wolfman_dlc

The front wheels I did. The rear half I havent yet, but I will in the morning. Thanks for the replies! Daniel

Jacked it up today and could find no damage. No dents in the oil or tranny pan. I even removed the fly wheel inspection cover and found nothing wrong. Suspension and wheels all looked and felt fine. Car drives absolutely normal other than it sounding like its gonna blow. Daniel-

OK. Last night I hit an (already dead) large dog on the freeway in my 280zx. I didnt have an option not to hit it so I aime for dead center. Unfortunately my car was too low and I high centered feeling like I hit a speed bump at 60mph. Immediately after I hear a loud whine from transmission area. I put it in nuetral, pulled over, shut off engine. I didnt see any fluid or obvious problems and had no cell phone on me so I started her up. When I started her the sound was gone, gave her a few revvs just to check and had no problems. Forgot to mention This is a three speed Automatic with 240,000 miles. I decided to drive her home and as soon as the wheels start to spin the noise begins and grows very much worse when letting off the gas. It is mostly consistant with road speed as I put it in neutral at 40mph and had no change when revving up the engine. It sometimes sounds like a rod hitting the oil pan, sometimes like a warped rotor rubbing a brake pad. From where the sound is coming from my best guess is either torque converter or transmission. Can anyone shed some lite for me. This is my daily driver of 100miles per day. Daniel

yes the cas does go in only one way, but I was talking about the degree wheel. It can be turned over, still not sure if it matters tho.

Once a day, every day, at the same time of day, so many hours apart? Outside, in garage? Sounds electrical in nature to me. Are the AFM and crank angle sensors new or used parts. Not 100% sure but does it matter how you put the disk in for the cas, upside down or right side up? Try bumping the ecu while its running, sounds strange but mine had a faulty chip. It would die out of nowhere and refuse to start again till it wanted. Bumping the ECU or any vibration may give it faulty reading change your timing and fuel output. Just some Ideas!

Update!! warning results may not be typical.... I spliced a 100 ohm resistor to wire connected to pin one of AFM. I started her up and she wouldnt idle. The AFM had been opened at some point before I bought her so my guess was she may have been adjusted enough to get her to run. I was correct!! As the car was idling irratically I moved the the "pointer" forward to richen the mixture. It died immediately, tried again only leaning her out and the idle smoothed and raised slightly. I dont yet have a wide band so I adjusted for best sound and rpm/vacuum. Jumped back in driver seat and she free reved at WOT to over 6500 rpm crisply. Now for the driving test!!

But thats just it, I had the same prblem when free reving and was watching the fuel pressure gauge. WOT free reving only got me to about 5500 max rpm. Let off just a little and it would jump up to the 6k+ rpm with good pressure the entire time. Im also leaning to my afm. Just tested according to the fsm and the first test specifies 280-400 ohms on first and second pin of afm. Im only getting 200 ohms. Fsm says to replace, can I just add a resistor in line to adjust or would that be a waist of time?

Im starting to lean towards injectors myself. I seem to remember a surge in fuel pressure a wot like perhaps the injectors were at full flow but regulator was giving more pressure. If the injectors were at full flow at almost WOT, the increased air at wot would have caused it to go lean. I dont know the history on these injectors but will start looking for a higher flowing set especialy if I plan to turn the boost up anytime soon!! Thanks for the quick reply! any other suggestions welcome Daniel

I have an 82 280zx turbo with usual minor modifications. Intercooler, Catless 3in ex, fuel log, egr and other vacuum equipment removed, K+N Filter, alum 3core rad/ 2 12in electric fans, gm ignition module/ accel super coil. Every thing else is mostly stock and running stock boost. When free reving the engine with pedal fully dropped It hits a wall at around 5-5500 rpm. But if I let off just a little it will jump up to around 6200 no prblem. The same under load. When driving about 50mph and punch it the car accels roughly sometimes frontfires and feels like im towing a semi. If I let off just a little, the car accels beautifully and full of power. I Searched for this and found some saying they hit walls at 4-5000 rpms but unsure if their prblms are related. I only have some wild guesses as to why this is happening. My best guess is the afm but have tested it and all is good, Fuel pressure is testing good when free reving, from what I understand the timing is not adjustable, could is be a pedal adjustment? I want to get this figured out before I start turning up the boost any! Any Ideas appreciated- Daniel

And as far as intercoolers go, does anyone feel this would be a good deal? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FMIC-INTERCOOLER-PIPE-KIT-BK-BK-SR20DET-KA24DET-240SX-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZModelQ3a280Q5AXQ7cSubmodelQ3aTurboQQhashZitem4ceaf51acfQQitemZ330359446223QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories If not any links to suggested purchases would be helpful!!

quik ? what size plug? im sure i could find it around here.

Stock 5-6 psi is what im currently running. Would love to bump it to close to 12psi, but shes a daily driver and want to do it right!! Forgot to mention that she is an Automatic.

Thanks for the info. The exhaust is 2 3/4 from down pipe to turbo muffler. Im too comfortable with the l28(unless I blow it up) to change right now. So for $1500 I could get intercooler,ems,injectors,boostcontroller. Anything else vitally needed to hook all those up? I have a knack for forgetting the obvious. "Read this sticky also http://forums.hybrid...eginners-guide/" I have read this information several times elsewhere as well as here, would seem to answer most of my questions but need some reasurring as well as specifics for my application and $ limits.

I have a 280zxt, mostly stock. Engine bay has been cleaned up with all emmissions junk removed. Iam now looking to gain boost and power. I need Ideas for the best way to spend for the best gains. any suggestions welcome. current ideas I have are to upgrade injectors, add intercooler, boost controller. Suspension and brakes are all new. Thanks for any advise.

I am engineering an in car device for adjusting air/fuel ratio at WOT on stock ecu 280zx Na/turbo cars. If there is interest and I have success with the device I can make more. I am no artest but here is an example of the controller which will include an afr gauage for myself.

No thoughts or opinions?

When I bought my 280zx turbo a year ago it came with a JSK rail. Well, the installer put the return line in the center of the rail and capped the end which is a first for me. The capped end has a pressure gauge that was reading about 22psi at idle with vac line in place. I am in the process of moving and upgrading the system and decided to move the return line to the end where it looks more natural. In doing this it raised the pressure to 25psi. I had a front fire condition under full stock boost WOT at any mph. Now for my questions. Im no fluid dynamics expert but would simply changing the location of the return line connection to the rail make a pressure difference on the back half of the rail? With return line between injectors 3 and 4 would there be some kind of turbulance at full boost that lowered the psi for injectors 4-6? Could this be the culprit of my possible lean fire? Last but not least has anyone used the cheap fpr on ebay with success? (last ? probably stupid get what you pay for right) eg.>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVERSAL-FUEL-PRESSURE-RED-REGULATOR-GAUGE-GAS-HOSE-L5_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d3Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d7586033495094256266QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQcategoryZ42611QQitemZ110657092912

I was really hoping to find one local. My Z is a daily driver and need ecu ASAP!

How much for it?

I am in need of an 82 280zx turbo or compatible ecu for an automatic. I live in the Mesquite, TX area and trying to buy local. Needed ASAP. Thanks

The cap isnt sealed. I dont think that was my problem. I tested everything with a multimeter and everything was good. I read about insufficent grounds. I added several new groundwires from afm, block, coil area, and Intake manifold to the neg battery post. NO MORE ISSUES since. Might want to add a few!!

For my issue the fuel pressure is perfect and regulator is new and working. I believe the problem may be in the ecu. When this problem strikes I hear a fast clicking from fuel pump relay, fuel injectors cut off, and spark Dies. So I lose 2 of the three items needed. A quik tap with my foot on the ecu has seemed to solve it temporarly. Buying a multimeter today!!

I am currently suffering from same problem. 82 280zxt. The issue is it isnt constantly happening so finding out why is difficult. Mine Is extremely rich. sometimes in the morning it stalls out and I have to cut power to fuel pump (kill switch) and crank it over a few times. I have also Had smoke screens flare up when stop lights turn green with no explanation no excessive accelaration. I never know when the gremlins are gonna hit. I have dialed back the afm and I think it helped some, changed fuel filter, spark plugs, wires are good, Injectors are supposedly new remans. The turbo spools up nicely. All electrical contacts I can find have been cleaned, fuel pressure steady at idle and climb nicely with acceleration. Fuel lines changed to fuel inj lines. Aftermarket jsk fuel rail. Cht sensor kills or almost kills car when unplugged. Good connections on all other temp sensors. Sorry I have no answers, just more questions.

I am looking for a 280zx turbo project or running v8 swapped. prefer 83 model with digital dash and ttops. Must be automatic!! I live in the Dallas area and do not want to drive more than 6 hours so absolute max distance is 400miles. May consider trading my 70 buick skylark and Max price considered is 2500. Let me know what you have. thax.