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Ejkej

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About Ejkej

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 06/15/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Poland
  • Interests
    rear wheels horse power

Contact Methods

  • Skype
    mercurius_olsztyn
  1. Mikelly, your Z looks great and seems to be used in a great way as well! Here is a recent pic of mine, which I find to be the best I have seen so far:
  2. You are right, it is 2,5 of a turn. As for the bump travel - I will check it and let You know.
  3. The adjustment is on top only. They have ca 1,5 of a total turn from soft to hard. I had them set up on full hard in front and about 2/3 of a turn in rear.
  4. @ Daphur: Yes I got the svx diff work with my 280z. In short: I redrilled holes for the 280z drive shaft in the subi diff flange, I drilled 2 additional holes in the mustache bar for narrower R160 rear mounting and used additional spacers between the mustache bar and diff cover. Also I nedded to machine the svx axles to match the stock 280z ones: @ johnc: thanks fo answering John... I have koni race inserts on 4 corners with eibach 250 springs. Do You have any suggestions on how to try to setup such a combo? As far as I remember I tried to use tips from "how to" by beta motors
  5. Ejkej

    Clutch problem

    up... sorry, double-post...
  6. Ejkej

    Clutch problem

    OK, It has been 8 months since I started this topic, but - as promised - I am back with some more info... I removed the transmission for the winter in order to check 2 things: - slipping clutch - hard and noisy 3rd gear when shifting As for the clutch I noticed that the collar with the bearing has problem with travelling on the mainshaft. It gets stuck in about half way and doesn't move further. On the pictures I marked with green arrows the places where the problem occurs: When the clutch is depressed the bearing is traveling back, in the second picture the gre
  7. As for the welded diff - my friend claims the same - he has no problems with predicting the car, but maybe the reason is that with welded diff you have constant power on both wheels... With VLSD everything was OK until slowing down. I am the last one to blame the diff for my performance - my first thought was: OK, I need to learn how to drive this thing, but the opinion on 2-way LSD comes from a person who has major experience with rally drivetrains. Now I need yours. Other cars were spinning as well : But I drove there before and had rather problems with understeeri
  8. I run a 4,44 ratio with '75 4 speed. I was amazed by the crisp acceleration when starting from 0, for some reason however my performance was worse than when using 3,90. I think that traction while accelerating might be an issue - especially when wet. In my case - when combined with vlsd traction was also an issue when decelarating in a corner.
  9. Hi! First of all: I went a different way than most of You guys go when choosing a diff swap. I decided to use subi R160 diffs, as R180 are difficult to buy and rather expensive here. I was hoping that R160 will endure 200 BHP engine... unfortunately it did not. The spider gears are the weak point, just as written in the FAQ section, so I found a SVX subaru diff (vlsd) with rear axles - and I think that it solved the durability problem. When dry the car was much more predictable and I was very happy - I felt that I can control the oversteer with throttle - I didn't feel that way w
  10. Ejkej

    Clutch problem

    OK Guys, thanks for the help, I will try to work on it and then post feedback.
  11. Ejkej

    Clutch problem

    Hmmm, I remember that last time I installed the slave cylinder I needed to press the rod quite deep into the slave cylinder in order to make it fit the fork... Zmanco, can You explain the test You suggested? Should there be no pressure on the fork or/and on the rod when mounting the slave cylinder? Thanks!
  12. Ejkej

    Clutch problem

    Some additional info: - the pressure plate came with the bearing and disc, however it was dedicated for a 200sx (I find it difficult to buy clutch sets dedicated to S30 in EU, so I went that route). We used the stock 280Z collar with that bearing - as far as I remember that new bearing has bigger diameter than stock, other dimensions are the same. - I am starting to think that the hydraulics might cause this issue - as Leon suggested - the problem occured after changing 2 things: lightening the flywheel and replacing the slave cylinder. Any change made after that (replacing clutch kit, 2 x
  13. Ejkej

    Clutch problem

    Sorry... the car is a '75 280Z NA with stock 4sp transmission. The clutch is as I have written - lightened stock flywheel, 6 puck ACT disc, HD pressure plate (beefier than the stock one). As for the slave - Iremember I replaced stock one with some other dedicated to newer Nissan - I guess it was a 200sx or 240sx. But I can't remember 100%. I didn't check the bearing movement. As for the break-in procedures - I did bleed the system and checked if the clutch was working... but that's it generally. Thanks
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