datzun240

On my L28ET swap on my 240z, I'm using MSnS with the MSD box and the 82-83 dizzy. For some strange reason I am unable to get spark anymore, not anywhere along the line. I tested my coil and my MSD box and both are in working condition. I figured it might be my distributor, I borrowed a working dizzy and hooked it up, no dice. The weird thing about this situation is that the only time I'm able to get any spark is from the coil to the wire going to the dizzy is unplugged and held to a ground, BUT only under one circumstance. It will only spark ONCE when the key is initially put into the on position. After that, no sparks at all. Has anyone heard, experienced or has any idea why I am only able to get a spark at when putting the key into the on position and at no other time? It is important to note that not long ago (within the past two weeks) I was able to get the car to start and run. Then a couple days later I tried to start it and it wasn't idling very well and it would die out on me. I thought it was because of fouled up plugs. Changed those out and same result, no start. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance for any information and or insight into my current situation.

I looked around and found a number of threads discussing ways to check N/A distributors but none about the turbo one on the L28ET. I was wondering if anyone knew how to test the CAS inside the turbo distributor because mine could be broken, and am looking to either pinpoint this as the cause or rule it out after testing. I am in the middle of troubleshooting my ignition because I am unable to produce a spark. Important to note that nothing in my setup has changed from when I had spark and I have verified that my MSD box and coil are good. thanks in advance for any information.

Hand turning the Dizzy still not getting any spark to the plugs. Does anyone know a quick way to test the distributor at home? Thanks in advance for the help.

msd coil, blaster 2 or something along those lines. I'm going to hand test the dizzy today and just start working my way down the line. thanks again for all the help thus far everyone.

My setup with the MSD box is good. I checked and rechecked it and tested out the MSD box using the white wire. I attached screen shots of my settings. I'm going to pull the dizzy tomorrow and try to get a spark manually. I'll better explain the mysterious arc from the coil wire to a ground. I was trying to see if I could get a spark from the coil wire to a ground and so I put it near the ground and even before I crank the engine over (just putting the car into the ON position) there is a single spark that jumps. But when I crank the car over, nothing. It only happens when I first put the car into the on position. Anyone have any idea what that means? thanks in advance again and for all the input.

Megatune shows everything is ok thus far. Checked my settings for fuel and spark, nothing out of the ordinary. Still trying to figure out what is going on.

Thanks, I'll check that out this afternoon. Thanks again for all the input. Does anyone have any idea about the arc when putting the car into the on position but no arc while cranking? Thanks again in advance for any information.

Car was running well at a certain point before I stopped driving it for awhile. I am not getting any spark when I pull the wire from the dizzy to the coil and try to arc it while cranking. The weird thing is that while it won't arc while cranking, when I initially switch the car into the on position, it will arc. Anyone have any ideas about that. Thanks for the response above, I double checked that tonight and its setup as you said. Thanks again for the help and thanks in advance for any additional insight.

I setup my MSnS awhile ago and then I was unable to drive my car for awhile. I got my car to start and run but then randomly the other day it wouldn't start. I'm not getting any spark from the coil to the dizzy and I'm trying to narrow down what is wrong. I can't remember for the life of me if I'm supposed to have 12V at the coil when using an MSD 6A box. I'm running the internal CAS on an L28ET and have verified that my MSD box is working. My injectors are firing and I think the problem is related to my CAS. Does anyone know if I'm supposed to have 12V at the coil when using a MSD 6A? Thanks in advance for any information.

I hope I put this thread in the right forum. I decided to relocate my air filter outside of the engine bay as a cold air intake (CAI). I relocated the air filter on the driver side front right next to my front mount intercooler. My only concern is that on my grill (not stock 240Z grill), the area that covers the intake filter is a solid piece instead of having slats or openings to allow air directly to the filter. Would this have any significant impact on the amount of air that the filter is able to breathe? I have to decide if I should cut open that entire area that is covering up the filter (look a little less nice) or just leave it as is. Any relevant information is welcome. Thanks in advance. The first picture is showing the typical air filter relocation spot. The second picture is displaying the grill and how the section highlighted in blue is not slotted, but instead solid.

I have been searching and reading the many threads regarding the side mirrors that are aftermarket or OEM on certain vehicles that will work with the Z cars. I wanted to know if there is a list of mirrors that will work and will be an easy install on the Z. I was looking to get a pair of APR CF mirrors at one point, but I can't get a straight answer from the companies selling them or the manufacturer about their universal fit mirrors working with the 240Z. I currently have aftermarket mirrors on my 240 and I wanted to replace them for when I get my new paint job. Any help would be appreciated, I'd prefer to note get chrome or nickel plated mirrors. My biggest concern is if the way that the mirrors are mounted will or will not cover the existing area that is used to mount Thanks in advance.

I wanted to ask here before I start asking around at shops for an individual who does automotive body repair and painting on the side at their home. I need some body filler work done on my 1972 240Z and I want to get the entire car painted. If anyone knows of anyone that does this type of work I would really appreciate any info or contact info. Thanks in advance.

are you serious?

LOL... OWND

Yea I just checked a few parts houses, and its all the same deal. And i did some research myself and had them cross reference part numbers and you're right. So only the years stated above are the same, the other part numbers are different. Just thought i might check to see if they were the same, if so it would save everyone a lot of money if they could be purchased under a different year and model. But no such luck.

I was wondering if the wheel bearings vary from year to year. B/c when i saw in this thread, whoever wrote it, said the wheel bearings were 15-20 dollars and when i ask @ the parts store for wheel bearings for my 72 240z, the cheapest they can find is 40 for the outer and 25 for the inner, which is a pretty significant variation in price. Even online, prices aren't much better, maybe 2-3 dollars difference. I only ask if they are the same b/c if you look up wheel bearings for an 80s 280zx, they are 20 dollars cheaper, just wondering if anyone knew of a way to tell if they were interchangeable. hope to hear from someone. david

Yea, they would be quieter in some corners depending on which side went bad b/c the load on them would be different. I was thinking about why one side would be easier to spin possibly b/c one side is greased still (the quiet side) and the other side is bone dry, so its just metal on metal w/ less friction so it would spin a lot easier than the one packed w/ grease. Still trying to figure out whats going on. thanks for the response though

Today i tried to figure out where the sounds were coming from in the rear. Below is what I did in order to try to narrow down what it was: I first removed the halfshaft from each side so that I could isolate the wheel bearings as a possible cause of the sound. On the driver side i could spin the hub w/o any problem, but there was a metallic drag sound coming from it (i had the drum off of course). It was a metal on metal sound, but it wasn't dragging. On the passenger side, it was more difficult to spin the hub, but there was no sound coming from it @ all. I put everything back together and then put the tires back on. I forgot to mention that prior to this I made sure all my u joints were cool from the driveshaft all the way back the diff. I also checked my fluid lvl in the differential. Next I had the rear end up in the air and had my helper get the rear tires moving from inside the car by going through a few gears. The first thing i noticed right off the bat was that the driver side tire was wobbling like no other (side that is easier to spin, but making metallic drag sound). However, i failed to recreate the sound that im hearing in the car. I did that a few times and then made sure the wheel was torque'd down properly and then went to have that one tire checked for balancing issues. Everything checked out. When i took the car out for another drive after I checked everything, have narrowed the sound to be coming on about 30-40mph and it doesn't matter what gear I'm in. Progressively gets louder as the speed increases and the sound decreases as the car is on decel. The only conclusion I have come to is that my wheel bearings on the driverside maybe shot, but as it will take a few days to get the parts, I will have to wait. But I was wondering if a worn wheel bearing make it easier or harder to turn the hub? Because as I stated above, the side that was easier to spin was making the noise and the harder one to spin was making no noise @ all. Just wondering what people thought of this, and hoped someone would chime in w/ their own personal experience, not the "my brother's friend's grandfather's car... " story. But Thanks in advance for reading the long post and hope to hear from anyone. 72 240z r200 diff w/ urethane on mustache bar

Yea... i just shorted my bumpstops and the front is 100% better now. I shorterned the rears as well, but it seems thats not gonna cut it for the rears. I didn't think about shortening them until i talked to a buddy of mine, who made the same mistake as you stated above and as i just experienced. The rears are probably still hitting the bumpstops, so i'll have to swap a 10" spring in the rear, or possibly section the strut. thanks for all the input.

Ok. So i took the Z out and i wrapped up some zip ties on equal distances on the coils of the springs. I took it out on the worst quality road i could find. Drove it up and down that street for about 10 mins or so and then took it around on the expressway. So I got back and checked the zip ties on the spring itself. There were no marks or scratches or signs of them touching @ all. All of them were good on all the corners. The zip tie wrapped @ the bottom of the strut shaft was @ the top though right underneathe the bumpstop. So there is where the problem is. LOL. That @ least narrows things down, but my options are limited. Besides sectioning out the strut housing, does anyone else have any ideas? thanks for the input.

Yea that what I will be attemping this AM as soon as I get myself awake. Someone above also suggested the same thing. Im going to go ahead and take some pictures to better display what is going on. I have a few ideas of how to remedy the problem, but will put them up for question after I do a few things here. thanks for all the suggestions, will update soon.

I didn't shorten my strut housings. I did the basic remove the lower perch and use the stock weld. I am using the energy suspension bump stops. Yea after driving around about 75% of the roads feel ok, the other 25% of the time it doesn't feel ok. Its not to the point where i can't take it any more. Im gonna check tomorrow to see if i am coil binding. thanks for the suggestions.

Yea... after awhile i figured out what you were saying. But shocks already are not part of the equation ne more. Right now I have to check tomorrow and see if im getting coil bind in a few ways. And if so, i mite have to do some swapping of springs.

oh ok. I will check for that. Thanks for the input. Does anyone else have any other ideas? thanks in advance all.