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Ejkej

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Everything posted by Ejkej

  1. Mikelly, your Z looks great and seems to be used in a great way as well! Here is a recent pic of mine, which I find to be the best I have seen so far:
  2. You are right, it is 2,5 of a turn. As for the bump travel - I will check it and let You know.
  3. The adjustment is on top only. They have ca 1,5 of a total turn from soft to hard. I had them set up on full hard in front and about 2/3 of a turn in rear.
  4. @ Daphur: Yes I got the svx diff work with my 280z. In short: I redrilled holes for the 280z drive shaft in the subi diff flange, I drilled 2 additional holes in the mustache bar for narrower R160 rear mounting and used additional spacers between the mustache bar and diff cover. Also I nedded to machine the svx axles to match the stock 280z ones: @ johnc: thanks fo answering John... I have koni race inserts on 4 corners with eibach 250 springs. Do You have any suggestions on how to try to setup such a combo? As far as I remember I tried to use tips from "how to" by beta motorsport (which I think was attached to the Konis)... I know it is a complex process, but...
  5. Ejkej

    Clutch problem

    up... sorry, double-post...
  6. Ejkej

    Clutch problem

    OK, It has been 8 months since I started this topic, but - as promised - I am back with some more info... I removed the transmission for the winter in order to check 2 things: - slipping clutch - hard and noisy 3rd gear when shifting As for the clutch I noticed that the collar with the bearing has problem with travelling on the mainshaft. It gets stuck in about half way and doesn't move further. On the pictures I marked with green arrows the places where the problem occurs: When the clutch is depressed the bearing is traveling back, in the second picture the green arrow on the right shows the part that fits perfectly on the mainshaft and bearing sleeve on the front cover, but then there is this "deeper" section in the collar (marked blue) - this is causing it to move (transverse) a little bit. The collar travels further back until the part marked with the second green arrow (the one to the left) meets the throwout bearing sleeve marked with green arrow on the first picture... Do You think this causes my clutch to slip?
  7. As for the welded diff - my friend claims the same - he has no problems with predicting the car, but maybe the reason is that with welded diff you have constant power on both wheels... With VLSD everything was OK until slowing down. I am the last one to blame the diff for my performance - my first thought was: OK, I need to learn how to drive this thing, but the opinion on 2-way LSD comes from a person who has major experience with rally drivetrains. Now I need yours. Other cars were spinning as well : But I drove there before and had rather problems with understeering - caused by conditions and speed. I am also wondering if the final gear ratio can be a partial reason here, with 3,90 open diff I had no such problems. Now I run 4,44. The tires were Yokohama AD08 and after 1 run (when it became obvious that it will rain) - Uniroyal Rainsport2, both in very good condition, both with low pressure, also the rear sway bar was unbolted after 1 run.
  8. I run a 4,44 ratio with '75 4 speed. I was amazed by the crisp acceleration when starting from 0, for some reason however my performance was worse than when using 3,90. I think that traction while accelerating might be an issue - especially when wet. In my case - when combined with vlsd traction was also an issue when decelarating in a corner.
  9. Hi! First of all: I went a different way than most of You guys go when choosing a diff swap. I decided to use subi R160 diffs, as R180 are difficult to buy and rather expensive here. I was hoping that R160 will endure 200 BHP engine... unfortunately it did not. The spider gears are the weak point, just as written in the FAQ section, so I found a SVX subaru diff (vlsd) with rear axles - and I think that it solved the durability problem. When dry the car was much more predictable and I was very happy - I felt that I can control the oversteer with throttle - I didn't feel that way with open diff. However the problem occured on a wet, slip surface - when decelarating the car suddenly started oversteering in a very abrupt way. I know the conditions on this track and was trying to drive defensively, but even a slight lift of a throttle caused a spin out. Yesterday I spoke to a guy who said that a 2-way LSD in a RWD car is very difficult to control - especially when wet. What do You think? To be frank, now I am afraid to take my Z for a drive on a rainy day - I was so astonished with how the car felt... I really don't know if it is safe. BTW, below the video where You can see the spin outs: 0:11; 0:53; 2:36; 3:02. Thanks, Andrzej
  10. Ejkej

    Clutch problem

    OK Guys, thanks for the help, I will try to work on it and then post feedback.
  11. Ejkej

    Clutch problem

    Hmmm, I remember that last time I installed the slave cylinder I needed to press the rod quite deep into the slave cylinder in order to make it fit the fork... Zmanco, can You explain the test You suggested? Should there be no pressure on the fork or/and on the rod when mounting the slave cylinder? Thanks!
  12. Ejkej

    Clutch problem

    Some additional info: - the pressure plate came with the bearing and disc, however it was dedicated for a 200sx (I find it difficult to buy clutch sets dedicated to S30 in EU, so I went that route). We used the stock 280Z collar with that bearing - as far as I remember that new bearing has bigger diameter than stock, other dimensions are the same. - I am starting to think that the hydraulics might cause this issue - as Leon suggested - the problem occured after changing 2 things: lightening the flywheel and replacing the slave cylinder. Any change made after that (replacing clutch kit, 2 x replacing clutch disc) didn't solve that problem... I don't think that flywheel could cause that - I checked it twice and it was straight. The slave cylinder is from other Nissan - and I am not sure if it isn't "self-adjusting", and maybe the rod lenght/work are different than stock. What do You think?
  13. Ejkej

    Clutch problem

    Sorry... the car is a '75 280Z NA with stock 4sp transmission. The clutch is as I have written - lightened stock flywheel, 6 puck ACT disc, HD pressure plate (beefier than the stock one). As for the slave - Iremember I replaced stock one with some other dedicated to newer Nissan - I guess it was a 200sx or 240sx. But I can't remember 100%. I didn't check the bearing movement. As for the break-in procedures - I did bleed the system and checked if the clutch was working... but that's it generally. Thanks
  14. Hi Guys, here is the story: After buying my Z I didn't have much ocassions to drive it before restoration, but I don't recall that problem. When rebuilding I decided to lighten the flywheel using tips on the "safe" weight reduction found here on hybridZ. When finished the restoration, which included replacing the clutch disk, I noticed that after few minutes of spirited driving the clutch was starting to slip. This winter, when I was working on the engine (now ca 200 BHP, 250 Nm) I replaced the clutch with "stronger" road-race set (disk, clutch cover, bearing), supposed to work fine up to 350 lbs. After few days, again, the clutch started to slip. I quickly found 6 puck ACT clutch disk, replaced it, and today - after few weeks - it started to slip again... The clutch disk size is stock (225 mm). Did any of You have similar problems? What could be the reason? My guesses are: flywheel deformation under load (possible??), driving technique (lack of it)...
  15. Hi, I swapped a subaru outback diff into my 280Z, becuase of the short ratio I was looking for - I had 3,90 and now have 4,44 ratio installed. I use original 280Z half-shafts - the 4 bolt flange was welded to each subi inner side axle. What I found very useful when searching for subi specs was this site: carfolio where You can choose exact model and check final gear ratio. I also found this info on subi diffs: subaru_ratios.pdf
  16. OK, I will go with oil with lesser viscosity next time I change it. Thanks!
  17. Thanks for your opinions! As for the oil - I decided to use this particular oil after recommendation of my friends, who have experience in building rally and race engines - I know it has different specs than oils recommended by the manual. However, I plan to use Motul LeMans 300V 10W50 - next time I will change the oil. After weekend I will check the oil pressure with mechanical gauge, I have checked the valve in the oil pump and it is working, however the spring used in a new pump seems to be "stronger" than the one used before rebuilding. Today I spent few hours on a dyno and have all set to following results: Max BHP: 206 at 6000RPM Max Torque: 253 at 5000RPM The number were ca 10 points better, but with higher operating temperature, the preignition knocking occurred around 5000, so we had to change the ignition map. The oil pressure was moving between 45-85 (reading the stock gauge).
  18. Guys, once again I need your help - Today I have driven my car for the first time after rebuilding the engine. It is a n42/n42 combo with flattops, itbs, 0,5mm overbored, ca 10,5:1 CR, around 210 psi on all 6 when warm,Oil is 10w60 castrol edge racing. After few miles I noticed that the oil pressure rises to almost 90 at the gauge and after lifting foot from gas pedal it slightly decreases. But it operates in a higher range than before rebuilding... When rebuilding a new oil pump was installed, ITM brand. I know there is a pressure valve in the pump that might be stuck, but maybe You have other suggestions? The engine isn't yet tuned - I am going to for a dyno session on Saturday to set AFR and timing for best effects, but is it safe with such a high oil pressure? Thanks in advance!
  19. Heh, 200 HP on the wheels? I can only imagine how fun it is to drive! As for the wideband - I plan to use narrow O2, however for setting the engine up on a dyno the wideband will be used. I liked those ITBs from the first time I saw them... and now they fit my Frankenstein engine very well Yesterday I measured the compression on cold engine, just cranking it - 180 PSI on all 6.
  20. Thanks for the tip on screws. I am planning to tighten them using Loctite once everything will be dynoed and calibrated. It should be enough... As for the power goals... I am not sure how high the numbers will be. Last year I dynoed the engine in its stock specification and it showed 151 HP/155 ft lbs measured on the engine. The compression was ca 130 PSI on all 6. The guy who did the maths for my setup estimates the power at 215-220 HP, anyway it will be an improvement Here You can see the dyno chart from last year: Thanks, Andrzej
  21. I did the rack swap following instructions I have found here on Hybridz, for example here is an interesting link: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/46504-lt1-and-subaru-rack/ Apart from having PS and probably quicker response it is very important for me to be able to use subaru outer tie rods, which are available here. As for my plans - I plan to start in amateur racing events - something between race and auto_X. They take place on racetracks, old aeroplane landing zones. I posted this video earlier but it will give You the general idea of those events: http://www.youtube.com./watch?v=PPEqDOYPDTI Thanks
  22. Those ITBs are custom built by Hybridz user - Z-ya. It is a combination of EFI flange/SU intake/280zx TBs. The process of building was described some time ago. The "thing" in place of A/C is a power steering pump from subaru, it will work with subaru rack:
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