NZeder
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Posts posted by NZeder
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Not too up to speed on the r-34 but i thought the r34 had only the rb25????
R34 GT = RB20DE can be 2 door coupe or 4 door sedan
R34 GT-X = RB25DE can be 2 door coupe or 4 door sedan
R34 GT-T = RB25DETT (not sure if 4 door version all sold/imported appear to be 2 door coupe only)
R34 GT-R = well we all know that one.
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That is cheap, in New Zealand we usually have secondhand JDM cars cheaper than Australia (we have no import tarffis on cars but AU do) - here in NZ a R34 coupe GT for around $8500 - 15000 depending on the age and condition that is local $$ so 8500 NZD = 7500 AUD = $6600 USD. A R34 GTT is more and R34 GTR well that is a lot more and still up there at $50,000 + NZD. But R32 GTR can be had for as little as $10,000 as if you import on now it can't be road registered as it does not meet the frontal impact standards (ie not pass air bag) but once the car hits 20 years old they can be road registered so not long to go now
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I can't answer the KA24 flywheel question but I can tell you that a L6 and RB flywheel will interchange as I have RB flywheel on the back of my L28 engine (well I will have once I complete the rebuild). I am using the larger RB25DET type flywheel which has a 240mm clutch. They have the same 6 bolt PCD.
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I'd be greatful if you could take a pic. Thanks for the help!
Here you go.
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Mike are these Performance Supalites? I am just looking at 16x8 Supalites for my 260Z due to fitting the RB26. I currently have 15x7's on both the 240 and the 260 and both are 12p and sit nicely in the guards. I tried a 16x8 4neg on the front and it clears with a bit sticking out the side and a 16x8 4p seems to be the go on the back. If I fit coilovers the 4p will fit front as well. Have you thought of using 16's?
Hi Mike - no these are not performance superlites (I like to call them superheavies) I will email some more info but they are Rota RB 15x8 12p
All the best for the holiday season.
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One more thing - they are light I have not put one on the bath room scales yet but just by the feel they will help with unsprung weight too. The loading rating mark on the rims is 635KG. The inside of the rims is nice too with not too much change in room/shape - I will take a pic of this tomorrow and post it here to if you wish.
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US Brake sizing - ok I did not get a measurement from the US Brake caliper but I did go out to the garage and looked at the rim I tested fitted and spotted the small mark in the paint of the inner part of the rim. I then measured this straight across the rim = 350mm so the centre to the outer point on the US Brake = 350/2 = 175mm so if you go with the above wilwoods that have the 173mm then there will be 2mm of clearance and more if you ran a small spacer you would gain some more clearance maybe 1-2mm more with a 6mm spacer.
Sorry for all the mm but that is what we use in this part of the world.
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Thank God that I found this topic, I was searching for that info for ages!
I'm planning on buying the Arizona Wilwood brake kit, but I'm not sure about the wheel size. NZeder, do you know if the US Brake calipers are similar in size to Wilwoods, or perhaps a tad larger? I'd like to reduce the rotating mass as much as possible, and installing the 15" would help a bit...
I think the US Brake calipers are a touch bigger as they have more bridge bolts and these are bits that are just catching. Anybody with a Wilwood/AZC setup care to take the measurement? Looking at the wilwood site it shows that the outside edge measurement for the forged billet superlite (like the ones that come with Dave kit) as 174mm from the centre. I think the measurement we got from the US Brake is like 175mm or 176mm if it is 176mm then this will give you 2mm clearance would would be good. If you use the billet superlite 4R/ST caliper they have the outside edge of 173mm = more clearance (either the radial or lug mount have the 173mm measurement) even the Billet Superlite SL6R come in at 173mm with the 12.19" rotor
The only thing that I hate is that US Brake don't have any mounting/sizing on their sites...ahhh...
I will see if we can get some accurate measurements from the US Brake setup in the next few days.
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For those that want to know if these will clear stock 240z spring/perches I have some pics below. I cant confirm if they will work on 280z (our 260z in RHD) suspension yet as my 260z suspension is not in the car but I will see if someone else in the our local club is willing to trial fit to check the clearance too.
Anyway you will see the rims clears fine both front and rear - I will see if I can fit a tyre over the xmas break and take some more pic later. But current indications are 225/50/15 will clear with no issues or spacers required.
These are the same spec rims as 260zturbo's that is Rota RB 15x8 +12 offset in Royal Silver.
I can also confirm that a 12.19" rotor might clear - it is the caliper that might be the issue with the 12.19". I trial fitted these rims on another 240z with 12.19" and US Brake F88i calipers and it was just catching on the bridge bolts of the calipers/pads holding bolts - a different caliper might clear without issues. But a 11.75" setup would clear easy.
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to make this clear folks, it's an RB20 Box, not just any R32 box.
The RB20 box is a form of the FS5W17C, like NZeder pointed out.
The C Transmission just has some synchronizers and some improvements that the A and B did not have.
Saying that an RB Transmission fits on the L28 bellhousing would imply that the FS5R30A (Nissans strongest transmission) would fit on the L28 bell housing.
In that case, so would the RB26DETT all wheel drive transmission, RB25 RWD Transmissions, and the 87 - 96 300zx Turbo transmissions. But sadly that's not the case, or not as easy as a bell housing swap.
Just trying to clear things up.
Good point I should have put RWD only RB boxes as they are all (I have not seen a different manual yet) FS5W71C, that is RB20E, RB20DE, RB30E, RB20DET, RB30ET, RB25DE.
But not the RB25DET or the AWD gearboxes these are different animals all together.
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Frank this is covered on this site with the 240sx gearbox conversion. The RB box is the same as in FS5W71C the difference is the RB box is the same length as the FS5W71B box so no drive shaft mods. If however you have a early 240z that was fitted with an A box originally then the gear lever is too far forward and you need a big bend in it to work. If however you have the later 240z/260z/280z or in your case a 280zx which were designed for the B box and the gear lever is in the same spot as these RB units (this is the reason for the console change in the 240z I believe)
I have an RB box with a L series bellhousing on it for the 260z and a S13 (a 180sx or 200sx or Silvia box in my part of the world) for the 71 240z as the longer tail will put the gear leaver in a better location (these boxes are 50mm longer than the RB boxes so the lever comes back 50mm = no bend a straight lever is used)
So for English version just search here for the 240sx gearbox - same result just shorter tail section if you use the RB box = perfect for the 280zx
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I'm interested in the mount you will be using, do you have any info on it? I was under the impression that most were just using a GM style poly transmission mount.
Then energysuspension GM mount is an interlocking design so you should be ok if you are using one of these units see http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/mt_tr1.html
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/univ3.html
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Is there a link to a site with more pics? Looks very interesting.
No that is every thing he posted (there are other pics of his car but none of the suspension/brake setup) I have sent him a PM weeks ago but no reply - either busy, does not want to answer or just has not visited the site in an age.
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Don't know about the ZX strut but there is a guy in Australia that has put a hybrid Mazda RX7 setup on the front of his 260z. Here are some pics and details that he posted on the viczcar.com site (all words below are his username is rbz 260)
RX7 front hubs, 4spot calipers, rotors and strut adapted to the 260z
If they look wierd yes they are. They are off mazda Rx7 Series 5. I used rx7 hubs and struts as well and series 4 lower ball joint. custom spring on 260z top cap. ive grinded of the mazda writing and did a bit of personal touch.
my setup may not be as easy for some guys but becuse i changed all heap of stuff it may be an option if doing similar things after.
my has 5 stud conversion and cv type driveshafts also power steering.
also wanted 4 pot cal at the front and disk at rear.
FRONT
i used rx7 s4/5 turbo calipers but catch is i also used rx7 strut and hubs. reason for this is i got power steering at the front and wanted 5 stud rims and 4 spot calipers. nothing from nissan stable could do the cut because of the power steering being mounted on rear. but rx7 does have at the front. also i wanted new type of struts with small bottom seat which also rx7 has.
so at the front i got vented 297mm rotors with 4 pot cal and ease of using rx7 coil over at later stage.
REAR
i got r200 lsd diff at the back and didnt like the uni type driveshafts. and the diff came with 4 bolt type cvs. also needing rear 5 stud i ended up getting comlete trailing arms from oz z31 turbo with rotors axles and calipers and handbrake cables. both for $200.
the deal was to use z31 axles with 5 stud.also turbo z31 has same companion flange as my r200 from r31 2 door.
i was hoping to find bearing that will fit 260z outside with 300zx inside. but problem was the early zed has imperial bearing size while z31 metric.
on the end i go tthe hubs machined to suit the bearings.
funny thing is the rear bracket that was welded was cut off and cleaned up but the holes actualy lined up to the 260z hub. anyway after machining
it all went together well..
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see http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122970
This is what I did to fix the problem - see the last post in the thread above.
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Any update on this R180 Helical install? ie CV shafts what have you found out. I am thinking of doing something sim on my new 240z (factory R180, the 260z has the R200 in it already so I have done the normal R200 cv conversion stuff) but with the 240z I am thinking I might pickup a Subie R180 and go down this path.
What brand is the Helical R180? I thought all Subie used CLSD or VLSD in the rear with only the newer cars using ATB/Torsen/Helical in the front and centre.
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Remember that I am outside the USA and like so many other countries we did not get the L28 until the 280zx or 280c/Laurel/Cedrics of the same era ie 79. So this is how I have been told to identify the older L28 blocks which I was told by a contact in Japan who said these are the ones with the higher nickel in them and this is how you tell them apart - if this is incorrect please point me in the right direction but these L28 with no 4 bolts holes are rare here in NZ and I believe also rare in Japan (as stated it took me almost 4 years to find one here in NZ)
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and this is how you tell them apart. See the pic attached all other N42's have the 4 bolts holes/casting shape around the oil filter area.What you're looking for here in the US is a N42 block out of a 1975 280Z. Those had the highest nickel content of any L6 block sold here in the states. -
I saw some crazy big stuff in Japan in the 80's done on N42 Blocks....
Big Bore? Some would use the excuse 'I'm just unshrouding the valves for better flow characteristics!'
LOL
Re the N42 too stuff a contact in Japan told me to get the early N42 block (easily identifiable) for any large "unshrouding work" and after a few years of search here in NZ I found one - only one so far (I believe in Japan they are now rare and hard to fine)
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It has been a while - work has been busy so I have not done a lot on this but here are some pics of the progress - I will be ordering some caliper in the coming weeks so I will update this post again.
Rotors are Vented 305mm x 22mm with 56mm total hat height with 190mm internal park drum brake.
Pics of unloaded park brake
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I know of at these 3 blocks at 90mm all are N42's one was build 11 years ago and still going strong.
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Really gutted I couldn't make it, I almost put the car on the trailer and towed her up so you guys could have a look and I could see all your cars.
Next time I'll be there with bells on
Rob
The quickest N/A car was a 240z with a 13.42 and a slipping clutch
at 173km/h so should be a mid 12 sec car (car is built for the circuit not drags as 3.9 diff)Fastest 240z was 12.72 - a targa built car with supercharged LS1 with 4lbs boost.
The 1000hp Supra dumped all the trans oil up the entire strip = 1 hour later for the clean up. I think it ran a mid 12 before the issue - I was not that interested wrong model of car (it had drag slicks too).
Some 300zx Z32 running around the 13's. And 2 289 mustangs doing 15-14's all day long.
Looking forward to seeing the car in the future
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ok if the 6 bolt type I then I think they will be the same as the Z31 non turbo = too long unless you find another shaft (or have a custom one made). But there are some 4 bolt R31 (not sure about R30 when I think about it) around.
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If I remember correctly the DR30 and R31 turbo coupe CV axles are the same same 4 bolt type as used in the Z31 ie the same length = the same shafts.
at 173km/h so should be a mid 12 sec car (car is built for the circuit not drags as 3.9 diff)
OBX LSD for 240sx R200
in Drivetrain
Posted
As stated the answer is yes but also as stated the issue is the different input shaft requirements = a bit of a hassle.