cruceno21

Didn't find anything here... but I found this on Zcar and I am going to try something similar. Couplers are 6 or 7 bucks each, and then some cut down CAI tubing from autozone should do the trick I think. http://www.zcar.com/forums/866662/high-flowperformance-intake-boot

My car has brown tweed seats... and they are ripped up... I found a used set of white seats and I am going to try and do this as well. Where did you buy the dye? A long time ago I dyed some vinyl in a Camaro I owned and I just used some stuff from a local store and it was fairly good. Looking for some options.

ModernS30 - did respond to your question. The Discount Tire guys here said the XXR Wheels were back ordered and it would be weeks to get them. So I got them on eBay quick and cheap. I got a killer deal on the ASTs from them.

My car was having some power loss off and on... I checked my AFM boot and sure enough a few cracks. So I taped it up and founded a used one to buy. Well the used one has the 77-78 plug hole (my car is a 75). What do people recommend to use to plug the hole? I didn't have something in the garage that fit the hole well. That got me thinking... could I just get an elbow pipe and two rubber couplers to connect the AFM and TB instead of that boot? This would be cheaper than the $50 I am seeing for an AFM boot, and no worries about it cracking again. I have installed a lot of CAIs with those couplers and they are easy to work with and seal up well. So then I searched on eBay and found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessories Has anyone done this? I searched and found nothing.

I check compression and it was fine. It was running 10/30 syn when I got it, and I am running 15/50 right now and that helps a lot. I just notice it more I think because the fumes all get sucked into the car. I am going to redo the taillight panel and try to seal it up better. I still want to get the motor rebuilt, but she runs fine and strong so I am letting it ride a little for now while I fix other items.

It rubs in the rear... on big bumps or hard cornering. It is not bad though so I am not overly worried about it. I have had cars rub worse, I even did an autocross this weekend and where it rubs was barely even a mark of rubber removed.

Yeah I know it won't make much if any aero difference. I figured for $25 it was worth a shot as I don't like the car without a spoiler, and I don't want something too big. I am still debating if I want to stick it on or not. I will leave it unpainted for now, no plans for paint until a year or two. Its mostly for looks.

Wow man... my rust isn't nearly as bad so this gives me hope. I need the driver side frame rail replaced and thats about it (for now). I actually have not been able to find someone willing to weld it for me. Craftsmanship like this is gone these days...

My car (1975 280z) didn't have a spoiler and I heard spoilers help with the exhaust fumes leaking in. Not sure what I wanted to do but the BRE ones are just too aggressive for me. I had a friend who got one of those M3 style stick on spoilers and I thought I would give it a whirl. The part is really universal, but listed as for a 94-97 Accord because of the width. I couldn't find one as narrow as the hatch and I didn't want a long one I would have to cut into three pieces. I got the part and it has a slight curve to it but I am trying to slowly with some heat bend it straight. It is a stick on item, but it is solid plastic so if I like it, I will counter sink some holes and permanently mount it. I think I am just going to leave the ends hanging off. I will stick some felt bumpers under it so it doesn't scratch the quarter panels and leave it for now. I could if I really like it, cut off the ends and then stick them to the quarter panels. I blue taped it down when I got it to test fit it, what do you guys think?

Quick Update: Mechanical Fixed Trans Leak (driveshaft and missing cap on shifter assembly) Replaced #1 injector K&N Air Filter New Plugs Distributor rotor and cap, thermostat (Ordered but not installed yet) Cosmetic Removed bumpers (still need to get the shock absorbers off). Working on audio (came with no radio) Collected nearly all black interior pieces (came with half butterscotch) Installed new wheels - 16x8 XXR wheels with Kumho AST Tires in 225/50 Couple Pics: More on my website: New Rims

Reviving an old thread... I want to get a smaller spoiler because the BRE ones are just too big looking for me, and I want to see if this will help with the exhaust getting sucked into the hatch area. I had some friends who bought these for their ricer cars... and they stuck well. They were solid ABS so you could just cut the ends, and then shape it with a curve to look like a custom fit. For the cost I am going to give it a shot... shopping on eBay right now for one. I will keep you all posted on the progress. If anyone has done is since this thread was started... please post pics.

So is there no cap for that part and its just leaking because it is over filled? I can't imagine that there wouldn't be a cap on there. I will check the plug tonight when I get home.

might sound dumb here... but since there is no dip stick how do I check the level of gear oil? do I just remove the filler plug and see if it pours out?

When I bought the car the transmission leaked. It was leaking from the seal on the driveshaft, so I replaced that. Then I saw that there was also transmission oil coming from the shifter assembly. I took out the center console so I could get a good look at it. FYI - this is a 1975 280Z that was original an auto, but swapped to 5-speed by some previous owner before me. I am not sure what model the trans is from. There is the background info, here is my question: It is leaking out of the gear change lever area. The tube that comes out the back doesn't have a cap on it. Not sure if it is supposed to, or if there needs to be a better seal around where the shifter control arm connects inside that assembly. I got the pic from my FSM, but I know the trans isn't from a 75 but the diagram looks close. I also took a pic of my shifter. I did a search on MSA for a part that looks similar in description. Is that what I need? Final question. While this is out, should I do a short shifter right now? If so, how can I tell what trans model I have to see what short shifter I need? The end cap isn't numbered or named. You can see the gear oil leaking out the back of the assembly. MSA Shifter Part?

I figured if he wasn't advertising here... then he might not be legit. I am starting to buy the parts needed for the rebuild. I found a local guy that will do it for me. So now just trying to locate all the parts at good deals (thats the hard part)... and then get her rebuilt.

Yeah I have been looking for some brackets with no luck. Even the bumpers are a little pricey, so for now just going to rock the no bumper look... I guess it is time to start the random Datsun part pile in my garage loft...

I just pulled my front and rear bumpers. they are both in decent shape, but the moldings have some cracks and one of the front ends is broken. I am not going to be replacing them. Are the rubber parts repairable and someone might want them? Are the bumpers in demand at all? I don't want to store stuff that is just junk... I have not removed the bumper shocks yet. I was wondering if anyone has ever custom made bumpers that mount right to those? I thought if taking my stock bumper to a metal shop to see if they could using the stock mounts make something that mocks the 240 bumpers or something similar.

What are some recommended valve guides? I only found them through black dragon. Wasn't sure other options? They also sell standard ones and then upgraded ones... is it worth the money? http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=24 Also, do I need the valve seats as well? I don't want to not order parts, then during the rebuild have to let the car sit while I order more parts. Someone here at a local shop recommended some ford valve guides that work well... its a guy at the machine shop who said lots of ford stuff works on Datsuns... he used to work on them he said (older guy) and would need to look up and try to see what part numbers they use to use on the old Zs... have not heard back from him yet.

$30,000? I might have to pass... I was shocked when a shop wanted $1000 to remove, rebuild, and replace my head. Maybe that isn't so unreasonable thinking about the work involved. What all parts should I replace at the same time. The parts list is growing... Full Gasket Kit Sparkplugs Thermostats (one shop recommended, one shop requires it or they won't warranted the build) Head Bolts Valve Guides Assuming the rest of the parts in the head are fine... is that my parts list? Maybe I will start buying all the parts I need little by little to spread the cost out and drive her a little more. It isn't burning a ton of oil, am I damaging anything by driving her burning? besides the plugs?

Thanks for the help... it is not my daily driver... I just don't want to be without it for a mega long time as I had hoped to autocross it some this summer and start having some fun. I don't want it to be down all summer. It doesn't burn a ton of oil... so I am wondering if I wait and just do it once I am done driving her for the summer. If I wait until this winter and do it, maybe if I have to get the manifolds off, I can clean up the engine bay a little and no rush the job to get her back on the road. Do some upgrades in there while I am at it.

It is burning oil so it isn't major. I just want the head fully rebuilt instead of just doing seals, and then later having to do something else. I need to find a good write up on removing the head. I search but didn't find it. The one int he FSM is a little confusing, I need non-mechanic speak and good tips like the one you mentioned. Thanks.

I need to get the head rebuilt on my 75 280z. (we are pretty sure it is the head). Anyhow I have two options right now and I want some recommendations. I take the head off (which I have never done but I got some guys who will help) and take it to a local machine shop that said it would be between 250 and 350 to do the complete job. Then I get a gasket kit and put it back on. Or the second option is that I buy a rebuilt one from Datsun Parts LLC (http://www.datsunpartsllc.com/) which is around $400 plus shipping... then I get a gasket kit and install it. Anyone have experience with that engine rebuilder? I figure that at least will be less down time for my car. It is driveable now and I just put up with the smell (its not that bad anyways). Then I get to keep my head and then in the future if needed get that one rebuilt and maybe do a performance upgrade on it someday and swap it back. Or do I save the little bit of money and use my local shop? The guys in the SCCA here recommended the engine shop and said they do good work. I am new... I tried searching to find info on that supplier and this topic and didn't find much so don't flame me on the search function...

Is an aftermarket cam on this motor worth the money? I see the kit from MSA is 800 bucks... for that I would rather put money aside for a motor swap and drive it smokin til she blows... Right now I just want to get it road worthy, autocross her a few times this summer and make plans for more serious work in the future when the money tree finally grows in the backyard.

Doing some research, and I see some vendors who sell rebuilt heads for $400... figure it would be a DIY job for me to swap them right? I also see some heads for like $1000... I know there are different models but once again as a newbe I don't know all the differences between models yet. Still too new to the Z community. I am not sure how many miles are on the motor. I don't think its the original one (the trans for sure was swapped from auto to man).

I did a search and I found parts list for a complete engine rebuild, or replacing the valve seals. So don't harp on me for not searching... My shop is telling me they think my oil burning is from bad valve seals or valve guides. They recommended a machine shop that does that type of work and I am going to get it over there later this week. As I posted before... I am new to Datsuns... and don't have experience/tools/time to tackle this type of project. That is why it is at a shop for most of the heavier mechanical stuff. I have a 1975 280Z... So assuming they are gonna pull the head, while it is off, what types of things should I do at the same time? What kind of money/time are we looking at here? My wallet isn't a bottomless pit... but I also don't want to miss an opportunity to save on duplicate labor and get stuff done all at the same time. I don't want them to talk me into stuff I don't need, or won't help increase performance or reliability but just something they want to tack on to make more money. Note: I read all about my issue on the forum and I think the diag is correct. She smokes on start up, and its worse the longer she sits. If I drive her daily (or at least start her up) she doesn't start to smoke until I get her warmed up well and then she smokes a little. Checked compression and it was good in all cylinders. Ideas, suggestions, tips?