vega
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Posts posted by vega
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Thank you for the advice guys that is exactly what I needed to know.
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So I've been reading, a friend mentioned understeer in his 350z. He went with bigger tires in front and solved his issue. Apparently the 280Z cars have a tendency to "Lift-off oversteer", what would you suggest I do for tires? Same all around? Smaller in front? Etc?
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on the Rocky Auto carbon Z...
I dream to have a set of these in the near future. Volk TE37v (v is for vintage). Although with them costing around $2400, I don't know when that near future will be
what bumper is that?
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If that's all they are worth to you, then by all means. I much prefer stronger, lighter wheels with a brand of higher quality control (This is assuming we are comparing modern, new wheels, if you can find a set of high end wheels for 1k or less in good condition thats awesome).
Good parts are not always expensive brand name, jegs heads are currently afr.
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looks awesome man thanks bunches!
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Complete Custom Wheel (CCW) also has some nice wheels. They are in the low-high $2000 range, which is a pretty good price imo.
Some of that stuff based on how much the metal is worth and how little time it takes to enter things in a cnc program to make them. 2000 is not worth buy a set of rims. 1000 is about what 17s are worth to me. Any more is balogna.
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I am not too worried about breaking anything. Sudden power increases tend to break things, like tq. The custom cam I am having ground will have a very very flat tq/hp curve. Also because it is a smaller motor it will run better with it setup that way at idle. I am running a higher lsa and icl.
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Do you happen to know how much they weigh?
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320 per wheel from centerline (called yesterday) so that makes sense to me. I have don't know if racing lab is legit, has anyone else tried them? I will either be going with xxr 527 16s or the Rota Rb-R rims in 17s. I just want to make sure they will get here in time. Do the RB-r rims from racing lab fit without suspension mods? I am using stock suspension right now.
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tq breaks stuff not hp unless the rpm is too high. its a balancing act.
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so I have read most of this, are there any other (besides centerlines and rotas, located in Philippines pita to get a hold of) 17x8(or more width)rims that fit that don't require spacers of any kind? I have been looking forever. diamand racing turned me down to make autocross rims in that size and I really don't want to run steel rims anyhow. I have no issue cutting the fenders/quarter panels.
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I´m running 235/60/14 and it doesnt have any issues at all, and has good traction with a sbc , torque converter and open diff
Those look like primewell p830s I work for a tire corp that owns them. those are the cheapest tires we sell. i can't imagine that that would hook with a very powerful v8.....
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cable check your pm box
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cool- thanks for the reply, i wont be making that KIND of tq so hopefully i wont snap axles SO fast
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Looks like a Marine engine. Before anything else, have the block checked for cracks and cylinder walls sonic tested for thickness. It's already .040 over on the bore. Even more reason to sonic test.
Knolton's is going to be doing that for me (65$) when I bring the block to him (travis) we are doing it regardless to see if we want to sleeve it or if we can go 60 over (enough material) apparently some of the older blocks had a lot of material even at 40 over according to him. Also good guess it IS a marine engine out of a Owen's flagship yacht . A lot of weird stuff was done to the motor. flat tops diamond cam 40 over etc.
I will update with flow numbers some time this week.
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New project getting all started up just got my heads yesterday. Here are some pics to start.
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/1-2.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/2-2.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/3-1.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/4-1.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/topofpistoninmotor.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/327bottomend.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/40overpiston.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/rodandpistonwithcap.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/cylinderwallscoring.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/bottomofhead.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/exhaustport.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/intakeport.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/printout.jpg
http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad226/faytmorgan/topofhead.jpg
327 small journal (less stress on bearings with the small journals)
.40 over
forged crank
195cc jegs straight plug aluminum heads (will get the air flow chart next week after knowlton thunderheads gets them on the bench)
http://knowltonsthunderheads.com/
This is a slow going build will update the more that is done.
vega~
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I've decided not to go with them I am getting xxr 527s john
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these adapters appear to be good enough for what they are. You can request a one piece where one stud from the hub is longer (i would use arp) and it goes through the adapter to bolt to the wheel and the adapter then bolts to the other studs then the adapter has 3 other studs (you can request them to be arp if you call) bolt down to the wheel as well as this has a centering ring for whatever style rim you use. You just have make sure to tell them the center hole style/size for the rim and they will make it for you.
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I have been beating myself up about the color for a while. I am doing gold for a lot of reasons. They look elegant and have an air to them, something at a higher point about them (being gold).
Black tends to wash out, looks great if the tires are wet, but tires are not always wet.
Black chrome looks good on a grey or silver.
Silver or chrome is boring.
reds, oranges,yellows, neon greens etc, are just too 1989 for me. Makes me think of zoobas.
bronze is usually too dark of a color and washes out with the black.
Gun metal is basically a grey color same issue as black and bronze but its almost like silver for me where its kind of boring.
I hate white rims, they belong on trailers... period.
<- this is all regarding rim color on a white car in my aesthetic opinion.
I think silver and chrome rims look good on blues, greens, blacks, dark dolphin greys etc.
reds and oranges look good on stuff like the new boss mustang with black on red paint (the car) with the red rim choice for made. looks good.
Black looks great on black duh also looks good on just about anything but on PEARL white car (my car is going to end up balloon white pearl (lambo color). sexy color only looks good with black rims when the tires are wet which unless its a trailer queen- not gunna be that way all the time.
http://www.iagmotors.com/CarPix/08LamboLP640White/ebay/08-Lambo-LP640-White-007.jpg
Paint code is PPG 224009 if anyone is ever interested...
I like the rims I chose for a number of reasons, for one I simply like them. For two I am limited on rims choices with gold as the color, which again, is my color of choice.
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GOTHALOSISM
That would be greatly appreciated! I am looking forward to seeing with what you come up with, I'm positive it will look rad.
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If i were to do it again, 400 block 283 crank.
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Could someone photoshop 16" xxr 527 rims in gold on a white 240Z? I would appreciate it.
xxr 527 in gold
White 240Z cars
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Bueler?
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Best video I could find of a smg being shifted with pedals (and my preference) the base stick.
The stick is slapped up and slapped down, for sequential shifts (1 gear at a time).
"Lift-off oversteer
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted · Edited by vega
Porsche 911s are terrible to drive hard, fun, but terrible cars. They have just perfected a turd really. Rear engine rear wheel drive is just a bad design in general. Compare that to say a NSX or MR2. An MR2 turbo in 1990 can out brake most performance vehicles that are 20 years newer. Its where the weight bias is. Mid-engine rear wheel drive makes the best handling cars. I would say next would be a front midship design like a z with a v8. Although I have been told that a s30 still (even with a v8) has a bit of rear bias, which I would attribute to the transmission location.
Either way this is not really the discussion here. I like the way my z handles as is right now on modern tires taller in the rear shorter in the front. I don't remember what they are in the front I would have to go look at them. When the butt end does start to slide it kicks out just enough oversteer to go around a corner BUT as soon as it does it gets to a point where it stops sliding and on its own accord hooks and goes. The z is a very very easy car to drive. I have yet to put my v8 in. I just spent 1800 dollars on heads so it might be awhile. I was thinking about running sticky 245/50r16s all around. The availability of rims for these cars sucks for race use. The bigger problem is the lack of tires in the size of rims available. I don't know if any of you have driven a cayman s, but I guess that would be a good way to describe how the z I have handles at its limit in its current form. Its gives a good amount of confidence to the driver to what its going to do. I can actually feel what the car is going to do before it does it. I know what its going to do when I step on the gas etc. I am just concerned that changing where the weight is with the v8, and changing tires (larger and stickier) to compensate for the extra 380hp to the wheels it will be making. Also I don't want to end up like peter brock with my car wrapped around a tree and die.
I am a bit concerned about my stub axles. I am running a r200 and want to stay with that even though its not "even" side to side per se. The thing is I am sure as hell not going to spend 1000k on a set of axles. I have yet to find a solution for it that is 500 or less. If you guys know of anything that would be awesome.
Lastly, I am also looking for subframe connectors, if I can purchase them pre-made that would be to my liking. Otherwise I can just bolt on some angle iron I suppose.
Does this make sense?