buZy
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Posts posted by buZy
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Blown77Z, Yes I had the same issues when re-setting DS angles in my car with updated larger ujoints. The previous owner poorly installed a front facing 280 rear bar in an early 240z?! Go figure. So needless to say I cut it out and eventually went with a rear facing bar. If your DS angles are golden, go with a rear mounted bar. Or is it possible to shim a 280 bar to get some clearance? I am not familar with the 280 frame mountings.
Hi Dale, You might be missing more from no rear bar. I was running no bar too for a long time and handling was fine. Installed one later and the high speed straight line stability 100 plus was the huge unexpected improvement! The only thing with rear bar is the finned cover which to me is not worth extra effort to run on the street.
Disclaimer, I'm not an expert lol.
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No, but it's great information to fit unique mounting options. Thanks dr hunt!
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Nice solution!!!!
This was the last time that I will ever break an side axle or side axle U joint in my car...making some changes over the winter I think this will solve the problem
fills the wheel well alittle better too...
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Very Nice Indeed!!!!
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How about the rack mounting isolators? Any movement there?
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Wow Dave, Great Car and Video!
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That's a good point. The fenderwell is not flat all the way across, it is an arch shape and heads down on the outside to meet up with the stock fender lip. If you have wheels that fill up the fenderwells and have them that close to being tucked, you'll probably be hitting them when the suspension compresses.
So if one sections the struts, it is possible with a tire narrow enough to clear the fender lips, the tire could bottom inside the fenderwells/uinbody structure before hitting the strut bump stops???
In essence typical 1 to 1.8 inch sectioning in most cases requires fender flares to obtain some more gained travel from sectioning?
I kind of thought that was a possible situation on my ride when lowering 1.25 inches. When I checked the full suspension travel there was not much room left in my opinion so I did not section. To me it seemed pointless. Not to mention having the tires kill the front fender lips at full turn/full bottoming. A common very possible curb situation of street driving.
All 17X7 4.5 BS, 225/45/17, Non sectioned, coilovers, early Z, DP biscut plates, no flares.
Many factors....
Forget everything I said, I am just thinking out loud, Sorry to hi-jack the thread. Back to your local broadcast station...
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Mounted mine directly centered behind the m-bar and ran the line up the tunnel in the oem location which saves it from most road debris. But if the driveshaft, trans, clutch or flywheel ever explodes it's a petro ball of fire for me indeed. Remember seeing a hybridz member a few years ago run the fuel and brake lines inside updated frame rails. To what success I do not know.
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I'm stumped with what to do with this space it's between the cage rear strut and rear cross bars access is not the easiest but I want my zx to look show car-ish when it is done. any suggestions?
A small simple tool box. Custom sized mounted and intergrated into your interior finishings. And it would be cool as hell! In the real world of driving a heavily reengineered hybridz on the street, having just a few simple tools in a kit can really be helpfull.
How many times have we all been stuck on the road kicking ourselves saying "Gosh, if I only had a pair of pliers and screwdriver".
And some kind of fire bottle system similar to this.
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I like the little rear facing scoops on the hood.
I like them too.
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When possible, fastening any freestanding shelf to a wall increases its overall strength dramatically.
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WOW! Now that is truly all Hybrid Z!
I bet wheelies are fun in that one! Very Cool!
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The word frivolous comes to mind.
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Noodling. Now that is real fishing! Man versus beast.
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I agree. It makes sence your ride overheats. It is possessed by SATAN!
Read your cars story a few years back. Very cool! Very killer ride! 666! YES!
Seriously I hope find the a way to cool things down. Try draining and replacing your system with using holy water.... You never know it just might work.
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Just take a screen shot.
How do you do that exactly?
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If you read closer you would see it is also available in carbon fiber.
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We used brush-on Rustoleum Flat Black at your local hardware store.
Looks great. Durable. Functional. Very low cost. Easy to clean and touch up maintenance.
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You can use an LS1 tranny, but I think you need the Weir kit
That is what we did. Bob Weir has tremendous product knowledge, high quality pieces, support and will answer all your clutch related questions. Such great support is well worth the cost down the road.
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That is so sad. He will be missed.
Rear 240sx disk conversion pics
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Nice work Gabe!