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e_racer1999

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Posts posted by e_racer1999

  1. Hmmm I don't know that seems a bit too pricey... A friend I have on myspace does engine swaps he will do an sr20det swap for my 280z and charge 2,500 he supplies the motor he gets everything done within 6 hours or he discounts 50 dollars. Cool huh? For a 240sx Sr20det he charges 2,300 within the 6 hour range.:P

     

    holy crap! post up contact info ON THE REALS

  2. I always kind of liked this idea,minus the paint job of course.

     

    http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yz/projectorlights.html[url=http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yz/projectorlights.html][/url]

     

    those flames are nicely done!

     

    i've been thinking of retro-ing an HID setup. like was mentioned before, sealing them is the hard part. what about those rubber caps that go over newer cars' bulb areas? finding one that would seal that area shouldn't be too difficult. also, the biggest part would be the ballasts (unless it's going to be a bi-xenon design... meaning that the bulb area would be pretty large for bi-xenon, too) and the ballast could be sealed separately.

  3. that is freakin lame. seriously. that guy should be shot. that was a nice car too. oh well, every let down is an opportunity to get something better!

     

    but ya, something like that happened with me with a 240 w/ trips, too. lame

     

    if you don't get your depoist back, post up the address....

  4. well, i've been looking at either an Optima or an Odyssey for my Z. I'm going to be running a 10.5 CR on an L28. I plan on relocating to behind the pass. seat.

     

    I've read about 6 threads on the subject of batteries and boxes, but it's time for some definitive answers. I've heard a little this, a little that, etc.

     

    My car is going to be a street/SCCA car. I have found the rules for NHRA that say that all batteries must be separate from the driver's compartment.

     

    Anyone have any rules or experience with SCCA? Do dry cell and gel cell batteries need to be in a SEALED box? does it need to be vented?

     

    Another Q, would this one from Summit do the job? It is not seald and not externally vented.

     

    http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG1200A&N=700+400304+307185+115&autoview=sku

    sum-g1200a.jpg

     

    any other recommendations? I'm on kind of a tight budget (spening 1050 at MSA on sunday to get the car ready to run)

  5. never happened to me.

     

    but i know that if the levels are too high in your SUs the oil will come out. i would try with ATF simply for the reason you stated, then fill 'er back up with 10W30 once you figure out the problem!

  6. While I respect the amount of work in it, I also am not really a fan. It just doesn't seem to flow very well IMO, good work just needs to be refined for that price tag.

     

    Tyson

     

    ya, after looking at it more, it looks like a pretty cool car if it was made in the mid-90s. but for a car that needs to stand up to the fit-n-finish of modern days, it's a bit too 50s looking. they should have smoothed it out more, like the new mustang and new camaro. if the headlights were less circle and more oval and the front was squashed a bit, it would be a lot better

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