NewZed
-
Posts
6626 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
60
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by NewZed
-
-
1 hour ago, tokuzumi said:
Replaced the fuel pressure regulator with an Aeromotive one,
inline fuel pressure gauge (in-line barb style with a threaded bung which has the gauge screwed into it) still shows 0 after shutting off the car. I
That is common. They are not designed to hold pressure. Search the internet for "aeromotive FPR not holding pressure" and you'll find a ton. I had one for a while.
Example -
"I called Aeromotive about this and they confirmed that their regulators will not hold pressure when the pump is not running. (Dumb."
-
If you have some stiff small diameter cable you can put it in a drill and use it to bore holes and clear passages. Like snaking a sewer pipe. It will pass through some bends. It does look like a bendy path to the opening inside the tank, here are some good pictures. At least you know what you're dealing with now.
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm
-
I reported your post so that whoever is doing the admin'ing can take a look. Hopefully they don't just delete it. If they do, my apologies.
p.s. I'm not a real moderator. One of them just gave me that name.
-
Are you sure that you have the return hose connected to the proper line? There are vent lines over there too. It's not the pressure that would cause problems but the volume. The 280Z has lines designed for 30 GPH. The typical aftermarket pump will hit 90 psi. Like the Airtex E8312. I had that on my 76, with no problems. People run the Walbro 255 with no problems except noise. That's 67 GPH.
It's unlikely that you'd have a restriction due to the design of the return line. More likely something got stuck in the hose if the connections are right. I'd doublecheck connections all the way back to the tank and in to the tank. Looks like you're on the right path.
-
On 9/6/2021 at 8:28 PM, Mike33Stig said:
I have calibrated one using the guide on Atlanticz.ca and everything went well. On reinstall, the car would not start.
When you say would not start do you mean that it would not stay running or that it would not start at all? If it just won't stay running, you might still consider the fuel tweak, or increasing pressure with your FPR. The AFM needs to have the correct rate of movement of the vane with air flow and that's what the atlanticz procedure is supposed to do. If the vane spring is too loose it will open too quick and run rich as soon as RPM increase, if it's too tight it will open too slowly and run lean. Get the rate right and use fuel pressure or the sensor mod to change the overall fuel mixture.
If you think that it's running rich make sure that your FPR is not leaking through the diaphragm. They can do that and still show correct pressure. Not clear what type of FPR you're using. Make sure it has the vacuum hose attached also. It's important for the 280Z EFI system.
Good luck.
-
Have you adjusted valve lash and checked cam timing (notch and groove)? Is the distributor in good shape, including the mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms? Is ignition timing set correctly?
The other way to increase fuel is through the coolant temperature sensor, another Atlanticz tool, linked below. Or just raise the fuel pressure. And if you're using old injectors it might be that one or two are not flowing at full rate. That will give you lean cylinders. You can't fix that without installing a set of balanced injectors.
https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html
-
12 years behind a lot of torque, with yearly abuse, is a pretty good run. Bearings do wear. Maybe it just needs a refresh. Carrier bearings are pretty easy.
An easy way to see if they're worn is if the carrier falls right out when you take the caps off. It's funny how much attention is paid to getting perfect preload but after thousands of miles the preload disappears as the bearings wear. And as the bearings wear it should allow the ring gear to move away from the pinion gear which might cause noise.
Just a guess. I haven't worked on an R200 but I have been deep in to a Ford diff. They're all similar.
-
14 hours ago, Jaconense777 said:
I have arp studs and I don’t really know which ones I have.
I'd read the ARP instructions to start. They have specific instructions for using their products. Find the product that would be spec'ed for your application.
https://arp-bolts.com/p/instructions.php
https://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php
-
The disc with the slots is the crank angle indicator and the sensor is the LED switch it passes through.
p.s. I'm not a real moderator.
https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/ignition/rebuilt-280zx-turbo-distributor-lifetime-warranty
-
Not sure why you mentioned the CAS. It's inside the turbo distributor. So that plug should connect to the turbo distributor.
-
You must have bought some sort of "plug 'n' hope" kit. Looks like you've already moved beyond using the factory ECU? It's not plug n play, you have a lot more work ahead of you.
I circled your coil. One of those wires will go to the terminal with a + plus on it the other to the one with a - on it. Peel that rubber cover off and you'll see them.
Good luck.
-
4 hours ago, Jim Politis said:
I was told that I can not use the prewired lines because I'm installing a internally regulated alternator?
Who told you this nonsense?
The wiring diagram shows a 20 amp circuit.
-
15 hours ago, jeffer949 said:
the maf.
Nissan calls it an air flow meter. AFM. Might be that it's running a bit lean. You can try the coolant temperature sensor adjustment, it works well to cure popping back and bucking on the 280Z's. Linked it below. Don't adjust the AFM.
You haven't mentioned fuel pressure or vacuum leaks. Always good to look there. Even an open PCV system will cause a big vacuum leak. People put those little filters on the valve cover without understanding the PCV system. All air must pass through the AFM.
https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html
-
2 hours ago, jeffer949 said:
I've got it running at idle ok but does not drive.
What does it do? "does not drive" does not tell much.
I've used high impedance injectors with a 1976 280Z ECU. The problem is probably not the injectors. Did he adjust some other things while he was trying to get it running?
-
Your content is still out there. I don't know who's doing admin stuff now. Somebody must be doing it because they got rid of the spam that was here this morning.
https://forums.hybridz.org/profile/28202-grannyknot/content/
-
Might be 58, hard to tell.
http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension
-
Seems to match the 1983 FSM. Did you install the blind plug?
-
If the LS3 cooling is like many cars, bypassing the heater core actually reduces cooling system effectiveness. The engineers design the systems with the heater core using just a small amount of total flow. When you bypass it you create an imbalance that wasn't designed in to the system. On the L6 a heater core bypass actually bypasses the radiator also because the return line enters the water pump inlet directly, reducing the overall flow through the radiator.
Might be worthwhile to examine the flow path of the coolant and consider flow volumes.
-
19 minutes ago, milesz said:
I forgot to mention that I don't feel the car shacking just the steering wheel.
20 hours ago, milesz said:the car shakes at speed over 45mph
You said car in the first post. Check your steering rack bushings. Maybe something is not assembled correctly. You replaced a lot of parts.
-
12 hours ago, milesz said:
I can't seem to get the front wheel spacers to fix flush. Anyone else having this steering wheel problem?
Like calZ said it's probably your "spacers". You don't have a steering wheel problem, you have a wheel problem. Very dangerous, especially on the front.
Maybe you have some of these but haven't machined the I.D. Don't even know why this guy sells them that way, kind of cheap and unsafe.
-
Sounds like a u-joint. There are two on the each side and two up the middle. Look for dry damaged seals, and rust powder. Pry them around with a long lever, look for movement.
Could also be the sliding portion of the half-shaft itself.
-
No offense - that's obvious. But people put turbo engines in 280Z's often.
Anyway, both engines and the car look pretty beat up. The bottom engine looks like a 76 or 77 280Z NA engine. You can tell from the fuel rail and fusible links. Can't tell from your pictures which engine is from the 280Z 2+2.
What are you trying to do?
-
-
It's described in the Factory Service Manual (actually it looks like they left it out for 1974. First year of electronic ignition. Try the 1976 FSM). I think that its function is to maintain a consistent gap at the pickup coil.
Fuel pressure drops to 0 when I shut off the car
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted
The factory FPR is not supposed to. But they can fail after many years. It's not uncommon but it's not correct either. You can find pressure in fuel rails on 280Z's and ZX's in the wrecking yard.