FEnatic

I have the early model pans, but a 75 280, The only difference is the frame rail depth? Should I just sell these and get some for a 280?

Can someone tell me the difference between the 70-74 1/2 and the 74 1/2-78 floor pans? Will the early pans fit late models? Thanks

I found an E31 on a car in the junkyard and was wondering if I should pull it to sell? Do these have any value over the E88's? Thanks

I found a site that has the colors I am talking about, it is either the 510 blue or the 305 light blue. One of my parts doors has it on it. The site is http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/240bluemet.jpg&imgrefurl=http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/&h=480&w=640&sz=145&tbnid=chsld6rxaNAJ:&tbnh=101&tbnw=135&hl=en&start=1&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dblue%2Bmetallic%2Bdatsun%2Bz%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official_s%26sa%3DG They even list a PPG part number, I'll have to take a piece of paint chip to the paint store to compare.

I'm looking to repaint my Z and need some info on colors. I am thinking of the factory light blue color Datsun had, can I just go to my supply store and tell them, or would they not have the codes. Anyone out there know the code for it? Wish i had a picture of someones to show you. Thanks for any help

what about the CT26 units? I've read some of the posts on here about them, some seem good, others say too small. What year Supras' did these come on?

I know this is off topic, but you guys know your turbos. I figured out my cfm rates and went through some compressor maps, the T3 60 trim seems to be right in the sweet spot for this engine running two of them. I at first thought that these were too small for a big block, could I be wrong? Was originally thinking twin To4E 46's , these also are right in the sweet spot. What do you guys think of these two?

most of what I've seen is modifying an aftermarket high flow pump, supposedly it's super cheap to do. Just can't find anywhere on HOW to do it.

OK, I tried the search for awhile and found some interesting stuff, but, to use a mechanical fuel pump in a boost situation you need to raise the pressure. Is this a matter of using a high pressure mechanical pump with a boost sensing, rising rate regulator, or I've heard that a mechanical pump can be modified to increase pressure depending on boost? Where can I find out about this, I've googled for awhile too but not many definite answwers. I want to twin turbo a V8 Ford I've got, but keep the carbs on. I know about the carb mods too. Any help here is appreciated. Thanks

You gotta be kidding me! I'm right next door and I don't hear about this! I work in Syracuse. Do they have it every year? At the fair grounds or somewhere else? Let me know guys, I'll be there next year!

Where is the convention in NY? I am in the Utica area.

I am in the middle of my body work, and I thought I'd try something. I'm glad most of the responses are positive. The car is going to be that light blue color overall. Once I get a turbo setup I'll paint the intercooler with this, but only the red color.

I did the swap in my 75, followed the wiring instructions from the atlantic z site, but the blue wire that he says goes to the tach and ecu is supposed to be negative. With this wire hooked up, car will not run, no spark. I assumed it was grounding out somewhere, so I just unhooked it. Runs great now, but no tach. Question is, could the tach from my 75 be a positive ground or is there an inline resistor somewhere that is grounding it out?

After the post about paint affecting the intercooler, I decided to try something different. I am going to run with no bumpers or grill, so it should be just visible. What do you guys think?

I bet the ball bearings that work the vacuum advance fell out along with the plastic cage that holds them inplace. This is fairly common on these dist. You'll have to pull apart the dist. to check it out. Use this website as a guide http://www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/distributor/distribase.html Actually I like the mechanical advance on mine. If you want to limit or cancel the mech advance, you have to close up the slots that the two pins move in. You can see them in the first pic of yours. Hope this helps.

You have any pics of the old Skyline? I used to run an 81 turbo GT-ES, and an 85 2 door. I loved the looks of the 2 doors Skylines. My favorite years for them 81-85!

He is actually replacing on L20ET motor. These had cams with smaller specs than the L28E motor. On our L20Et motors we would swap in the L28E cam. I am not sure how much different the L28ET is compared to the L28E. Actuaaly found this on another site. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

When you swap over, use the L28E cam in the turbo setup. It has better specs compared to the L20ET cam. We would swap these out in our old Skylines when I was in Japan.

Tell Derek to hang in there. The first few days of Basic are a little intimidating! But when he gets to Japan or Europe, he will ove it. I was in Japan for 2 years and would still go back if I could. Germany is great too. Good luck to him, what is his AFSC going to be?

thanks for all of the GREAT responses. This is my first L rebuild and I am going to tune it in slowly for sure. I knew using the stock cam was going to hold me back, but till I replace it this will get my tuning skills moved up a few notches.

I thought the mech advance on those dist. was only 17deg. I'll try running it without the vacuum advance hooked up and see how she runs. Back to my question about total, if this dist. only has 17 total mech advance, then about 10 at the crank should keep me to about 27 total right?

OH MAN, I love the old Y-blocks! I run a 292 in my 60 Galaxie, These are much overlooked motors in my opinion. With a little work a good 292 or 312 will make Great HP. The 312 had a longer stroke than the 292, slightly bigger bore. the crank journals can be turned down to fit a 292 block and is the 292 block is much stronger. These engines have a lot of metal in them too, they can be bored up to .120 with no problem. In the day these were a real SBC eater. Check out this website for some great info. http://www.ford-y-block.com/yblockpage.htm

Z-ya, I also have a E12-80 ZX dist. to hook up to her, it has the 8.5 arms on it. If this set up has 17deg of mech. advance total, then I could only run about 8-10 deg at the crank? I don't mind running 93 oct. it's not a daily driver, just some fun.

So, with that order, the single throat SU couldn't fire on side by side cylinders?

Sounds good, I'll just get her running and tune in from there. Thanks for the responses!