NewZed
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Posts posted by NewZed
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I've pulled a motor and trans together. It should be fairly easy with a load leveler and some patience. I had lots of patience but no load leveler, but it was still doable. It's harder to install together because the tail section is so heavy, tilted to get it back in, that it's hard to get it lifted to bolt the rear mount up.
One other option, if you can't get the car high enough would be to remove the drive shaft and transmission, but leave them under the car. That way you won't have to lift the car high enough to get the transmission out. Actually, you could pull the trans out through the engine bay after the engine is removed. Lift car high enough to drop transmission, leave it underneath, remove the engine, slide transmission forward and pull through engine bay. Reverse procedure for installation.
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For future reference if anyone comes across this thread - nylon zip ties work great for keeping the rear extension from popping off the adapter plate before the bellhousing, when trying to remove the housing for swapping or modifying. The bellhousing has two bearings holding it in place and the extension will break loose and try to fall off before the bellhousing. Once you get a small gap you can slip a zip tie or three threw some bolt holes and cinch the extension back tight to the adapter plate. I opened the extension/adapter plate gap back up afterward to clean up the sealing surface after I got the bellhousing off.
I didn't see any need to pull the extension and wanted to avoid the usual problems that come up with the "while I'm at it" so just worked on the bellhousing.
Also, take note that there is a snap ring on the outside of the main bearing and a circlip holding the inside. Only the snap ring needs to come off. If you remove only the circlip, the main bearing will come off the main shaft and stay in the bellhousing and the bellhousing will probably be more difficult to remove.
Here's an interesting thread I found over on a Nissan diesel forum about the 71C transmission. Lots of good pictures and information - http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?t=58
And here's another on the 71C swap in to a 240Z, very well written, comparable to Nigel's write-up - http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/transmission.htm
Still interested in anyone's experience with the swap, for the record.
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Why don't you ask him for references, both in Anoka and back in CA? He should have at least a few satisfied customers, in both places.
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This might help - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/75_280z_wiring.pdf
The fusible links are shown in the left third at the top.
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If you can find the room to work and the right cold chisel to fit in there, you can use your technique between the carrier and the CV housing. Some oil on the parts in contact and some hard tapping and it will lever out. It works on the stub axles too. Same concept, different location.
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You'll be putting some off-center loads on an aluminum piece designed for relatively light perpendicular loads. Could be risky. It might work, but if it doesn't there will be some noise and carnage. Take a video.
There is a whole thread on here somewhere about bolting a chain to the top of the engine using the head bolt holes, to pull an engine. The hardest part is finding a short bolt with the right threads so that you can clamp it tight to the deck. Put a smooth flat washer or other protection under the chain to avoid damaging the deck surface. Others have run a strap completely under the engine and lifted that way, it seems popular. If the transmission is out, one of those holes would be convenient.
I've clamped a chain loop to the exhaust manifold stud in the back. But the stud was in good shape and I angled the pieces for load distribution. It looked uncomfortable, but it was essentially the same load as the original engine hanging piece. If you have a piece of flat steel you could drill a couple of holes and make a new hanger.
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Just curious, since I haven't rebuilt any engines, but why don't you just clean up the rings and ring lands you have and re-use them. I understand the "while I'm at it" or "it would be foolish to have it apart and not" principles but if you didn't break any and the other four cylinders were good, why not? The compression and leak-down numbers looked good.
Or just replace the oil rings.
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Well, those are new details. If that's the case, then you should focus on getting the injectors to open correctly and squirting fuel.
The point is that you aren't sure what you're trying to fix. You have spark and fairly correct timing (because it runs off CSV gas), and some fuel pressure (because the CSV is getting enough gas to run the engine for a short while).
You should measure the pressure before you replace anything, test the injector connectors for voltage and signal from the ECU (with a test light or other method) before replacing the injectors, test that the ECU is getting the proper signal from the coil before replacing the ECU, and test the AFM before replacing it (swapping AFMs to get it to idle won't be very effective, if your fuel pump is hot-wired to be on all the time). You might be replacing good parts with bad ones. You won't know unless you do some investigating and take some measurements.
It will save you time and money and lead to better results in the long run. Good luck.
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1977 still has the contacts in the AFM according the FSM (Factory Service Manual - http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html). If the contacts in the AFM are dirty, the fuel pump will only run when the key is at Start. Your symptoms sound like dirty AFM fuel pump contacts, or an intake system leak that bypasses the AFM vane. Post #4 was actually a good idea. If that didn't work, then checking that the injectors had power and were actually firing would be next.
Probably too late though since you've moved on to the replace and hope method. You might get lucky with an AFM, if it's the right model.
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Pretty sure I've read of people swapping the CV cages from shaft to shaft. You might be able to take your VLSD stub axle and cage end and put it on a shaft that has the right outer cage and bolt pattern. Two usable CV shafts from four. But I think that the spline count on the shaft still might be a problem, or the type of CV joint, and it would probably still be too long and bind somewhere near the bottom of the suspension travel. Something to explore though.
Another option that I don't see much is to just cut up four shafts in the middle, to the desired lengths, than re-weld them with the proper CV ends where you want them. It's failry crude and might be expensive but seems like it would work. A collar or sleeve press fit to both cut ends and welded around the new seam should give more strength than the shaft itself. I'm sure that I saw someone on this forum sleeve the length of a complete shaft to make it stronger for drag racing. Just shrink the concept down to bond two shaft ends together.
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4) Disconnect blue wire from harness going to negative side of coil, taped up blue wire, no longer required...right?
12) Transitor Ignition Unit is still plugged up.
Crank, crank, crank. Getting really good spark, but no fuel is getting into cylinders.
Double and triple checked TDC, it is correct.
Fault isolated all circuits per Factory service manual..all continuity and voltage checks perfect!
What is next? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Coincidence that yours is the first post I see. Not a stalker...
2. Leave the blue wire connected. It sends the "break" signal to the ECU to fire the injectors and to the tachometer. There's also a resistor in line to the ECU, that the ECU needs to use the signal correctly. That's probably why you're not getting fuel, the ECU isn't "seeing" (feeling?) the coil activity.
4. Unplug the transistor ignition unit. I don't know if it hurts to have it connected, but I do know that the car will run without it connected, if you have an ignition module at the coil, which you do. You're getting spark so it must be working. Watch out for loose wires on the disconnected end, some of them will be hot when the key is on.
I didn't really look at your other connections. I think that your main problem now though is the disconnected blue wire.
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Thanks for the feedback! I've seen your comments on the atlanticz site pallnet (one of the first as far as I can tell), and been through your writeup many times Nigel. I almost have the procedure memorized.
I went over to 240SXforums.com and downloaded some FSMs and they show the dual cone 2nd gear all the way back to 1989. The first dual cone appears to show up in 1988 in the 300ZX, which opens up the range for improved synchros. Haven't found any information on the wider gears yet.
As for the shorter gears, the C transmssion has about the same first gear ratio as the early 77-79 boxes. So my 3.54 gears should work well, I would guess. I'v attached a little Excel plot I put together just to visualize the ratio differences.
Still interested in comments or information, from anyone interested.
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It's not threaded (oops). It is a tapered pin with threads on the end only, to hold it in place. Like the pins on older bicycle cranks. You'll have to cut the nut off and just tap it straight out the other side. If you're good, maybe you can save enough threads to keep it. It's purpose, I assume, is to keep the spindle pin from rotating or sliding back and forth.
The trick, on the one left, is to back the nut off but leave it on the last few threads, then tap on the nut to break the pin free.
Edit - pallnet beat me.
Re post #2, the torch will still come in handy when you're trying to get the spindle pin out. Old mag wheel lug nuts also, they have the same thread as the pin and will take a beating.
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I know that many people have done the Z/ZX transmission bell-housing swap on to the C type transmission to allow its use on the L6. How do they compare after a few miles of driving? Are the gear ratios better? It looks like the 1st to 2nd jump is pretty big, bigger than any of the other 5 speeds available. After you get to 2nd it looks about like a ZX 5 speed. How about shifting performance in general, with the dual cone 2nd gear synchro and newer gear box design in general.
I have an extra bell-housing and a line on a 300Zx transmission, and the overall cost and effort looks less than a 5 speed rebuild. I'm on the fence but have time to think about it.
Any driving impressions appreciated. Thanks.
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http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html
Cam specs are in Engine Mechanical. Lots more good information also.
Early Zs - http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html
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The cam specs are in the FSMs, up to 1983, but not including. The 1981 specs match the F specs on the atlanticz page. The atlanticz F should probably be a K. Or K and F are the same.
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Check the PCV line under the intake, pinch it closed and see what happens. Check the brake booster line and check valve. The EGR system lets exhaust gas in to the intake, maybe it's leaking fresh air in at idle.
Engine speed is controlled by air allowed in. If you can't choke the engine speed down to nothing, you have uncontrolled air getting in. Intake leaks are hard to find sometimes.
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Apparently, if the L28ET engine had an automatic, there's a spacer on the end of the crankshaft that you need to remove if you're going to use a flywheel. The 240Z flywheel should then bolt right on. The critical parts to keep together are the pressure plate (height) and the throwout collar (height), because they both come in a variety of heights. Keep those two together, or measure the total height of the two combined (from your working 240Z) and match it if you get new parts. People seem to run in to problems when they get a thick pressure plate and a thick collar or a thin plate and a thin collar. The slave cylinder has to be at the right starting point and can only move a certain distance.
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Looks like a 280ZX of some kind, possibly stock, maybe not? Probably early since you have an idle screw on the throttle body.
Have you checked the BCDD? They get stuck sometimes. On the bottom of the throttle body. I have found a leak there before by spraying carb cleaner around where it mounts to the intake. The idle speed will change.
The idle speed is mainly controlled by how much air is allowed in to the intake manifold. If the air gets past the throttle body but still moves the AFM flapper, you'll get a high idle, more air plus more fuel. That's what the idle adjustment does. A small vacuum leak can raise your idle too, a big one leans everything out and the engine dies. If you get everything sealed up right, you should be able to kill the engine by closing the idle speed screw.
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There ain't no K on that list. Maybe it's an F.
mpresley, post a picture just for fun.
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Are you asking for a free one or just looking to pay less for a used one? Might help your quest to clarify.
Edit - also just realized that the early 240Zs used a different cylinder than the 72 and later 240-280Zs. More clarity. Maybe someone will loan you one if you give them your old drum gear when you go to discs.
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Did you add any baffles at all or a surge tank? Where did the pump end up in the tank, it looks like it's in different spots in your pictures?
Isn't running lean on a turbo motor a big no-no? You could be risking engine damage accelerating out of a high G turn, with your RB25DET. The stock tanks and plumbing uncover the inlet at ~1/3 tank on a hard left, and they have at least a simple baffle inside.
Should be interesting.
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The blue wire is for the capacitor (aka condenser, the silver tube in the picture) which absorbs electrical noise. The engine will run without it but it's a good idea to have it connected to protect the electronics.
The charge light should light up when the key is on but engine not running, and go off when the engine starts.
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A dry cam wouldn't have any effect on slowing the engine down due to drag on the cam. The engine would just destroy the surface of the dry metal parts if it had run with no oil.
Oil the cam up, put your fingers on it and feel the lobes for rough spots. Every lobe should feel nice and smooth.
The yellow/brown material is just a buildup on the cam base that doesn't have any pressure on it in use, due to valve lash. If lash is set correctly, the base circle doesn't actually rub on anything. You can see that the lobes themselves are actually shiny from pushing on the rocker arms. That's the part that needs to be smooth and slick.
Runs bad after 30 min
in Troubleshooting
Posted
Freeeee!!!!
http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html
You can't go wrong by reading the Engine Fuel section.
I've seen a fuel pump look great (watching a fuel pressure gauge) for about 20 minutes, then slowly lose pressure. Might be worth borrowing a pressure gauge and strapping it in the engine bay while you go for a drive. Stop and take a look when the problem happens or attach it where you can see it while driving.