cruceno21

I have one with some light surface rust because the car it came from had a super cheap paint job. I am not sure how shipping that big item would be to Hawaii though. Here is a pic of my panel. Whatever you buy you will have to sand and paint it anyways. Let me know and I can box it and see how much shipping will be.

I am in north central Indiana... and I would be interested if someone is making a half cage and we can order two of them. Keep me in the loop if you hear of someone who makes them easily for us.

I can take pics of a spare that I have. Trying to think of what stuff I need for possible trade.

I have one in a junkyard car I take stuff from. The rubber boot is shot, but the metal ring is good. You are talking about the metal ring that holds the rubber inner boot to the trans tunnel right? I bet $5 shipping, so name a price on top of that and I will go snag it and send it to you.

looking for one without the side vent. Do some people just plug the vent? IF so with what? I rather get a clean one with no vent though.

The one I have was removed from a car with a manual, not sure if it was swapped in though... I do have a 78 in a junkyard here that has a guage in it and that is a factory manual.

I have one, I can dig it up tonight, I am pretty sure MPH is the primary marking since it was a USA car it came from but I will double check tonight and get you a picture. PM a price for it. Hate to break up the entire set of gauges... but no one ever made me an offer on the entire set.

Did you find one? I am looking for as well...

I have a set of 78 belts that mount above the strut towers. It comes with everything you need and the strut tower caps. I decided not to use them, I'd let them go for $50 shipped for the set. (I can send black or brown strut tower covers).

Do you mean the metal clips that clip the leather shift boot to the console? If so I have a set. PM me.

I have a thread in the for sale section: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94059-random-280z-parts/page__p__886119#entry886119 Make me an offer on the stuff you need. I have a set of arm rests and driver side lower dash trim, I wasn't planning to sell those but if you want some other parts I will make it a package. PM me an offer on stuff.

I have one I pulled from a working junkyard car. I have not tested it though, but the car was clearly totaled (and that is why it was in the junkyard) so it had to be running when it got smashed. Send me an offer on it and I can ship it out ASAP. I also have a good AFM boot as well if you need one of those.

I have a lens in a broken assembly so I can part it out. Message me an offer and I can get you a pick of it. Let me dig it out.

I do have a a white wire to the starter, but that wire goes directly to the white "in" on the alternator fusible link. So I know on that one which line will come out of the fusible link. The problem is how to know which is the out wire on the other fusible link. I got a voltmeter and this weekend am going to play around and see if which of the sides shows power when I disconnect the link. That should tell me which one is sending power into the fusible link.

Here is what the wiring looks like.... white to white and WR to WR. Just trying to find some help here.

Confirmed. Only one wire comes from the battery to the Fusible link. It is the white wire which the other side goes to the shunt and then alternator (the 80amp) The 40 amp hsa two WR wires and bother go back into the wireharness heading towards the cabin. So how do I check which one is power? COULD I.... Wire the fuse block in, get power from the starter, I know the white out wire will come from the 80 amp fuse. What if I take both of the WR wires and run them out of 40 amp fuses? One of them would be supplying power and one taking.... then I could pull each fuse to see which one doesn't do anything? Because that is the ignition switch one. If I remove the one which is doing something it won't start? So then I know which one is good and which one I can remove? Or do I need to keep both of those wires? I wish I had a 77-78 like all the write ups... OR should I wait on this mod until I learn more about wiring, get an voltmeter and then do the Alt upgrade at the same time? Help please.

I am working on updating my 75 280z to maxi fuses for my fusible link but I am not sure which wires go to what since all writes up out there are on 77-78 models. I might just wait on that (since my links work now) and do it once I go with an upgraded alternator and really simplify the wiring. I bookmarked this thread. Good info and I think should be fairly similar to my 75 model.

I start cutting the tape off... lots of the wires (as it shows in the diagram) just go to the shunt. All that is for is for the voltmeter right? I want to go with an aftermarket one soon so I am wondering if I should just cut all of that out? I have seen gauges that come with their own wiring and stuff and then I can hide that a little better. The harness is spliced a lot, all factory spices from what I can tell but it is messy and I am really worried I am going to end up with some loose connections after I do all of this.

I always document my projects with pics... I am just not good at wiring. I need to get a multilmetter, but am wondering what would I be measuring? If I have the battery discounted while doing electrical work it won't read anything right? If I leave the battery hooked up, should I cut the wires below the fusible link box and measure across those? Also, can I toss the seat belt relay since it says those are only for auto trans and mine has been swapped? Some pics of me removing the bracket.

I penciled them in the manual I have.... but it doesn't help. I am not electrician either... but from the drawing I want to fuse the wires that go to the Alt and to C-5. Right? IF so that is the two WR wires right? So is the Fusible link box have the wires not coming into it matched with the jumper wires? I am confused... I can take pics of my set up later when I start chasing wires. I was hoping someone had the answer like the two front wires, or the two WR ones... thought this was going to be easier. Other thoughts on reading this diagram?

Okay so I have searched... and I have read the stuff here (http://www.atlanticz...inks/index.html) and also looked at the 75 Wiring Diagram (attached). I have a couple questions. For the 76 and up, it is clear in the wiring diagrams that the White wires all go to the starter for power. The RW ones go to their respective items. (each fusible link has a white wire to it, and a RW wire) So now for my 75 (originally an auto but swapped to man) the alternator link has two W wires going to it, and the ignition one has both RW wires going to/from it. Now some of this might be from my swap done by the PO, but I have no white wire to the starter. I have the battery cable and smaller red cable. I have not had the time yet to strip down the entire harness to see what that red white goes to, and where the W and RW wires go. I am assuming that red white is not stock (looks newer) and is supposed to be the white wire that I would replace with a thicker wire to my fuse block. So which wires are the power to the link and which ones are the out wire that would be the ones coming out of the fuse block? As far as a wire directly from the starter on the 75 there is only one, and it one of the white wires coming from the (alternator) black link. I have the bracket out of the car and I am painting it right now. All the wires are all still hooked up, just laying in there without the bracket right now. If I get this all done I can do a write up and post pictures of how this is done on a 75. I just can't read this diagram well enough to know which side of the links are my "out" wires that I need to keep and which ones I ditch. Bonus question... the seat belt relay, can I just remove that? Mine was an AT so it has it, but it was swapped so if that is not needed I won't reinstall it. One less thing to bolt under the bracket when I put it back in. Thanks guys. 75_schematic_diagram.pdf

I just got the car this spring, it has some aftermarket springs on it that are old as all get out... so I think I am a tad lower than stock. I am running 225/50s, I rub a little in the black.

I got finally... posted somewhere here about them. Here are some pics.

No one really helped on here... but yeah my shop ordered a few plugs and we found one that fit. We could not find a part number for the plug on the end so we just measured the hole and ordered some in that size to see what fit best. I have not notice it leaking more, but I have not changed the gear oil yet and I need to do that as well. One thing at a time.

Got my white seats... got these from the junkyard out of a 2+2. They are in good shape, only one tiny tear on the pass side bottom half of the seat on the the side. Got the pair of seats, taillights, and tons of other small items for $75. Now need to clean these up and spray them black!