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NZeder

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Posts posted by NZeder

    RB30 stuff: Aussies please read.

    in Nissan RB Forum

    Posted

    You sure that is not a miss print and should be RD28 ie the Diesel version of the RB much like the L28 and LD28. The RD28 were in many of the JDM cars based on the same floor pans as the R31, R32, R33 skylines - ie Laurel are most common RD28 finds here in NZ.

     

    The RB30 were found here in NZ and OZ in the Holden Commodore range, Nissan Skyline R31 and the Nissan Patrol. There were a few RB30 engine that did stay in Japan and made into the Tommy Kaira Special M30 based on the R31 Skyline GTS-R. It delivered 177 kW (240 PS) @ 7000 rpm and 294 N·m (30.0 kgf·m) @ 4800 rpm. These were a RB30DE made up of the RB30 bottom end and custom modified RB20 head.

     

    Sorry I can't help with the part numbers as I don't have a parts number/catalog/fast CD etc I would help if I could.

    Custom Rusch Motorsports P-90a head

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    No, it is not a Bob Sharp engine. All the work was performed in Japan. It just has one of the old Bob Sharp valve covers.

     

    And the way I read it, the mention of the P90 and F54 in the owner's blog was actually referring to his previous engine - which he described as almost standard spec. ( untuned ). The engine pictured above is his new engine - not the same thing at all.

    Alan T.

    I agree and that is without using translation software or knowing Japanese I get this by looking at the pictures.

    If you look at this pic of the block notice the lack of the 4 bolt holes round the oil filter area. All F54 have them - this block does not. So this would make it a P30 aka L24/L26 block (unlikely) or the hard to find but they do exist as I have one early N42 casting.

    1162600781.jpg

     

    The owner was talking something about an 89.25mm bore...WOW!! that makes really thin cylinder walls!!

    Now back to the early N42 comment above it is said that these early N42 with the different casting around the oil filter have a high nickel content in the steel and are aslo solid ie non siamese unlike the later N42/F54's (do a search and you will find that N42 are siamesed)

    So these early N42 can take a big bore easier than the later blocks. You can get 90 or 90.5mm from a Nissan block I know as I have a N42 at 90mm currently.

     

    So now back to the picture of the engine with the bob sharp cover. I am thinking this is a different engine as the looking at the pic you can see it has one of the oil filter direction changers installed. These usually bolt on the 4 holes around the filter = a different block to the one shown without the head.

    1162600781.jpg

    1156917423.jpg

     

    Well that is my take just by looking at the pictures.

     

     

    Now back on to the topic of this thread -- Excellent work on your head and figures Paul you no doubt are happy with the results.

    Tach signal

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    The points based tach's are a direct copy of the Smiths setup so they have a loop from the + side of the coil. Here in NZ our 260z (up to 1978) still had a points based dizzy so therefore this older type + loop tach setup. So given how hard it is to find a 280z tach locally I took my tach to a local smith instruments guys who was known to have a conversion kit that can upgrade the UK Jag Smith based tachs from the + loop type to the modern - coil type. So a few days later and a new circuit board my 240z (and 260z) tach have been converted and calibrated to the more modern - coil signal type.

     

    So much so is the Zed tach a copy of the Smith unit they even use UNC screws not metric like the rest of the car - makes you think that Nissan had a license to use these Smith style tachs in the cars in the first place.

     

    If you want to have the stock tach look I would contact a local speedo/tach/instruments shop and tell them you have tach that is a copy of the Jag smith + loop type and do they sell/do a conversion kit.

     

    I know the Jag kit works as this is what has been installed in my 240z tach.

     

    Hope this info is of use.

    Petronix,MSD 6 and Petronix coil

    in Ignition and Electrical

    Posted

    Sorry to bring an old thread back from the dead. I thought I would share my findings downunder with regards to the Tach issue. I have purchased a Pertronix pick-up, coil and a second strike unit so I knew that I would need to sort the Tach signal issue etc.

     

    Anyway knowing that our local 260z is basically a the same body as your 280z I thought I would just pickup a 260z tach (I assumed Nissan would have moved away from the loop + coil tach signal setup on these like your 280z.....wrong so wrong. You see our local 260z right up to 77/78 still had points so Nissan kept the old loop tach thing going...:()

     

    So I thought I would share a few pics with you guys. The 260z tach was from a 1977 260z. For those 280z owner that want to have a 7000 Redline maybe (rather than your 280z 6500 rpm limit - if the font is the same) you could just pickup one of our tach's and swap the face over.

     

    You will see that the 260z tach has a single plug for the tach and all the lights to the tach (nice) and one the left is the stock 4 wire 240z tach. Now that I know that my tach's are no good in there current configuration I am off to see the local gauge guy who will convert these to the more common - coil pickup type tach. He installs a electronic board, mods the unit and then re-calibrates the unit.

    tach1_thumb.jpg

    tach2_thumb.jpg

    tach3_thumb.jpg

    9 second RB30 street 240z nearing completion

    in Nissan RB Forum

    Posted

    Rob,

     

    I am a local Z Club member - I recognise the 240z - did it used to be in Auckland and owned by ??? Daryl? a large-ish guy?

     

    Any can't wait to see what this will go like when complete - so this is replacing the old work horse that you used to run - ie the car that was in the performance car mag a year or so ago?

     

    There is also another NZ hybridz member that I know who is building a RB30DET - I believe you did his intake plenum too - again his plan is street legal car too - however not a drag strip car.

     

    I have a RB26 head and RB30 bottom end that I will put together one day but with triple TB and NA (just purchased another z so engine budget gone currently)

     

    Great project - look forward to seeing at the Meremere some day

    RB mounts for Z's

    in Nissan RB Forum

    Posted

    I am from down under (well downunder and across abit to find the land of the long white cloud aka New Zealand) and I purchased set of the CRS mounts (won't be doing the RB conversion for some time now that I purchased a second zed - budget for the RB going on the new 240z)

     

    Anyway I got on the phone - called the guys they were good to deal with I think they are more old school and not too keen on the non personal touch of email etc.

    just got my rotas

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Well there would be one way for 260turbo to find out for sure and that is to measure the backspace himself, if it measures 4.5" this would give him a positive offset of about 12mm.

     

    Sorry but do you math again. 8" rim = approxy 9" outside lip to outside lip (rims are measured bead to bead) so to have an 8" rim with 4.5" backspace it would have to be 0 offset. If you are thinking 7" rim (ie 8" lip to lip) with 4.5" backspace then you have offset approx +12.

     

    So if these were +12 offset on a 8" rim then they would have close to 5" of backspace.

    OBX diff problem...need input quick.

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Question for you re the problems you had and I found out.

     

    First the OBX centres are designed for S13/S14's so it is designed for the M12 not M10 as stated above - easy fix. Next issue I have found is the input shafts C-Clips. The earlier long-nose R200's have the C-Clips held in the side gear inside the diff. The OBX centres don't have the clips installed. So this started to get me to think - maybe the S13/S14 are designed like other diffs and to have the C-Clip installed on the shafts. So this lead me to research these cars diffs. Then I found a pic on this site with 300zx input shafts next to S13 input shafts. See attached pics. So can any one confirm if the S13/S14 do indeed have the C-Clips on the input shafts not in the centre.

     

    If this C-Clip design has changed as I believe then I will need to modify 300zx input shafts so the C-Clip groove is deeper this way the C-Clip will be retained on the shaft (My diff guy has installed the OBX into the diff so I can't pull out and disassemble to see if the OBX C-Clip groove is a shallow one (it looks like it when looking down the input shaft hole))

     

    So I am thinking that if the C-Clip is designed to be the other way around then if you don't make the mod to the input shafts (to retain the C-Clip) I am guessing that there is a chance the input shafts will float in and out of the centre - maybe enough to slam into the belleville washers = result damage to the washers.

     

    That leads to this question - what did the end of your input shafts look like? Were they polished like they were slamming into the washers?

     

    I will be taking my input shafts to the diff guy so he can confirm that they will need to be modified.

    input-shafts_thumb.JPG

    Arizona adjustable strut experience

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I've just installed a set on my car.
    Cool
    I put this stuff on the car because I wanted the car very low and still have some suspension travel. I got it.
    That is what I want too :)
    The threaded collars that are welded to what is left of the Z strut stubes have very close tollerances. I had to remove the paint on the Z strut tubes to get them to slip in to place.
    good news on the tollerances - are you using 240z struts or 280z struts?
    If I had it to do over, here is what I would have one differently. On the fronts, I would have left only .75 inches of Z strut tube on front. The lowest height adjustment of the threaded shock happens when the shock body bottoms out on what is left of the sectioned Z strut housing. This would have given me .75 inches lower ride height before I had to start adjusting the coil over part.
    Good to know.

     

    The rears ended up being welded with a 1.25 section of Z strut housing left on the forging. I still have an inch or so to go lower.
    So if I understand this correct you have 1.25" of the original strut tube showing? ie from the forging/axle-hold-bit to the bottom of the weld-on threaded collar is 1.25"? So if this is the case and you have 1" of the original tube inside this bit then you only have 2.25" of the original tube left - whereas on the websites install it states leave 5.5" for the 240z and 7.5" for the 280z (our late model 260z down this part of the world)

     

    On the adjustment of the front shocks, I'm working on it. Trying to use on of those flexable screw drivers that will be either tack welded to the adjusting nut or more likely drilled and pinned. I have drilled a hole at about 45 degrees upward on the inboard side of the forging. It allows adjusting while still on the car. I have tried numerous sizes and types out tubes and clamps to get tit to hold. No success. Next is the modified flexable screw driver.{/quote]That is what I was thinking would need to be done.

     

    Hope that helps.
    It does - I think I will look at getting a set for my 240z.

    Arizona adjustable strut experience

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    You see a lot of this kind of suspension setup here locally in NZ in S13/S14/S15 and the Skyline range R32/R33/R34 etc most of the drift guys go with this stuff as you can purchase bolt-in kits for these newer models see http://www.tein.co.jp/e/products/mono_flex.html for one of many suppliers. I like the idea - coilovers with height adjustable but still keeping the travel the same and as luck would have it I have just purchased a 240z that requires some suspension work in the future and with out dollar so good against the US currently I too am very interested in this setup. I would agree with the 2" engagement and if I got this kit that is what I would look at doing - if you see his install instructions on the front he is using 1 1/2" but in this case it is also welded to the lower stub-thing-bit.

     

    The other question I have in the install page he drills a hole in the rear to again access to the adjustment of the shock at the bottom. If the front is setup the same how do you adjust it?

    OBX vs Quaife (with pixors)

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Mmm, I also bought an OBX. Mine came with 12.9 bolts all around. Its wierd that yours has different hardware.

     

    Justin

    Mine was the same with all 12.9 bolts however mine did cost a little more than the $375 - however the guy I purchased from did have 2 prices $375 and $425 and I paid the $425 (not knowing he had the same unit for less) so the only think I can think off is that the $375 were not quite up to the same standard/grade and hence the price difference (well that is what I am telling myself anyway)

    Will my RB30 hit my bonnet?

    in Nissan RB Forum

    Posted

    I recall seeing on another thread with a pic of the Castlemain mounts next to someone else's and the Castlemain looked like they would mount the engine lower. Check with some of the Oz Zed forums and see if this question has been answered there before.

    4 rotor eccentric shafts

    in Other Engines

    Posted

    there have been a few 4 rotors build here in NZ. The first one was (I say was, it has been sold, and I believe it is heading to your part of the world - the US that is, the guy that build the car is now working on new 4 rotary but with less power for a road not road/strip) in a batman RX7. It was NA and made 490HP was road legal and it a 10sec 1/4 there is a video on the web of it going down the local strip. I did think about it for while my Zed = 260z = 2600cc. 4 rotor = 26B (ie 13B x 2) = around 2600cc in rota cc's with out the calculation of 1.6 or whatever the FIA do. Which I thought we very cool.

    The 4 rota does not sound too rota like in fact when up on song it sounds like a V10/V12. I did do the costing for this and the engine swap was going to cost $22K USD (this was complete, ECU, Loom, Surge tanks the works) the 4 rota shaft is/was about $5K USD (this is a kit that includes the shaft and custom bolts for holding/putting the thing together etc. So by the time you purchase new 13B parts it was around the $14K USD for the engine.

     

    So I went for a L28 with some work for now. This type of engine would be great in a mid engine kit car/replica = lighter than a V12 but as much power and almost the same sound......Maybe a 787B le mans replica that is road legal...now that would be cool.

     

    How about building one of these and sticking it in a 73 Corvette? This is what GM were going to do when they started working on the Rotary engine (like many car manufactures of the 70's they all purchased the rights to the Rotary design and had a go with only Mazda successful in the market place - and still building them today) and the GM project was a 4 rota too :)

     

    Well that is it form me.

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