NewZed
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Posts posted by NewZed
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I didn't see any sure signs of over-heating in your description. Signs of improperly installed core plugs maybe. You have a 13 psi radiator cap, did it let go? Or did the core plugs just pop out when the engine started to get warm? Looks like you have a 13 psi cap and 5 psi core plugs.
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Exactly the same spot? If the timing mark was at zero, it would turn over once and the timing mark would again be at zero? How do you get it past that "same spot"? You don't back it up and start over, do you? How does it "crank over" if you're turning it by hand?
You probably have a good description in your head, it's just not making it in to your thread.
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If the car ran from the module inside the cabin, then it's not an E12-80 style distributor (unless someone modified some wiring). You can make the E12-80 work by connecting the two prongs on the outside to power and coil negative and the two internal contacts to the red and green wire. It might be easier to use a GM HEI module, which has the same four connections, and performs the same functions, but is easier to mount and use, external to the distributor.
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Page EE-12, 1973 FSM. I think you just gave the critical clue to your problem. The light is there, it's just not connected. Go to the light - and make it shine.
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I got curious so went out and rechecked mine. I just put the positive probe in the back of the T plug, still plugged in to the alternator, and grounded the negative. But the rubber on my T plug is rotted away. Yours might be covered. I got 1.7 volts, key On, engine not running.
It's not the usual Z car measurement though, I just found the information while working on my own car. You might first just check with the T plug disconnected, with the key On. You should see battery voltage on each terminal individually, positive in the terminal, negative to the case.
Back to the the charge light - the charge light can't glow unless current is flowing through the L wire, to and through the alternator. If your charge light doesn't glow when the key is on,the L wire is probably not connected.
Also, I found that some alternator winding cores have enough residual magnetism to self-energize. That might be why your old alt charged and the new one doesn't.
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Found the link I was thinking of. It was for the CS130D GM alternator but I took the measurements on my 76 with a ZX alternator and L voltage was in the range described. The CS130D might be more sensitive than the ZX alternator though.
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/ONLINETECH/CS130DREG.html
Good luck. Take some measurements.
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Your first one might have been self-energizing from stray or leaking voltage. I think that the voltage on L should actually be around 2-3 volts, not 12. More will damage the internal regulator. It might be described in the FSM for 78 and on. I'll post it if I find it.
I always take electrical measurements after I do wiring mods, so that I know they work correctly. Take a measurement right at the T plug.
Edit 2 - Does your charge light go on when the key is On, but before the engine starts? Does it stay on when the alt's not charging?
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Pretty sure, if I remember right, that the "L" wire needs power to magnetize the windings in the alternator so it can start producing electricity right away. Yours is probably not connected to power. It's one of the two wires in the T plug at the back of the alt. It would run through the red charge lamp in a 280Z, not sure where it goes in a 240.
Search for information on the L or Lamp wire. It might need a resistor or a lamp to avoid damaging the internal regulator. I think it needs a diode also to get the engine to shut off when you turn the key off.
Edit - maybe you've already done this, but if you search "240z alternator upgrade" on this forum you'll find links to some good write-ups. Either way, it sounds like you should check L for 12 volts, with the key at On and go from there.
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You asked about the best manifold at the end of your post also, not just in the title. Don't dig your self a deeper hole, your post could be locked and in the Tool Shed already. The "quote" is directly from the Rules post, which all new people are supposed to read (but many don't) - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=forums&module=extras§ion=boardrules
Post #3 in the following thread is along the lines of what you're asking - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/
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I think the SWEPCO is worth a shot. You might try it full strength and 50/50. I've converted people with the steel synchro'd comp transmissions to SWEPCO from Redline, but haven't done a brass synchro back to back, so I'd be really interested to see what you think of the two as compared to each other.
What brand of ATF did you use? Might as well finish the experiment and try to get a little more, the SWEPCO 201 alone was a benefit.
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Type the words "buying a 280z what should I look for" in to Google and you won't be disappointed. Not kidding.
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Here's another one from classiczcars - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?156-S30-Door-Window-Problems-and-Troubleshooting-Procedures
Also, if you can't get your fingers up in there to insert some washers, you can make a shim out of some stiff wire instead. Bend it in to a hook shape, loosen the screw, fish the wire in behind the guide and tighten it back up. It worked for me.
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Confirmed that the Swepco is the 80W-90W 201. It's definitely better, in this old, worn wrecking yard transmission, than the Red Line MT-90 I had in there. Took away the 1-2 notchy, partial grind and moved the 2-3 grind up about 800 RPM. It also feels less metal-on-metal and more cushioned when it happens, plus fewer teeth per grind. Still needs a rebuild but I won't be grinding unless I use the extreme upper end of the tachometer now.
Not the miracle work that I saw with a 78 5 speed going from Valvoline 75W-90W to MT-90, but still worth doing to buy some life for the synchros. Results in a tight tolerance, newly rebuilt transmission might be totally different. If I try the 50/50 blend, it will be later, I'll ride with this for a while.
Thanks for the conversion. Choosing gear oil for synchros is like voodoo.
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Thanks Jon. If it hasn't been tried, I might as well give it a shot, for the record, in comparison to MT-90.
I found a local Porsche racer who just got back from Sears point and was nice enough to hang out at his shop until I could beat the traffic and get over there. He poured me two quarts from his 55 gallon drum, but labeled it Swepco 210 80W-90W (not 201). According to the internet, apparently the 210 grade is popular with some of the sports car crowd also, so I have an unknown. He had just driven 14 hours today after the weekend races so must have a been a little bit punchy. It's a dark bluish green color. It didn't pour like an 80W-140W so I'm guessing it's 201 since he labeled it 80W-90W.
Either way, it's in and I'm just waiting for the Halloween candy scavengers to get off the streets so I can give it a test drive.
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Thanks, but I have lots of time and spare parts but low cash flow. The car is not for sense anyway, it's for sanity.
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I just installed a used 1980 5 speed in my 76 and find that the 1-2 and 2-3 synchros are worn. At high RPM I get a quick one to two notch grind, and a full-on grind if I try to shift fast. "Normal" low RPM shifting is fine. I had a 78 5 speed that had a similar problem, using 75-90W Valvoline gear oil, and the problem was fixed by switching to Red Line MT-90. But I started with MT-90 here and am out of easy options.
Any thoughts on ways to buy some time or get a few hundred more RPM over the MT-90 oil? I've seen that the Swepco 201/ATF blend is popular but don't know if it will help or hurt a bad synchro problem, compared to Red Line MT-90.
In the long run, I'll probably swap synchros from another trans (maybe, I haven't had a transmission apart yet) but I just put this one in and haven't built up the urge to take the car apart again yet. It's the quietest, smoothest tranny I've had in the car, except for when I turn things up.
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Did it die while idling or driving? Automatic or manual? Are you sure it wasn't already dead when the brake light came on? Why did you put the new parts on, was there a problem before? The more clues, the better.
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Vacuum. It's controlled by intake manifold vacuum. The specs for the vacuum canister and the mechanical advance mechanism are in the Engine Electrical section of the FSMs. You can use a dial-back timing light or set your timing to zero and measure each, vacuum and centrifugal, independently to be sure. Disconnect the vacuum and measure centrifugal advance, then connect the vacuum to direct intake vacuum to measure vacuum advance.
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I have a 76 with a GM HEI module. The stock ignition module is completely disconnected and everything works fine - tachometer, ECU, etc. It won't be needed if you're using a different ignition system. It's apparent from the wiring diagrams also, if you want to be positive.
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Stuck advance mechanism maybe, giving high initial advance? 16 + 15 from the typical vacuum = 31.
I've wondered what would happen if one of those ball bearings that typically breaks free in a crusty distributor caused the breaker plate to get stuck fully advanced. Just a guess.
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20% off transmissions at PicknPull this week - http://www.picknpull.com/events_and_specials.aspx
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Hello Paul. Are you still doing business in head work for Z cars? I have referred someone your way on this forum, who then said that they couldn't reach you, and sent you a PM about my own project, but no reply. If you're busy with other work, please say so. If you have recommendations for other places to go, that would be great also.
Thanks.
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I found this link a while ago that explained a scenario like yours. Might be worth reading - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/moreinfo.htm
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The Aeromotive FPRs seem to regulate fine and give high flow but they will leak pressure down rapidly (within seconds) after the fuel pump turns off. Not a huge deal if you have a switch to run your pump before starting the engine, but it can be a pain waiting for the pressure to build while you hold the starter on if you don't.
I have an Aeromotive and if I was going to buy another FPR for my daily driver, I would choose another brand that holds static pressure for at least a few hours.
2.8 rebuild problems
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted · Edited by NewZed
What did the temperature gauge show before the plugs popped and how long did the engine run after? One will give an indication of if there was overheating and the other will give some detail on probability of damage.