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Everything posted by Apollyon12
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Set of SK's http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101293-triple-sk-racing-carb-setup/page__p__949233__hl__sk__fromsearch__1#entry949233
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After a little more research I see that my price is a little high. I am willing to go $1300 obo http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101293-triple-sk-racing-carb-setup/page__p__949233__hl__sk__fromsearch__1#entry949233
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I have this set for sale. Price is negotiable. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101293-triple-sk-racing-carb-setup/
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That pic on ClassicZCars looks exactly like mine. Unfortunately, I just took the time to pull it out of the car. Apparently, whenever I checked for a 5th gear, I was sliding back into fourth because the tranny was rocking around due to the lack of motor. So I have an early 4 speed out of the early '71 and a late 4 speed in my late '71.
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I think I made a mistake. When I looked at the transmission in my parts car orginally, someone had told me that if it has a removeable bellhousing it's a T5. I took their word for it and didn't research it any more. When I looked at the tranny, I could see the bolts inside the bellhousing holding it to the rest of the tranny. It's kinda hard to see in the pic, but they are there. But this is DEFINITLY not a T5. The shifter is wrong, it's the same design as the one in my 4-speed. It does have two ears down by the shifter, but doesn't look like all the other pics of 5-speeds I have seen. I am going to see if I can find some markings or numbers tomorrow when it isn't raining, but I can't see any when I look down from the engine bay.
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It sure looks like that could be DIY'd if you had a little skill. It didn't look $150 complicated to me. But I would have to take another look at how it might work before completely knocking it.
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I though I saw someone say that they where not going to use a replacement pin but use threaded rod instead. I think I see a few problems with this, but I am interested to know what other people think.
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Wait, I think I was compairing the wrong ones. What you where saying is that the T5 and the 4-speed ARE very close to each other, but that the '80 5-speed was significantly different. 4-speed 1) 3.549 2) 2.197 3) 1.420 4) 1.000 '80 5-speed 1) 3.062 (15.9% lower - 1272rpm difference) 2) 1.858 (18.2% lower - 1456rpm difference) 3) 1.308 (8.5% lower - 680rpm difference) 4) 1.000 5) 0.773 That would be a signifigant difference.
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Ya, i thought of that right after I hit post. Anyway, that calculator didn't work for me, but I see that the gear ratios for the T5 and the early 4-speed seem really close to me. T5 with ratios of 3.5,2.144,1.375,1,.78 4-speed with ratios of 3.549, 2.197,1.42,1 With the same rear end ratio (and therefor not part of the calculation), the difference between the two first gears is only 1.4% and between the two second gears is only 2.4%. To reach the same rpm after the transmission (rpm that is going to the rear end), you have a difference of 112 and 192 at 8000 engine rpm. That doesn't seem like enough to really be able to feel any difference. Am I missing something? Of course if you where using a different rear end with each tranny, there definitly would be a difference.
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Wasn't the R200 the limited slip rear end?
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I have two 71's, one has a working '72 4-speed (needs speedo fixed though) and the other has a supposedly good T5 with centerforce clutch. The car with the T5 is my parts car, and supposedly hasn't been driven since '89 but is supposed to still be in good shape. I am building a Prepared Autocross car, sticking with an n/a datsun motor and am not planning on going too crazy with the power. Does anyone have any experience running both transmissions? From what I am told the 4-speed will be ok, less shifting while running high RPM's. The T5 is supposed to have small 1st and 2nd gears which would mean a good deal mor shifting, but better RPM's and fuel consumption on the highway. I have heard of doing an electric overdrive mated to a 4-speed in Triumphs and had though of looking into that too. Right now I am debating whether or not to sell the T5 or keep it on the shelf to try it out in the future.
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Except you are showing everyone all you fancy stuff that is easy to steal. Looks good, but def. a thief magnet.
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I don't think that the heat from grinding is doing this. What it looks like to me is that your weld is not melting the base metal as you go and is just ends up sitting on top rather than forming one continuous piece of steel. I am not a professional welder, but I do have some experience, so I can't really tell you how to fix the problem, but I think that you need to go a little hotter. Also, when you butt weld are the two pieces of metal chamfered or square? \/ or || ? If you don't chamfer them, you won't get as good a weld. Especially if you are grinding back, which is removing a majority of the metal that you have layed down to form the joint (if the edges are straight). Thinking about it, it may also be the area prep too. Make sure all the metal is bare and there is no rust. The heat that you are generating by grinding the weld isn't really a problem unless it was a body panel that you are trying to get flat. Then the metal is going to warp and, in some cases, create a weird contour in the metal that is worse than the original dent. In this case, you said that you are working on the spair tire well and that doesn't exactly need to be perfect.
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So what you are saying is that the form, fit and function of the S&W cage is not satisfatory. And required a good bit of modifying to get to fit properly. Unless you have the ability to do some fabrication, stay away from this kit?
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Looks like the plates would be a little thicker than "required".
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I totally agree with you. One should not skimp on safety. But one should factor in the situation. What is being discussed is the rules for Autocross, so the situation will only ever involve a single car, max speeds around 60mph and safely designed courses. The worst case scenario will never be as "bad" as the worst case scenario for your morning drive to work. The SCCA AX rules DO NOT REQUIRE a cage or roll bar for most classes (except all A Modified (AM), B Modified (BM), C Modified (CM), and F Modified (FM) vehicles and all open cars in Prepared Category, D Modified (DM) class, and E Modified (EM) class, which require a full cage fabricated to the GCR requirements). Remember that all cars (new ones anways, I don't know about Z's, 70's safety isn't the same as today) have rollover protection standards. Minimums that have to be met. So the SCCA has decided that for AX, additional protection, over and above what you need on you morning commute, is not required (except a helmet). Unlike Club racing (GCR) which requires all cars to have a full cage. If you are willing to drive a Z car on the street without a roll bar or full cage, if you feel the as-designed safety measures are good enough, a roll bar could be made out of popsicle sticks. The only job it would be fulfilling is to provide correct mounting for a harness and looking cool. The improved roll-over protection would be IN ADDITION TO the cars corrent roll-over protection. This is ignoring the obvious safety concern of driving a car with a roll bar, or cage, without a helmet because of the likelyhood that your head will impact a bar in a crash. So for the use that I personally have interest in a roll bar, the material that is used doesn't actually matter. It only has to pass tech at my local club. And I definitly agree with JohnC's statement, the cert is not going to be checked, nobody is going to care. Most places, a roll bar made of wood would pass tech if it was painted and a little effort to hide it was made. But in the end, I definitely agree with you, there can be no skimping on safety if the situation warrents it. It is too easy to just do the minimum and have something which will not do the job you intend it to do. Rally drivers walk away from crashes beause the cages where not built by the lowest bidder. This is just where my thinking has taken me. If you want a harness, a racing seat and a harness bar is required. In a Z, a harness bar means a roll bar. The SCCA rules allow ERW tubing which, in addition to the cars current protection, will be more than adequate for any situation I see myself in. If I was doing any other racing or motorsport besides Autocross, that would be a different story (and different rules).
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I see where it restricts the use of ERW in the SCCA General Competition Rules & Specifications (GCR). But that document is for club racing, NOT Solo I or II, and the section talking about roll bars/cages basicly states that you have to have a full cage, and a roll bar is not suffcient. So for Solo, if you have a roll bar, it must meet the requirements of Appendix C OR if you have a full cage (which some classes require) it must meet the GCR requirements. Am I reading or interpreting that incorrectly?
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Not to contradict your opinion of safty, which I totally agree with, but I was just looking at the 2010 SCCA Rules. http://www.scca.org/documents/Solo_Rules/2010_scca_solo_rules.pdf Apendix C - Solo Roll Bar Standards, starts on page 232 and it states in point #1 of section B: This only applies to SCCA, so I don't know about any other racing, but is there some other reference that I am not seeing that restricts the use of ERW?
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That sure does look right. I guess I am going have to give them a call once I get what the correct thread sizes are.
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So as far as you know these things are called "Unilug Adapters"? Could I use a different style lug? I also remeber there being a washer between the "cap" and the rim. Would it be a mag style lug that I need? With the right dia washer, of course.
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I don't remeber seeing any, but then I wasn't looking specificly. Given that a few companies made this style of wheel, I assumed that the wheel and adapter wouldn't have been connected/made by the same company.
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Is anyone familliar with this style of wheel adapter? The rims are the classic five slots but they have a larger hole than the stock Z lug. The addapter has an off-center hole which threads onto the lug and then a cap or lug thread onto the outside of the adapter to hold the rim to the hub. The concentricity of the rim is controlled by the offset hole. If all the lobes are offset in the same direction, the bolt circle is concentric to the hub. The red would be the hub and lugs, while the blue is the offset adapters. With these, I guess you could use a wheel with a bigger or smaller bolt pattern if you wanted depending on which direction the lobes faces. I don't know what these are called, I can't find anyone who knows and I can't find new ones. I am missing one and kinda don't want to drive with just three lugs on that rim.
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You think I could TIG with this power source???
Apollyon12 replied to BURLEIGH's topic in Fabrication / Welding
Somebody sells a TIG welder for $400? The cheapest ones I have heard of are the Millers in the $1800 range... -
There may not be any now, but give it some time and sub-par work will always rear it's ugly head.