vega
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Posts posted by vega
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that makes sense
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completely agree with you leon
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I think one of the reasons it performs the way it does is because the double vanos and the itbs
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you are correct sir
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Just for future ref, BRAAP, your awesome.
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go drive an e46 m3 with a 3.2 dohc l6 in it- around a track. than tell me I don't know what i am talking about. To me the m3 or the cayman s- are the best two track cars for daily use I have ever driven. they are setup both engine wise and care wise. the 3.2 has a smaller stroke btw, i can't find much info on the cayman.
You are also misunderstanding my point. I said that it is a PART of what I was referring to. NOT the whole. This is hybridz - don't start a flame war please.
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I agree with you to a point. One thing you said is about how a square motor is that "it will generate essentially the same torque and HP at all points in the rev range".
In my opinion with driving lots of different vehicles (I work in ridgedale mn)ie porsche, bmw, benz, vw, aston martin, jaguar, two ferraris now etc. I have found that if focusing on JUST the engine the vehicles behave very differently based on how the engine is. Where it make power, how it makes power, when it makes power, how fast it makes power- or how slow. I personally prefer peaky motors that are rev happy and that get to that rpm very quickly but have enough tq down low to so it does not bog at launch. the bmw 328is is a great example of this. the v12 850cis is another, one of my personal favorites would also have to be the cayman s, or the g35. these cars have these characteristics for the most part. the cayman s is an amazing car- for the track. Mn roads are horrible so the suspension is WAAAY too stiff in my opinion for road use, and I enjoy stiff suspension as any other sports car nut but it is way too jarring for me and I am 25.
I guess I am not sure if I am making my point clear albeit this is my attempt at it.
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Well the point was not just for the bore/stroke but to have a bore stroke that either was square- or to have it so close with in one mm of the bore or stroke that it would not matter. You have an example that is 89.9mm x 73mm which is a much shorter stroke than would be needed to call it square. I went through all of the Benz engine info on bore and stroke- not one was square that I could find.
The purpose here is a BASIC starting point for an engine that can not only create tq but can hp at a decent rpm as well as a broader power band. Yes the cam and a compression and a lot of other things as well will come in to this- but this is a BASIC starting point for a good engine IMHO.
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I am having trouble finding the rod length on any of these for factory. For your information this did not just take me a half hour do find either.....
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I've been doing some research on engines for a while now and I have found that a square engine with a higher rod/stroke ratio would be the better motor for a track car, in general, and reliability.
Quick list I have been working. (bore/stroke) If there are others - I am unaware of them post um up.
BMW
M52B28 84.0 x 84.0
Ford
Duratec18 83.0 x 83.0
5.0 L Coyote 92.2 x 92.7
GM
20NE, 20SE, 20SEH, C20NE, C20GET (ECOTEC FAMILYII) 86.0 X 86.0
20XE, 20XEJ, C20XE, C20LET (ECOTEC FAMILYII) 86.0 X 86.0
LK9, LNF, LSJ, L34 (ECOTEC FAMILYII) 86.0 X 86.0
gmc 302 (l6 measured in inches vs mm) 4" x 4"
L81 3.0 86.0 x 86.0
LA3 3.2 87.5 x 88.0
Vortec 2200 (RPO codes L43 and LN2) 89.0 x 88.0
Honda
B17a1 81.0 x 81.4
K20A 86.0 x 86.0
Isuzu
4XE1 80.0 x 79.0
4ZD1 89.9 x 90
Jaguar
AJ26 86.0 x 86.0
AJ30/AJ35 86.0 x 85.0
AJ133 92.5 x 93.0
Mazda
FE 86.0 X 86.0
ZL 78.0 x 78.4
L8-DE, L8-VE 83.0 X 83.1
Mitsubishi
4B11 86.0 x 86.0
4G36 73.0 x 74.0
Suzuki
M15A 78.0 x 78.0
M18A 83.0 x 83.0
Toyota
2R 78.0 x78.0
3A 77.5 x 77.0
3S 86.0 x 86.0
1RZ 86.0 x 86.0
3RZ 95.0 x 95.0
1AZ 86.0 x 86.0
M 75.0 X 75.0
1G 75.0 X 75.0
2JZ 86.0 x 86.0
1GR 94.0 X 95.0
1GZ 81.0 X 80.8
VW
6.2 V12 48v 430-471kW (Lamborghini) 87.0 X 86.8
8.0 WR16 64v4T 736-816kW (Bugatti) 86.0 X 86.0
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You guys are going above my head with the cogs and gear ratio thing- can you guys offer a less vague explanation to what you are referring to exactly?
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In the 280z gear box (5spd) what is the common parts to fail under heavy use? Talking to a trans guy he argues we could just build the gear box I have as in fix the weaknesses and make it a stronger trans.
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Can you post your exact setup pat numbers etc and what exactly need to be done? The car is going to be beat the hell out of so yes it will need to be that strong. And I simply trust that transmission more than any other.
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UG, we need to find out that info and make it a sticky.
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I have been doing a bunch of research into a trans swaps to the l28. Looks like the very strong 6 speed t56 (readily available with lots of parts also) is very swapable to the l28 block. these are the links I have found thus far that come close to describing on how to do it. I am looking for this guy with the 510 and where the heck he got that bell-housing but I can't find him. Does anyone know? I WANT ONE!
510 with a t56 swapped to an l28 with spray and t61 turbo
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134
Just a guy talking about it.
http://www.zcar.com/car_talk_forum/taxessleep_t-56_conversions....._805150.0.html
The 510 is mentioned here this is where I found the 510 link just ctrl-f then l28
http://projectzerog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7759&highlight=&sid=a47d9c9a0f3a5efc0ceffa1e2e8b80de
Any help finding where to get that bell-housing would be great guys!
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z32 trans does not seem like something i would want to invest in if i can use a modified borg warner t5 id prefer that, or a t56.
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I had a 240sx at one point and all the guys I know that had anything more than like 300 hp and actually put it to the ground (not the drift dirt bags) where blowing transmissions. Not because they did not know how to drive either. And most of the guys started to not even power shift to save the syncros.
Now the rb20 swap- what is involved in that? for sure what has been put down for power reliably on that transmission? I am considering also to try and put together a custom borg warner t5 wc/datsun gear box.
As for the 6 speed that would be ideal though the only one I know available that can hold to a decent amount of power is the t56. The 6 spd in the 350z I have been told has syncro issues by friends who were looking for newer z cars, they always found 6 spds with bad syncros, they told me it was apparently a common problem in 350z cars. Also as for the z32 trans I don't find a point in spending that much money on a trans I don't trust. The w28 is bullet proof is why I thought this to be interesting.
There are guys running around my town with 800-1400 hp supras with a w58 or a r154 which is not too much different as it is.
For the setup I am working on over this winter I am going to need a stronger gear box based on a bunch of searching here on hybridz.
Custom fuel rail (non hose type dsm injectors), gm 7730 ecu to datsun harness swap using the gm icm for the transistor ignition unit to the stock magnetic pickup distributor with msd, high pressure fuel pump, chrome for tuning with a moates ostrich real time chip emulator, 6 to 1 equal length header from msd, a m90 blower off of ford thunderbird super coupe (it goes into the throttle body vs on top of the intake no mods to the intake are needed, aem o2 sensor, many more mods to list I am just gathering info and parts now. I will be doing a write up on it it when its all done with pics, and all the info I can remember.
The only week points I am finding in this are the axle stubs, that damn diff mount (mine is already clunking arg) and the transmission. The other two problems are easy and cheap fixes. So I just have to figure out what is going to be the strongest transmission with a final drive at no higher than .71 in the gear box (not the diff- I am keeping the 3.545 ratio in my r200 though I would like to have a posi diff
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what do you guys think?
looks like one can get just the conversion kit without the trans- we can get these w58s pretty cheap also.
btw they mention to a 240z and 260z, do you think this would work with a l28?
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As we all know the turbo 280zx had a 5 speed borg warner transmission in it. As years went by ford in particular did a lot of upgrades to the transmission. What I would like to know is of the following;
1. Can one use the zx bell housing (or the 280z bell housing) to swap over to the newer non jap t5?
2. If the bell housings do not swap over do the newer wc (world class) parts - which are stronger, able to work with the older case to make an even stronger bwt5 for the l28 series?
(I have a free wc t5 sitting in my garage that I got from a friend who wanted an auto trans)
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i will be using a 7730 it the 7747 the mclairen ecu?
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thanx much- what does it mean by hose type btw? mine is on an actual fuel rail JUST like the galant.
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Well I have done a LOT of research recently into some things about whats going on with fuel options for my 280z. So it turns out that the distributor I have on my 78' has a magnetic pickup. It also has six teeth in it as well to send an analog signal out to the "transistor ignition unit" which I guess is just a fancy name for a ICM when transistors were coming out for cars with efi. So basically I am going to get rid of the stock TIU. Use the signal that it was getting from the distributor from the pickup coil in the distributor, there are 2 inputs on the icm for the pickup coil/sensor. The gm ICM then translates the analog signal to a digital signal to send to the gm ecu (a 7730 model) which I am going to wiring up based on pin to pin basis. I may need to add or subtract some senors. In particular I need a intake air temperature sensor an o2 sensor etc.
I just ordered up a wiring diagram that is in full color for my 78 datsun that is laminated and 11x17 it will be here in 6 days. I just need the ecu and ICM so I can wire it up.
Now what I am looking to know is what the stock injector size is on the 78 datsun 280 2 seater 5 speed 8.3 compression- mine are green if memory serves. I grabbed 4 pin (hole) bosch injectors off of a galant motor from work that the timing belt went on. Its a 99 galant v6 3.0 lt sohc. The 4 pin style vs 1 pin are better for atomization of the fuel so I would like to use them plus they work and are free- and free is good.
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they are up in mn goldfish speaking of which are you and I the only two in mn on this board sheesh I go to the anoka car show no one ever has another dat there.
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You may break halfshafts but I think it's proven that the R200 is strong enough for most people.
http://forums.hybrid...__1#entry686923
that is a great link- i hope all the people there are telling the truth if that is true then that is great- what are these 10 second z's doing for maintenance and what kind of oil in their diffs?
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wheel adaptors NOT spacers, yes I've done research...
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
First things first for some reason I can't post in the suspension tech area? Its been a while since I have been on here so, not sure what is up.
OK, we all know the limited rims and offsets that are available for the s30 chassis. So I have done a bit of research on the topic for a couple months (I also work for bridgestone/firestone so I have experience in this) it turns out that the awd 997 Porsche came factory with wheel adapters on the rear to 1 space them, and 2 for availability. Porsche thus far as been doing this for years, (bolt down to the hub with longer, basically, arp studs for the lug studs) and has had no problem thus far that has been reported aside from misuse which can be said about anything.
That being said, from what I have experienced with the Porsche vehicles that I have worked on, they are designed very well, and I would go as far as saying that I actually trust their "engineers". Which as a full time mechanic, generally I am not a friend of automotive engineers... Anyhow I don't see a problem with using wheel adapters that bolt down to the hubs. Now spacers are a no, no. Albeit a wheel adapter CAN be used to space the wheels, which it basically does anyway.
Now my question and my point is this. How thick do I want these adapters? I can get longer arp wheel studs so that is not an issue. I want to run 17x8.5 wheels to 17x9. (yes i know fender clearance) I just want the wheels to accommodate larger tires such as say at least a 255 on the rear and 235 or 245 on the front.
Any help/info/ideas would be much appreciated in advance.
vega-
(btw 1978 280z)