e_racer1999
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Posts posted by e_racer1999
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well just remember that the crankshaft rotates twice for every rotation of the crankshaft. so although you might have it at "TDC," it not be the one you're thinking. check and make sure all three of those match up, because your car WILL NOT START if it is 180* out.
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drop the oil pump and rotate the shaft 180*. take of the distributor cap before you do and note the exact direction it points to you can get it to exactly 180*. put some cardboard down, it's messy.
EDIT - before you do, put your engine at TDC, pop the valve cover off (to verify that the cam is at TDC as well, both lobes on the #1 cam will be up), and pop off the dist cap. if the rotor is pointing where it would to fire cyl #1, then something else is the problem.
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that's about right. i don't install myself, but when i had dish network installed we talked to the guy (3rd party company) and he said for our job he made about ~$350 or so and it took him about 7 hours. his company pays per job, not per hour, though.
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Hydrogen peroxide is ok, but it will pull out more than just the blood if the material is colored. That's why most hair bleach for women use hydrogen peroxide as an activator, it reconstitutes the bleach and promotes color stripping as well.Stay away from Hydrogen Peroxide or cleaning products with "OXY" in them it's Peroxide in disguise.
I assume the blood has dried, so chip/flake off as much as possible, then vacuum the area,then mix 1 cup cold water,2 tablespoons ammonia,1 tablespoon or less mild detergent,apply solution to clean towel and aggitate the spots a little,don't scrub ! then blot with another towel or vacuum with wet dry vac, repeat until clean.
i've never had an issue with HP taking out color from any of the clothes i've used it to clean.... however i suppose you are right, since clothes dye is designed to be washed differently than dyes they would use on car seats...
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hydrogen peroxide works a little as well
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just moved out to santee. as soon as we get settled in we'll have to get together and shoot the $#!t
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yes. that is the easiest/best way to do it. i was actually going through this in my head on my way to work. what a coincidence!
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you could always weld in a little cowl under the vent....
looks sikwidit...
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i know on 240s you have to swap a 280z tach for it to work. i swapped an autometer tach in mine, but mine is intermittant under 2 as well.....
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great info... i was reading somewhere around that the valvoline racing oil has ZDDP in it, can't remember where i saw it, but it was Z related.
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glad to hear you got it figured out! are you going to rebuild your switch or get a new one and have it rekeyed?
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how do your wires look? i would get a multimeter and check the resistance on your wires. other than that, i believe this topic has been covered before. do a search and there may be more information that can help you..
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bummer :hahaha
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so ya, when can i move in?
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wait, what is flocking? im confused... and damn, i want a dash like rovdrivers, i love the suede with stiches
it's what birds do
but seriously, it's glare resistant, textured spray
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group buy????
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^totally easier.
if you were local, i have a EM i'd just give you. but with the shipping, you could find one at a PnP for much cheaper
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^not always necessarily true. i don't have access to the rules ATM, but i think that they are here on the site somewhere. you might be able to search and find them. don't know, though
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i agree with what everyone else here; sucks about the car, great news about the people. keep your head up!
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I think the optimas are also gas free and contain no acid..
optimas are gel cell, but if they over charge they do emit hydrogen gas, which is why they are still required to be placed in a box if they are in the passenger compartment for sanctioned racing
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^agreed. only reason i went with a 800 CCA is a combination of the 10.5:1 CR and the fact that the battery is moved way in the back. it's on an L6, but it's more power than necessary.
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odyssey is your simplest choice
EDIT - i have no specs to recommend for you, as in my quest i went with a 800 CCA optima.
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What GPH am I looking for on a L28 with SU's? Here are a couple others with less flow:
30 GPH @ 4psi: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRT%2DP60504&N=700+115&autoview=sku
30 GPH @ 6 psi: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRT%2DP60430&N=700+115&autoview=sku
Im not too worried about a lot of return fuel, especially if I will be using this to drive a surge tank down the road.
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as was just mentioned, 30 GPH should be sufficient and not overkill. but i'm mostly talking out of my @$$ on flow rates.
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if you plan on doing it yourself, first you'll have to remove the intake manifold (and all things that will prevent the mani from coming off) by removint the top 6 bolts and the nuts from the remaining studs. then remove the rest of the bolts on the studs at the exhaust manifold. the fun part will be cutting the exhaust and welding on a new flange to bolt onto the header (unless you plan on welding straight to the pipe), since the header is going to be considerably longer than the stock exhaust manifold. plan long and expect it to take a weekend. so basically, if you don't know exactly what you're doing and don't have access to a welder, it will be much faster to get it done professionally.
Rebuilt Engine Won't Start....
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
hrm.... have you verified that you are getting fuel and spark?