savageskaterkid
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Posts posted by savageskaterkid
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I mean, you can't go too big, gotta measure the ports first, I don't remember what they are, anything bigger is just overkill and so much harder to make.
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I know why...it a HONDA....LOL
That statement doesn't describe it at all, honda's are reliable, and thats really all they have going for them.
Now if I said, why is my honda slow, then that would be the PERFECT answer. haha
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1 and 5/8 sounds good to me. Although I haven't measured the stock one before.
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My wife's civic has the EXACT same problem on occasion. I found out it CONSISTANTLY burns plug wire boots right at the seam between the long plastic piece, and the rubber end. The arc then shorts to ground. Its' gone through 3 sets of wires within 2 years. Same problem every time! If I wrap the seam with a couple of layers of electrical tape, it fixes it for a while, but it eventually arcs through it.
I'm definitly gonna look into this
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hmmmmm, I wonder if they sell it straight out. I saw some other ones, but not that paticular one.
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Alright, the self contained dizzy has a tendency to flat out fail. I believe it is due to high heat for too long. The price is not toooo bad to just repalce the whole dizzy, even if that is not the problem it will be soon enough.
Thats what I'm thinkin, but if there is another problem, I'd rather fix it first, before buying the dizzy, and having the same problem that may have been a simple fix.
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what BOV are you guys looking at? Am I looking at the wrong thing? It appears to be not much more then a pipe with a wastegate actuator look to it.
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I can't seem to find it, all there kits come with a different valve. Anybody know???
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think it may have advanced a bit? I checked the timing, but I was having problems understanding the marks, its not cut and dry like a nissan. Like my sentra and the SR's have each mark is 5*, but there is 2 arrows on the honda, idk which I actually use to time it, none of the arrows even point to a mark on the pulley.
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I did check them recently, they looked good, and that they were firing consistantly between cylinders. The wires are some random off brand. I bought the car off a buddy, and he said he replaced plugs, cap, rotor, wires and such a few thousand miles ago. He said he never had a misfire, but when he drives it tends to live at upper RPM's. Its been missing more lately at low RPM's, not sure whats going on. Maybe its not enough fire power to keep it going? And when I punch it, it gives some more power to light the mix?
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Posting what vid you speak of would help.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Sick-240Z-with-a-supercharged-small-block_8276.htm
I thought Darius was a big giveaway, haven't met a Z guy who hasn't seen the video before.
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anybody know, it seems kinda simple, but you can actually see it working, and its fairly diffrent from all the other BOV's
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More pressure would be better for the nitrous, I am just not sure at what rate the regulator for the carbs raises fuel pressure in proportion to boost.
1psi of fuel, for every psi of air
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I believe it was in MAXIMUM BOOST that they won't over wastegates, I can't find the book, so don't quote me. But if you run a BIG turbo at Low boost, you want a big WG, if you run a small turbo at high boost, you use a small wastegate, if you run a big turbo at high boost, you use a small wastegate. Does that seem right? V-band does seem the way to go now though, specially for ease of removal.
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I screwed up, I could of swore that I put this thing in the trouble shooting forum. Move it if you need to.
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I know that this isn't Z car related, but I have a 92 civic thats been having problems, and I wanna figure them out before I'm stranded. I know that the older civics have dizzy problems, and I can't seem to find symptoms. The car will misfire under light load, but if I punch it, it'll clear up, and its always right after a shift. Anybody know the symptoms of the honda dizzy failure?
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Kinda random, but I've seen the video quite a few times, what BOV is that, I kinda like it.
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You are actually better off having more than 5-7 psi as it promotes better fuel atomization.
Not sure exactly what pump I'm gonna use yet, but most fuel injection pumps run 40psi+, correct? More pressure would be better for the carbs?
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The only other way to do it is, by using 3 plates, though I'm sure there are no off the shelf plate systems for the Mikunis.
Just because you want the nitrous to turn and flow into the first 2 carbs, doesn't mean that it will.
I might build a bolt-on fogger plate for the mikuni's here soon then.
Its not what I want it to do, its what I need it to do. What I'm thinking is the fact that with pressure, it should help to move the mixture though the carbs. The box has an internal baffle to ensure that it equals out.
The safest way to run wet nitrous is to have a seperate fuel pump, regulator and lines feeding the fuel solenoid. Using a return style regulator with the nitrous is good idea as it ensures that a lean condition is not created from fuel boiling out of the fuel line before the solenoid is activated.This is especially true with a non crossflow turbo motor.If I had a return style regulator that ensured the correct pressure for the motor, but still running a constant fuel pressure for the spray, would this suffice for something like a 100hp increase?
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The reason I wonder about the fuel system, is the fact that the pressure would always be changing from the regulator. I'm also not sure if the regulator is a return style either. Maybe Tony D can chime in on this.
The airbox isn't a normal airbox, its designed with baffles to feed boost to all cylinders fairly equally, and its also sealed. I'm just not sure if I'm gonna be spraying into the right place. Without giving too much away, the setup is a blow-through triple mikuni setup. If I was to spray into the piping right before the airbox(which would send it to all cylinders fairly equal) Mind you all this is under boost, going through the carbs too. Would I have alot of problems, or is it a recipe for disaster?
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If this isn't done yet, send me a PM
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A buddy did an N/a-t MK3 supra. He was able to use the 7MGTE wiring, and electronics, tweaked to fit, and used a stand-alone ECU called stinger from austrailia. If you plan to do some boltons the GTE would easily be more expensive. Cost of motor is way high. Then you plan on doing the same upgrades that you did on the GE, which is cheaper. Such as putting the header, turbo, downpipe, stand alone, injectors.....ect, then really all your using is the basic longblock, not even the full motor. But I guess if you get a GTE you could sell some parts off to make a bit back.
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I am gonna be running triple mikuni 40's on my L28 setup, and was looking at spraying. I have a few questions that maybe somebody could answer. I have a wet shot kit already, and was wondering howto hook it up. I don't really like the idea of drilling and tapping 6 holes into the intake and having to jet them all the same, and have a bunch of lines and such running everywhere. Its gonna be more of a hidden setup, and with one line, its easy to hide. 6 isn't so easy to hide. I know your supposed to run the spray after the carbs, but what would happen if I sprayed before the carbs? I have an airbox that I can spray into, would it work? Am I asking for trouble?
I will be running a fuel injection fuel pump on the application, with a regulator holding the correct fuel pressure for the carbs. I read on here that nitrous doesn't like fuel pressure below 7psi, but I'd be running around 3.5psi most of the time. What do I do about this?
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I'm not sure on primaries and such, but most people are running T3s but they said they could change flanges if possible. I doubt anyone is gonna run a T25 based turbo. I really like that design that you posted, with the waste flange down. I have a stock piece with the flange up, and it won't clear my current setup. I like the idea of close to stock area, that way exhausts could be tweaked to fit, instead of a whole new dp and such.
This comes to mind, only a header based design instead http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108785
Its got the wastegate fairly close to the outlet where it needs to be. It aims down, where a dump pipe can easily be routed back into the exhaust without having to take tight turns, or you can just do a straight dump tube going straight down.
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Honda problems
in Non Tech Board
Posted
thats why I like mine, 45mpg ftw