Shaggz00

+1 on the red! IMO it's the only way to go, black makes it look like u were being lazy, didn't wanna cut it all in, and are trying to hide something. Body color FTW!

Being a professional welder, I've come to realize that it's just metal, nothing is permanent:) That being said, what are your ideas? If it's worthwhile to backtrack, he just might...

Any chance at all it was towed? It seems an unusual target for theft to me except just for a joy ride. I think they just stand out too much being an older car and especially looking sharp. A thief would be an idiot to try and keep it. Really sorry bro, I hope I am right in saying this, but I think you will get it back soon. Joy ridden, and parked in some random location I say. I feel your pain! good luck

Nice update, sux about the cowl, and the trans tunnel... Your solution should work just fine,I think the best thing you can do to fight deformation is to make the patch panel as close a fit as possible before you start attaching it with screws or begin tacking. Of course be sure to seal up that backside extremely well. Seems like the ideal place for water to get trapped in from underneath.

Lookin good. How about a brace from the bottom of the "V" brace to the trans tunnel. I'm just thinking that although the bracing looks great, what are the chances that the tunnel drops slightly since the firewall is the main thing holding it up(besides the frame and all, haha). Then again, you need some room to work though, too. You might also consider getting some diagonal measurements across the engine bay. Can never be too safe Keep it up! Can't wait to do one of my own!

I guess what's done is done, but couldn't you have just cut an access hole, say 2-3" tall, and as long as you need to get to the spot-welds? It seems it would have been a lot less work.

I never thought I'd say this, but that Ford Model A is sick!! haha

One of the guys posted that link on the AllTrac forums like a year ago. Hands down, some of the most amazing fabrication (Edit* and restoration!) I have ever seen. If I had the time and equipment to spend my days doing that I would be in heaven.

Hey guys, First post here Just wanted to mention another welding tidbit in regards to polarity settings. When you run a FCAW (flux core) setup, you will run on what is called DC straight polarity (a.k.a. DC negative). When running a GMAW (MIG/Metal Inert Gas) setup, you will run DC reverse polarity (a.k.a. DC positive). An easy way to think of the two is this: DC(-) Straight = more heat in the base metal (the metal melts faster) DC(+) Reverse = more heat in the wire (the wire melts faster) That should give a good indication as to what the best sheet metal setup is. You can use FCAW, but you will melt your sheet metal fast, which isn't really what you want. Heat equals distortion, which is why professionals use MIG. Less heat on the sheet metal equals less distortion. Bottom line with sheet metal is go slow and keep heat to a minimum. Continuous welds longer than 1/2" is a no-no without some serious bracing for distortion control. All you guys welding metal 1/8" and thicker, like frame rails, sub frames, or engine mounts, by all means use flux core. Just try your best to watch your molten puddle and keep it clean. Trapped slag, and porosity (tiny holes in your weld caused mostly by dirty base metal, trying to weld over paint, etc.) means a weak joint. Hope everyone found my first post useful! -Avi