulsion 120 Mains Instead of the theoretical 180, F11, 130. So it looks like this is really a down low power setup (Of which my car had plenty before the new cam). I gave them a good cleaning with carby cleaner, and it drive much better now. But it isnt great. The local tuning shop refused to give me advice (hows that for client service) on what jets would make the improvement. There are a number of setups that you guys have that i would like to have tried, but i think ill just have to give it to the tuning shop and let them do it. Oh well, at least i learnt alot in the process, so much for saving money. I also installed a new tacho for the MSD, and it seems that my peak power is somewhere around 5,500 - 6,500. Probably in the middle. The fuel lag/surge occurs at around 5, and the cam starts pulling at 4,500. Needs to be coaxed to keep reving. Thanks again

If you haev dished pistons, you definetly want to chase compression, i believe that the early E88 would give the highest compression, but they are a primative head (the later ones are better) Personally i would go for the N42, good moden(ish) L series head, with decent compression. Power figures are hard to estimate, what are you using for induction? Is the bottom end standard?

You right its very hard to assume and tell what people want without ever seeing the car. After reading alot ive compared the specs of other peoples cars to mind, and the settings im running, theoretically should be fine, but as i said, i worked out the Main Jets and air correctors from the formula, i havent actually measured them. But i guess reducing the size of the air corrector would be a good start. I do have access to a very good tuning place, but in order to save money and gain some knowledge i thought id attempt it myself. I will give the air correctors a shot as they are not overly expensive. Thanks for all your help, ill see if i can get some results.

My friends hate my spoiler, but it makes my car mine, also where it gets its name Moby....Tell me what you think, and im used to hearing, ugly etc. [/img] Baby Got Back

Thanks Bill, you just condensed two pages of info into one post, i think you deserve a medal for that is there any set guide for how much less i should decrease my air controllers by? say they are 180, should i take them down to 170? 165? 160? Is there a set number that is looked upon as ideal for top end? Its Hard to tell how im running in the midrange, as when the cam is off powerband its chuggy, and not at all smooth (unsure if this means tune the carbs or thats the way of the cam) and once it starts to rev, it gets the surge/stutter maybe around 5-6k. Hard to tell without the tacho. And will replacing these items put the carbs out of tune? Ie, can i just throw on the new Air correctors, and drive it? or will it require a tune? Thanks again

Thanks Bill, With regards to the figures, i havnt measured them i just used the formula (venturi*4 for mains and then +50 for air correctors). I agree everything i need to know is probably in the thread and it is awesome in its details. I understand that new Air corectors give the top power, but thanks for pointing out that i need smaller ones. So if changing the air correctors will give me more smoothness and power delivery up top, and mains will give more throughout, is there any point in changing both, or will i need one or the other? SOrry if this is a stupid question. Thanks heaps

Oh thank God, This thread is straigh from god i put a lumpier cam in over the weekend and noticed that at high RPM it seems to starve for fuel a little, my local Motorsport shop told me i need to replace my main jets and maybe air correction jets to get the most out of it. At a high $$ might i add. So i stumbled on this forum, should save myself some cash hopfully. Im running Triple 45mm webers (im not that technical so please excuse me if i dont have all the tech details, assume they are standard i guess). 32mm Venturis so i guess i have..128 Main Jets and 178 air correctors 272 cam with 318 (cam only) duration L28 with flattops (2.9) Ported and Polished P90 2.5 Exhaust If anyone could give me a rough idea that would be great otherwise, ive printed out this thread and shall sit down with my mechanic friend and we shall work out the details. Also, is there really any advantage to getting larger venturies, as these are quite expensive Now since its starving alittle for fuel up top (well surging is more the word) does this mean i require larger air correctors or main jets? And where can i find the (please forgive me if its a stupid question) emulsion tube size, as from what ive read, changing this has some benifits. Thanks

Wow Thanks for all the input, didnt expect to get such a good resonce. Well i got the cam in anyway, its a 272/318 (cam duration, not sure what the whole duration is with lash pads and tappets). Its noticeibly lumpier, power comes on from about 2.5-god knows what (i cant tell cause i have no tacho, damn MSD ignition and no one knowing how to get the tacho to work). So the results are good, i lost the smooth acceleration and low down power, but it now revs alot harder and the power increase is noticible. My compression is roughly 8.75 (slightly bored out) and im assuming with an N42 the thing would really fly. It seems to starve a little up top (for fuel) but im gonna ring around today and see if i need bigger jets or a new tune for the new cam. (btw they are 45mm chokes) So time will tell if im happy with the setup, and explaining to people that yes..that noise is a good thing, yes...its not meant to be smooth. Thanks for your help guys