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I want to share with you with some pictures from my engine rebuild It is a N42/N42 combo. valve seats valves chamber cc-ing new camshaft sprocket new camshaft 276/276 duration 8mm/8mm lobe lift head and camshaft installed - notice that the sprocket has been reworked to allow adjustment engine almost assembled from the front - You can see EDIS wheel and trigger and subaru power steering pump installed Head chamber have been polished, intake/exhaust bored and polished, valve guides replaced. Bottom of the engine has been drilled +0.5mm with new ITM flattops, crank polished and checked for straight. Estimated CR 10:1-10,5:1. Thanks for all the help I got from You!

Thank You my Friend!

Thanks Leon! Just to be 100% sure - will those fit my engine without problems? - the shop mentioned above suggested that there are some piston pins differences in late models.

Hi I am in the proccess of rebuilding my engine: I ordered flattop pistons, the guy asked what year was my car. I told him that I needed flattops I want to install in my '75 l28. I paid for the pistons + 80 USD shipping + 100 USD duty taxes... and after waiting 2 weeks I received dished pistons. That really ruined my day. Now I want to be sure there will be no such mistake again, so I ask for your help: From what year of production and which model I need to buy flattop pistons to fit my '75 280Z N42? Thanks!

Thanks Tony!

Hi Guys, I need your help. I am preparing my '75 280Z for track days I plan to attend this year. I decided I won't be needing A/C and cruise control systems so I removed them from my car. I want to know what kind of parts are those. Both don't look like original Datsun systems, both were made in USA. The fit however was "as stock", so I think, that maybe, they were added by dealers - as options, when buying a new car. 1. I would like to know if any of you recognize those parts, and - if yes - could give me any info on them? 2. What do you think is the approx value of those? Both systems were working with no issues before removing, however A/C should go through a inspection befor installing - just to be sure there are no leaks. Thanks! Andrzej

I would love to go that route, but unfortunately, S130 (as well as other Dats) parts are very rare in Europe, and shipping costs from US make it too expensive. Thanks.

John, thanks for answering!

Hi Guys! I know that other options were discussed here and I've read the topic on the R-180 installation, but want your opinion on the R-160. WRX diffs are common and relatively cheap - opposing to the STI ones, and my main goal is not LSD but 3.9, 4,11 gear ratio. The question is - would installing a R-160 be similar to R-180? Can I go the same route? Swapping drive-shaft flange, and fabricating R-160 axles so they fit the stock 280Z flanges? Are there any cons of that sollution? I know that R-160s are weaker than R-180, but my HP goals are not huge - I will be happy if I achieve 170-180 HP on the wheels. Is there anything that makes this swap impossible/very difficult? OK, I have found some info on R-160 on zcar: - should be good for auto-x events - the temp might be an issue - hard launching as well - that might be a problem I like to step my foot down hard. Any experience? Thanks!

Thanks Guys!

So just to be certain: Can I swap gears from R200 shortnose into R200 longnose to achieve the gear ratio I am looking for (3,9; 4,11)? R200 shortnose are sometimes available here, since they were installed in quite common in Europe 200sx. Thanks!

OK Guys, below my white '75 280Z, repainted with color matching its original - i think 904 white:

Thanks for the tip Nelsonian, that is a great thread!

Yesterday's photos taken at the underground parking:

Thank you all for comments Below some new pics:

Yes, they came dry, but it did put grease into them . Thanks for answers! Any info where I can buy genuine Nissan parts for my 280Z? I need a shop where I can pay with paypal, and one that ships outside US... Thanks!

Thanks for your reply, Blown77Z. Any other suggestions?

As in description - I bought a cheap set of those on ebay, installed them, and now have huge play in front suspension - first time noticed it during inspection, but thought that it was impossible that the ball-joints were already destroyed (only ca 200 miles after rebuild), also I didn't notice any problems with steering... until yesterday. Now I feel the steering wheel shaking when heavy braking or tight cornering. My only guess for the reason they got worn so quickly is that their quality was crappy. My question is - which brand or shop you recommend for buying those? I have modified suspension with Koni/eibach coilovers and camberplates. Thanks, Andrzej

Guys, Today I got my Z registered. For that reason I'm gonna get drunk tommorow - It was a year of hard work on this project. Thanks for sharing useful information! Below some not-so-good pictures, sorry for that! Greetings from Poland!

OK, I think I have found the answer - the mustache bars on 280Z and 240Z seem to be installed in different(oposite) direction... at least that's what I saw on some pictures showing Z's rear suspension.

Hi! I've got the same problem - with regular front mount on my '76 280Z. I can't install the differential in it's place on a crossmember. After attaching it to the mustache bar I can't push it enough towards the rear... I have the mustache bar installed as shown in the manual - that way it leaves less place for the diff. Any help?

Thanks for Your answer, I don't think it is a original A/C system, it has "made in USA" marks. It looks like systems sold by MSA, but I am not sure - it was installed when I bought the car.

Heheh, Yeah I know , but...

Hi All, I need Your help. I have a problem with the black wire which You can see on picture below. Where should it go to? Is it a "ground" wire or perhaps should it be connected with a/c compressor or something else...? BTW grey one goes to the A/C ON-OFF switch on the center console. Thanks!

I think that's the one: 260z 2+2