karay240

If you have any questions regarding the accusump or any other RB26 questions, check out a couple of out these pages: http://rbmotoring.com/gallery/album162 http://rbmotoring.com/gallery/album108 There are other semi to very useful stuff regarding the RB, but there's way to much crap to sort through check it out whenever you guys have time. I hope this will be some help for the RB guys. Even if you're not, some of the stuff is pretty interesting. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

W/ every new law that's passed, we're getting one step closer to the "Red". (that's communism for readers that are too young to remember. lol.) All in the name of the "Greater Good." As for the comment by Pop N Wood about ppl growing their own marijuana, how many ppl do you know grow their own tobacco, or brew their own whiskey? In the end, it's pretty much going to be the same thing. At first, there will be ppl growing their own; however, once they realize that it's cheaper/better/less hassle to buy it, I think there will a lot of $$$ to be made by the government. Not only more $$$ to be made, but a LOT less money to be wasted on the Govn't's end in continuing this Drug Crusade. If you don't believe me, check out the movie/documentary "Grass" @ your local movie rental store. It is one sided, but then what documentary isn't. And maybe, just maybe, if they make enough $$$, there could stop passing laws that infringe on our rights of freedom. Just my $0.02, and no, I am NOT a smoker. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

They are the same as the SR20 injectors. Sidefeed high impedance. Also, they require the adaptor rings just like the SR, too, so if you get them from a shop that's clueless, make sure to ask for the adaptors ($30~40/ea.) Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

I have not really had the time to research the V8s that much as we are REALLY busy @ the shop; however, there is talk about a build of the VQ35 motor. As many of you know, the VQ is the new engine of choice for for nissan. It's used in many applications (from truck, sedan, to sports car) AND it's around the same price as buying an SR20DET. Anyway, the thought of using the VQ40 internals came up for a project we had. We had anticipated that the castings were different, so we contacted several ppl that might know. We talked to Darton about sleeves for the VQ40 and found out that the deck hight is over a .5 inches taller than the VQ35. The intro got a little too long, but what I'm saying is that even if the 5.6L crank happens to fit in the VH (or the smaller VK), I think that you could be running into many other clearance issues. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

Before we get started on how to in crease revs, I'd like to know why and how much do you want to increase the redline. Also, whether or not it's going to be a street car is a key point in building a motor. That being said, I think you're on the right track w/ balancing the bottom-end. The main ingredient to high revs that actually make power is headwork, headwork, and headwork. No matter how balanced the bottom-end is, unless you've got the airflow to support those revs, going past red-line is going to be pointless. If this car is going to be driven primarily as a street car, I would probably keep the redline at the stock level. With any OEM motor, there are improvements you can make to bump up the power throughout the rev range; however, once you have done everything you can, then you are going to have to "just move the power band" around to make more power at high RPM. It is possible to make over 300 naturally aspirate horsepower from the L series motors, and the redline will be high, but it will be a PITA to drive on the streets, due to the lack of low-end torque. Anyway, back to your question. In order to make more revs that count, you will need WELL DESIGNED AND EXECUTED head work (porting/polish and a very tight combustion chamber), a high lift cam, bigger carbs, and a very good header. (oh, I'm not sure of the braking point of the stock pistons and rods, so if anyone has any insight, that'd be great--I'd be safe and change those out, too.) Before you spend a dime on the motor, look up all of the stuff you think you'll need to acomplish your goals. Then multiply that number by 1.5. That will probably be closer to the amount that you'll be spending. I'm not advocating that you should go w/ a different motor. I just want you to know what you'd be getting yourself into for the HP you'll be getting out. I think that pretty much covers it, but it's early in the morning (for me, anyway), and I'm tired. If I failed to include some blatantly obvious point, I'm sorry. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

The center of gravity is a good enought reason; however, I think that he had other issues to deal w/. Perhapse the K-member? lol. If the motor were any closer, the car would have no room for the rack. He had to modify as it is now. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

I completely agree w/ naplesZ. Use the VQ motor. There are a LOT more options for performance parts, and a whole lot more to come in the future. If you get used to the 300ishHP, you can bump it up to a 4.2 (or was it 4.3, whatever). The MOST you'd get out of an N/A RB26 is going to be less than the stock VQ35 output, and for around half the price. In some cases, better engineering can be a replacement for displacement; however, there is no replacemet for better engineering AND displacement. That's what the VQ35 is to the RB26. I think that you'd be disapointed w/ the N/A SR in there. I'm not sure how the F20 will do, but probably pretty well. I doubt that you're going to beat the high revving N/A sound of the S2000 motor, but it also depends on what type of sound you're going for. I think that the VQ35 is better in that it will make more power than any other options listed, the fact that it is the most economically feasible, and that there are so many cars with these motors in them. Or you could get creative and get the VQ40 that's in the truck (taller deck hight), and build that up. That motor will probably be harder to come by, but cool none the less. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

The OS head was made during a time period where none of the major manufacturers (OEM manufacturers like nissan) were affraid of ppl thinking that they were wasteful during the time of the oil shock. OS made those heads w/ simple hand tools, and that's why they are so rare, and soooo expensive (yes, the whole thing is practically hand-made.) This is also the reason that they utilized rockerarms, instead of using direct acting cams (they didn't have the tooling to do it.) Anyway, OS had really good success w/ these heads in racing. They were able to get well over 320hp (w/ no forced induction!!!) After their success, and the oil shock became less of an issue, Nissan's racing dept (I think it was called Nismo then, too) came out w/ their version of it w/ a 2 valves per cylinder (the OS one is 4 valves per cylinder, and the conbustion chanber looks like that of the RB26.) I'm not sure how well it would be w/ forced induciton, but I know that w/ NA trim, it's not 5~6% gains. I think that it's a neat idea to have a twin cam head from OS, but the cost performance just isn't there when you compare it to swapping another motor in it, whether a V8, RB, 1J, SR, or whatever. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

No, I'm not planning on street racing or anything like that. . . it's just that I'm a little cautious. One of my friends got pulled over while he was driving home in his SR20 powered 240SX. He was pulled over because the cop saw the intercooler. The cop claimed that the 240SX shouldn't have an intercooler since it's a non-turbo car. The cop made the guy pop the hood, and that was all she wrote. The guy didn't get his car impounded like I've heared happen to some, but his wallet is in a word of hurt right now. The court room isn't my favorate place to be, so I'm just trying to make sure. lol. -Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

Your "cheapest"/easiest tranny option is the RB25 tranny. These are RWD trannies, and the internals are VERY similar to that of the 300ZX (Z32). If you're serious about the Supra tranny, there are two options: 1. have a VERY VERY competent shop weld the bell-housings of the supra and the RB trannies together. . . this method is expensive, and is not guaranteed to work. 2. your easiers, albiet not the cheapest, would be to get the Skyline R34 Getrag tranny (uber expensive), get the Supra Getrag tranny (not too cheap), and bolt them together. The second one has been done before in Japan a couple of times, since it's not that hard to find an R34 tranny. We're talking about doing something like this in one of our shop cars, but nothing's set in stone. If you're interested in the second option, we have a couple of R34 trannies laying around. We're also getting the Supra 6 speed comming on a container in a couple of weeks. I will warn you, though. . . it's not going to be cheap. I'm guessing the total cost of obtaining the trannies will cost around $4k. All that just for the extra cog? I don't think it's worth it. . . Get the RB25 tranny. The going price for those are around 800-1000, and can handle a good amount of power. . . . oh, by the way, there are several companies making mustache bars w/ provisions for the R200. This diff should hold up just fine. The R200 is the diff that nissan used on many cars, and the gearing options are practically limitless, and the chance you're going to break is not too likey (depending on power levels, of course). I seriously doubt that you'll be breaking either one (RB25 tranny or the R200 diff). The Z is such a light car that the strain on those parts will be minimal. Besides, you're going to have to worry about other stuff breakig at that power level. -Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

Hey Dan Juday, I was wondering what size wheel/tire combo you were running? I'm also curious asto how wide the front and rear track are on your car. I'm expecting to do a similar kind of widebody, and I need to know before I buy. I'm expecting to do the IRS swap, so the track info would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm trying to keep everything balanced. I'd rather not have to run 265s in the rear and 225 in the front (just as an example). Thanks for your help -Kenny

I've been looking around for a good candidate for the shell of my project. I'd rather get the 280Z due to it's stiffer chassis, but the issue of smog check is always dangling over Californians' heads. I've heard many different and contradicting stories regarding the exemptions of different years. I've searched/asked around, but w/ nothing concrete. So here's what I'm wondering: What year is your car, and do you have to smog it? I'm wanting personal accounts of whether or not YOU have to. NOT "yea, my friend BillyBob hasn't had to smogg his car in years." type of second hand info. I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one who's wondered this, and I've tried the "search" feature. I've read the article about the smog thing, but I want to see if that's personally had any affect on anyone. Another thing is when dealing w/ the police. . . has anyone had to pop their hood? I'm assuming/hoping that since it's a test exempt car, it doesn't matter, but, again, I just wanna know before I spend waaaay too much $$$. Thanks for your help. -Kenny

Before I give anyone false hope, I'd like to say that caps are ppl, too, and they can almost do whatever they want to (depending on their mood). That being said, I was driving around w/ one of my friends (slash customer) from VA in his once legal R32. The reason I say once legal is that he was one of our 1st customers to buy a 50 state legal Skyline, but a little time and money later, the two small turbos were replaced w/ a GT45R, among various other modifications. Long story short, the car is pushing 927 to the wheels, and we got pulled over in City of Industry, CA. This car has a 4 inch turbo back exhaust w/ no cats etc. etc. etc. All the cop did was run his license & registration, and let him go. There were hardly any words spoken, so I'm not 100% sure as to why we got pulled over, but I have a sneeky suspition that it may have been the exhaust. Point is, you definately don't have to meet smog regulations just b/c you're in the state. Besides, you definately won't have to worry about smog even if you lived in cali. It's a '72. Smog exempt. I'm pretty sure there are at least a few ppl on this board that got into the hybridZs for those sacred words-Smog Exempt. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

We mainly specialize in the 26, so I'm not 100% about the 20s; however, I know you can use the RB26 crank and make it 2.4 w/ a little modification. This displacement may be w/ oversized pistons. . . I'm not 100% sure, but I know you can get the RB20 to at least 2.4. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

The swap you're talking about IS possible, and HAS been done. I'm not sure about the question about the x-member, though. I do know that you're going to need the rear sump oil pan that came w/ the RB powered Z. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

but what tranny's going to handle that much torque? . . . not the 300Z tranny. The only options are going to be a domestic tranny (crappy) or a dog box (very expensive!) . . . But I guess if you can afford the Titan motor, you're not hurting for cash either. lol. The reason I mentioned transplanting only the crank and getting the machining done was that it's a lot cheaper than buying a Titan short block. Plus the mounting points, sensors, etc. are probably going to be different Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

I know this is an old thread, but I had to post. If both of the motors are the same block, why not just use the 5.6 crank (I was under the impresstion that it was 5.7 for some reason. . . oh well) and aftermarket pistons etc. . . get a wrecked Q45 (they're even cheap prewrecked. lol), and buy the 5.6 crank, and use aftermarket pistons (and maybe rods, depending on your future goals). That would probably a lot cheaper/simpler than buying an antire 5.6 motor and pieces of the 4.5. Then you wouldn't have to worry about wiring at all, and the only thing new would be internals that you'd have to buy. Thanks for the info on the motors. I have a friend (one of our mechanics) that's getting a Q, and he was a little down, b/c the only parts for the car are offered only in Japan. He's got the VIP style body, wheels, exhaust etc, but no real go fast parts. I'm sure he'll be happy to hear about the 5.7 crank idea. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

Yea, I might know a couple of ppl that might be interested. How much are we talking for the adapter plate? Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

I'm still toying w/ different options on the multilink. We have several S13 ones @ the shop, so I'm probably going to "practice" on one of those. Once I fugure out all there is to, I'm either going w/ R32, 33, or S15 (whichever becomes available at the time) I'm going a little different route than you, though, inthat I'm probably just going to weld it in. It won't be as civilized as the insolated ones, but the subframes I'm thinking about have bughings that isolate the diff (the S13 is rigid mounted), and I'm not going to be getting pillowball arms (okay, maybe the upper control arm and toe control arm. . . but that's it. lol.)

what's up maichor, just had one more question. You said that you used the OEM 240SX rear suspension. Did you use the S13 or 14? I'm beginning to buy parts for this project, and I don't want to get the wrong ones. I'm actually planning on using both the front AND rear coilovers for the 240SX. I'll have to get different spring rates that the average 240SX owner (I'm going SR in my Z), but we'll see how it goes. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

If you're looking for turning radius, I'd say go w/ the 240SX. I'm not sure about the differences b/w the S13 & 14, but I absolutely love the turning radius of my S13. There isn't a whole lot of feedback, and it's a little too light, but w/ a smaller diameter wheel should help out a little. If you're wanting quick steering, get the WRX or the Evo steering rack; if you're wanting a tight turning radius, get the 240SX rack. I'm PLANNING on the S13 rack, but we'll see. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

For the amount of work that would be required for it to work, it's not worth it. It'll be like having a slower S2000. It would require to be revved to the moon, and would NOT be fun to drive. I've seen a ZX11 motor in the old mini cooper (converted to RWD). There were some who liked it, but they all agreed on one thing. . . lack of power. If there's a lack of power in the mini, I'm pretty sure that it would be more noticeable in the Z. The weight of the car would probably be strenuous on the engine that was designed to haul less than half of the weight, and w/ the lack of flywheel it's going to be annoying to drive on the streets (not sure of you're thinking about street driving, but figured I'd throw it in here for good measures). Custom this, custom that, and by the time you know it, you've spent thousands of $$$s on a car that you may or may not like. Once you drive it and don't like the power, then you're probably going to want to turbo it. That's another 4 figure price tag. I'd say stick w/ more common swaps like the V8, I or V6, or turbo I4s from other cars. I guarantee you'll come out happier and less broke. If you're really really liking the idea of a motorcycle engine in a car, use a shaft driven V-max motor and tranny into a metro or something like that. The initial investment isn't a lot, and you'll get that cool sequential I shift pattern. Kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

Lets talk about the actual pros/cons from doing this swap. . . Pros: -lower and farther back center of gravity. -exhaust note(for some) -it'll be different Cons: -Cost and Fabrication--prepare to spend MORE than the RB26 swap. (Don't forget, the STi is not a '95 civic. You are not going to find a whole lot of parts at your local junk yard ) -horrible serviceability--even if you can get it in there, the simplest task of changing spark plugs will become a mechanic's nightmare. . . I've thought about doing this swap into my 240SX, but opted not to after some quick measurements--and the Z's even narrower than the SX -Power--for the price, you could get a RB26 or practically any motor. Despite some of the AWD RWD tranny issues ppl are talking about, it really won't be a big problem. Actually, I'm speculating w/ the 6sp. I have, however, seen several RWD WRXs w/ the 5sp. From what I've been told, all you have to do is to remove the driveshafts (unlike the GTR, EVO, and the majority of the other AWD transmissions) I'd say go w/ an I-4 (SR, 3SGTE) for handling and weight, and the I-6 turbo (1or2JZ, RB25or6) or a V8 (. . . sorry, I'm not sure here) for power. It's a neat idea, but you have to wonder if it's really worth it.

Nice, keep up the good work, and keep us posted on your progress I'm going to go pick up my donor car next week. . . I can't wait 'til I FINALLY start working on mine. Yea, I'm going to have to wait at least a month or two, but when it arrives. . . kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com

You were talking about the 3S. . . my bad, I saw supra and CT and I thought 7M. . . nevermind. Another thing to note is that the 3S is inherently a torqier motor than the SR. If done right the 3S can have more torque than hp until about 400hp. Toyotas, in general, seem to be made that way. That's why I was my 1st candidate for the hybrid, but I'm too poor Anyway, sorry for the screw-up/confuision Kenny