envmyz

Answered my own question...lol Got the LED17 spark output running great. Recomend it to anyone that is able to solder, and wants to gain FIDLE again. Glad that I was able to free up my FIDLE, engine was idling real low (550) when i would first start it up when it was cold. After about 100F it would then idle at it's normal 750. So what I would do was unplug a vacuum line and it would then idle 1000 rpm at cold start. Let it idle, then have to plug the line agian (pain in the ***) So I got to thinking, I was able to run a 12V NC soleniod (1/4" inlet/outlet) used for fluid or inhert gas to create a fast idle valve, works great, and was only 18 bucks. The next project is to get my AC clutch wire to trigger the valve so when I turn the AC on it idles where it should. **EDIT For anyone that is going to do LED17 output on there Z, make sure you recalibrate your TPS, the resistance changes since you are no longer drawing current from the TPS VREF wire anyone...

Installing MS'n'S_Extra on my car seemed like it took forever, had to wait on resistors (backordered...damnit) did a little bit everyday, re-reading install guide and seemed like every post on msefi.com... took about 5 days..lol One week later I did my brothers 280Z with the 82ET in it, started at 10pm worked till 2 am, came back at 10am and had the car going by 9pm. I'd say 90% of the work I did myself (my brother installed the fuel rail injectors, and a little wiring) so in 15 hours it was all done, then a few the next to put back stuff, wire loom ect..

Is anyone running spark output from LED17? I'd like to free up my FIDLE and run a IAC. The conversion seems simple enough . Solder 1k resistor between the (-)leg of D17 and the right hand end of R23 (+5v). Run a length of wire from the (-) leg over to X11. . Connect DB37 pin 25 (X11) ok, so is the 1K resistor going to be the same thing I had when tapping into the vref? (like the diagram in moby's install guide) So in other words, is the right side of r23 (+5v) actually the VREF? FIDLE output was a ground, right?... so does the circuit above create a ground also? Reason for asking was because I thought that I read somewhere that the spark output should be inverted. Thanks for any help Chris MSnS-Extra21_U3

allright, thanks for all that helped. I will be trying a few of the sugestions, at least I know it's not ONLY my car that is doing it...lol

Hello, I'm having some problems with my MS (or could be engine) after driving the car for a while, turning it off, then starting it within 1/2 hour. It wont idle, and rev's worth a crap, sounds like it's missing, the whole nine yards. After I tach it out through first gear, it runs great like normal. Anyone else having this problem? I already set the startup enrichment to 25 from 50 and that didn't help. running extra_21, MT 358 Thanks Chris

Some confusion on how to hook the X2 output to a relay Can someone explain this schematic to me? Only getting 5v out of it (as a ground), is X2 a ground or POS?

Skyline GTR 440CC injectors work really well too...just dropped right in, using a JSK fuel rail.

I would recomend using hyperterminal to reload the firmware, I had some problems getting it to "seem" like it was working, but after I did a "wipe" and sent the new firmware to it, everything came up. Make sure that you are using a compatible version of MT. http://not2fast.wryday.com/megasquirt/ is a good site for all versions of firmware and software. Let us know if you need instructions for reloading the firmware.

mobythevan's current Extra021u map, with the req. fuel bumped up a little(6.9ms to 7.3 ms) do to smaller injectors (440cc instead of 450cc) and a larger turbo. Only running 10 psi now, no signs of pinging yet.

Haven't posted here alot, just done alot of reading.. Got my MS'n'S extra going today, fired up with no problems. Just wanted to say thanks to Moby for the great install guide, couldn't have done it without ya man!! Setup is as follows 1983 280ZX-T L28ET Megasquirt'N'Spark_Extra021u --Triggered by CAS Dizzy --GM 4PIN HEI --GM IAT & CLT Skyline 440cc Low Impedence Injectors JSK Billet Fuel Rail Kirban Billet FPR (30-100psi) JSK 60mm TB adapter 240SX 60mm TB T3/T4 Garret 50/63 trim GReddy ProfecA EBC HKS SQV Blow Off Valve GReddy Turbo Timer Defi Link EGT with RCU 03 NPR Intercooler 19.5x14.5x2 -- 2 3/4 inlet and outlet Once again, thanks for all that made it easy. Chris

Well I know that I'm at full boost (12) at 3200, so I would say yeah I'm probally at 5 psi at lower rpms. 50/63 trim also. t3/t4

somehow they managed to make the cars slower than stock?? They were running 17s the whole time? Come one guys, don't they run like 15 something stock?

closest thing I could find, hope this helps somewhat

I'd take the rims on 90% of those cars...

Where are you planning on putting the air flow meter? Or are you going to run Megasquirt or SDS?

haha, that was cool. They guy in the blue was using his turn signals still Like it matters at that speed..

How much was the FMU??? Over 200 right, well you can get a AIC the can control 4 injectors, plenty of fuel for around 300. And you wont run rich at idle, there is no problems with high RPM problems (like when on the highway, you wouldn't want the RPM switch dumping extra fuel if you are not boosting all the way) It's better on your stock fuel pump and lines. The nice thing about good AIC is that you can set it to come on, only when over a certain RPM and Lbs of boost. My brother has his set for when it hits 11PSI it automaticly fires up the two sub injectors to boost all the way to 16 PSI. This is great, because when he is running anything under 11 PSI, it's just stock ( idles great, runs great, never runs to rich) This is all my opinion, if I was smart and could figure out MSnS I would use it in a heart beat. I've just never been a big fan of FMUs.

I've got a huge IC, that's not the problem. Now that you mentioned it, I'm not sucking air from outside the engine bay, I think that my AFM is sitting right in front of the radiator, suppose that could be causeing leaning out, or I guess maybe I am reaching the limits of the stock ecu. I suppose that I should hook up the Rebic AIC and start dumping some more fuel in there

Sorry, I thought it was lower than 90, but I didn't know. I'm running stock ECU. Pretty much my question is, is there more fuel at WOT when the engine is cold than warm, or is it the same amount?

Running a l28et here and I've heard from various people that my injectors run at 90% duty? Does that seem right, anyways what is the duty during a cold start? The reason that I am asking is because I can run 12 psi without pinging with the engine somewhat cold. After it warms all the way up I start to ping slightly. If I can rig up an interupt for the engine block temp sensor, at WOT it would think the engine is cold adding more fuel? Or are the engine spraying the same amount of fuel WOT wether or no it's warm or cold? Thanks Chris Cook

Thanks, I just got the turbo engine installed about 2 months ago. The engine had 89K on it. The original engine has 56K on it. I got this car from a doctor around my area. He baught it new back in 83, never seen winter The engine runs great, especially for the 300 bucks I payed for it The NPRs fit rather nice in the zxs. That is only half of the IC in the picture. I'm currently in the process in getting more fuel to it, and boosting more than 12.

Hello All, I'm new here, don't have a pic of me and my car, just my car Chris