Apollyon12

Does the arm have a slight bend in it? This is the one I had on my car (not the MSA Blue one). Yours looks similar, except for the mounting brackets.

Some master cylinders have a valve in the rear circuit that keeps pressure in the system. This is to keep a slight drag in drum systems. Not sure if any of ours would have this. My thought was that you have the front and rear swapped on the master cylinder. When I replaced mine with a 15/16ths one, I had to.

This fix also works with the tach signal from an L28et

I did that and now it's where my battery lives. Even without the roll bar, I don't think you loose much stiffness.

Not super far away. http://maine.craigslist.org/cto/4491115820.html

http://maine.craigslist.org/cto/4491115820.html

What are your plans for it? Are you wanting to built a DD, show car or race car?

If you don't have an Multi Spark Discharge box (MSD 6AL, Crane Hi-6S, ect) you don't need the adapter. You only have an aftermarket coil, so it should be wired up the same as OEM and your tach should work properly. Somewhere along the line, your tach is not getting any type of signal from the coil. You need to go thru your wiring and figure out what isn't hooked up properly. You don't need to go out and buy an MSD box to make it work. You could, but unless you are building a racing motor you don't need it and it would just be a waste of money.

Another similar solution. With tires as wide as yours, they might be wider than the car when you have them side-by-side.

Volts, not amps, correct?

Connect the end of the white wire (red arrow) to the red wire from the adapter. Splice the other end to the hot wire already connected to the tach. It doesn't matter which end of the white wire is connected were. It works both ways. This is a '71 tach.

It's a five hole hub.

I have what appears to be a Victor steering wheel. On the back, it's marked with 3L36 KBA70124. I can find sites selling these wheels overseas but nothing here in the states. I am looking to do a quick change hub and I was wondering if they are equivalent to either the Grant or MOMO wheels? Does anybody know?

The bottle "stores" vacuum. Helps even out the vacuum pulses from the engine into a nice smooth draw, among other things. This system also move actuators in the heating system to open and close vents and direct air. Along with running different parts of the engine and transmisson, if automatic.

Would the MSD unit work for a Crane/Pertronics Ignition? Crane sells an adapter but it says its for newer OBS applications.

This car is going to go up for sale some time in the near future. http://tinypic.com/a/2r4a1/3 I am in southern Maine.

This was another reason why I did not use the full cage. With the stock seats (on custom rails) my helmet hit the halo bars causing me to have to lean my head towards the passenger side. With racing seats this might not have been a problem, but I didn't want to take the chance. Also if you do a full cage, putting the OEM dash and all the heater items back in the car is EXTREMELY difficult. It's not impossible, just requires alot of fab work. Much easier to do a racing dash (saves a ton of weight to). The other thing is that, for track days or HPDE training, you really don't need any of that stuff. It's overkill unless you have serious plans to race. Street car or "RACE" car. Pick one.

The SCCA Autocross rules are kinda vague and not to specific. It's basicly left up to the specific club to decide if what you have will pass tech. Section 3.3.2 (page 34) which refers you to Apendix C (page 241) http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2012_Solo_Rules_May.pdf When it does get specific, in reference to full cages, it refers you to the club racing rules. Section 9.4 (page 114) http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2013%20GCR-%20January.pdf It's my experience that Autocross clubs aren't too picky, as long as things look like they are well made. I actually have one of the Autopower full bolt in cages with the door bars, but I decided to only use the roll bar section because the full cage would require me to fully gut the car and go with a racing dash, which isn't something I wanted to do. I am not using the door bars either because they take up too much space and aren't going to add a significant amount of stiffness to balance the loss of space or extra weight.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/101293-triple-sk-racing-carb-setup/

That they where for a ZX was my first thought.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-240z-260z-280z-Headlight-Buckets-Bucket-Cover-Set-70-78-/370651632591?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item564c8f13cf&vxp=mtr FYI, this is not my auction! I just saw it when I was looking thru ebay.

I have a roof skin and a hatch that needs a little attention. If you are willing to travel to Maine.

Are you planning on doing fender flares? I have a set of fiberglass ones that the drivers side has already been cut.

I have a set of the doglegs. I ended up doing the whole fender arch. $80 + shipping for the pair.

I have a set of fiberglass ones, but one has been cut for a fender flare.