zxgtr

Great replys! I sold the a1000 on ebay and have already received the Walbro 255. Now to find a location to mount this sucker, should be easy.

Good deal. Seems there was only 1 on ebay and the person only posts them once a month so I picked up a: Walbro 255 Inline fuel pump GSL 392 With -6 fittings Should work just fine! Now to ditch the A1000! I think for the `future upgrades` I'll put on another Walbro 255.

Thanks all. ** revised ** I called Aeromotive to make sure that the A1000 will work for my setup and ATM it wont, I purchased the pump for future upgrades (and to hopefully work for current) but with the palnet fuel rail being 6AN the pump wont work for the current setup. Are there any pumps like the 044 Bosch with AN fittings? It sure seems to be popular.

I got the level idea from: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120663 Thanks for the tips!

Web definitions for Swarf Swarf is the debris or waste resulting from metalworking operations. It consists of shavings and chippings of metal. It can usually be recycled and this is the preferred method of disposal due to the environmental concerns regarding potentional contamination with cutting fluid or tramp oil. The ideal way to remove these liquids is by the use of a centrifuge which will separate out any liquids allowing them to be collected for further treatment. there ya go

Hello all.. I've done some searching about how/where to mount the A1000 fuel pump but felt I need to ask before I mount mine. I read that the pump's inline needs to be level with the outlet of the gas tank, or a little lower. I have a RCI fuel cell that has a 2" sump in it. I cant really mount the A1000's inlet level with the outlet on the sump, it can go about 1-1.5" above the outlets but inline would make the pump almost the lowest thing back there. Can some A1000 owners post pictures of how their pump is mounted? Is it going to be ok if the pump is mounted a little above the outlets on the sump? Thanks all! Got my RCI tank mounted real nice, just need the pump on there and I can plan how to run the lines!

Threads a little old but I havent seen anything else related on my search so.. I have the RCI tank that is exactly the same as Joel's tank, the mounting tabs are on the bottom.. How did you mount that up Joel? Anyone else have pics using the bottom tabs? I was planning to cut them off and weld long tabs to the top and bolt to the frame rail but if I can keep them and use steel to build a frame to hold it, itd be much cheaper.

I could be wrong but hey, no replys -- its worth a shot. I belive both the R180 and R200 from the 280zx's were both long nose and should both fit without any changes. I could be wrong, im ore interested in changing the R200 with a 87 z31 lsd R200, and I belive their the same size as well. Hope this helps, and that im right. Just read this: "Cars with automatic transmissions had the R-180 diffs, All manuals and turbos had R-200s."

Thanks guys, I based alot of my stuff in the past on what JeffP has commented on and most others here, I was always under the impression the T5 could take the 350HP and had it in the plans to switch the auto out. Are those auto mods for the 4n71b only or do those work on the 280zxt auto tranny? After a good night of sleep I decided to bail on doing the RB upgrade at this time, I figure I will continue the build in its current state as i have nearly every part to put the car back together. spork I think I will be scrapping the auto, it was never a dream of mine to drive an automatic 280zxt, my daily drivers an automatic, 1 car is plenty PM me spork and we'll work something out, I just put the engine back in to try and yank the tranny next time so its almost ready to come out. Thanks guys! So it looks like Im back to wanting a T5 and R200 LSD. I was looking at a World Class T5 for a mustang but stopped as I read the bellhousing isnt the same, are there any T5's you guys would recommend looking for other then a zx? What clutch or other changes for the 300-350hp range?

Thanks Thumper! Im stuck trying to decide if I want to scrap the zxt engine/tranny and buy a used RB25DET with transmission, to me (at this time) the cost will be the same as my engine (and $900 in new parts) would be sold, basically the cost of the RB and then I would get a 5speed with it... Or just keep what I got.. either way the time and money is the same.. How much power would the R-33 5speed take? What would you do, I understand the extra steps in the RB swaps and have planned for them all along, just thought I would build the stock setup to decent power but yet what I think is decent is a bit excessive without more upgrades. Thanks all! Back to media blasting the engine bay

EZ-E I was planning to go with a centerforce 2 clutch when (or now if) I pick up a 5spd. Bernardd is making me want to keep my auto, 12.07 in the 1/4 with an auto and stock diff? Ok Anything else I should know Bernardd? The whole reasning behing this upgrade is my fear of breaking the drivetrain before I get to have some fun, hell -- if a rebuild isnt to bad and my stock diff can take the power then I might just keep the stock setup.

Hey all, back in action on my project zxt build and still working on getting a 'mild setup' to achieve 350hp, basically the engine is there but im still stuck with the automatic transmission and factory diff, whatever it may be. I have a 1983 280zxt automatic and need a transmissions and differential package that could do at least 300hp if not 350, not for racing but needs to handle launches every now and then. I've looked at the KA and Z32 upgrades and their a bit excessive as I wont surpass this power with this engine/driveline so.. something a bit less intensive. I was planning on a r200 lsd from an 87 300zxt but am stuck still trying to figure out the best transmission for this hp range. Any suggestions for a 300-350hp driveline that doesnt require extensive modifications (woud not be worth the investment) would be great! Thanks!

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114153 Im scrapping everything I did for my zxt and switching to something more like the above. With the ports facing up id try to put the turbo outlet out the front and across then use the drivers side port to the intake.

I went with the painless PRF-50002 12-Circuit Pro Street Harness I thought 12 circuits would cover everything in a zxt. "hey seem to be made for American cars with their plugs etc" These use GM style plugs, if you re-wire everything (like me) I guess it isnt to bad, I do like the GM weatherpacks that come with their o2 and temp sensors. 12-circuit kit includes: Start ignition electric water pump radio electric fan electric fuel pump brake lights headlights taillight wipers turn signals emergency flashers horn coil charging mounting bracket, fuses, wire ties, grommets, terminals headlight plugs Some wouldnt be used with stock setups, I'll be using all of these and then some.

Well I purchased a few weatherpack connectors from rs-autosports and looking at it the main thing that currently cant be disconnected (at the firewall) are the injectors, I was looking at using the 3 pin for my injectors, 1 for 12v then the other 2 for the injector sets. My main concern is dropping 3 of the injector wires into 1 of the weatherpacks wires, I havent looked at the sizes yet but any thought would be appricated. Just figured id have to drop 6 of the 12v's into one, hmm...

Ok all, I've finally gotten back around to working on my project zxt, while most of my stuff is already fitted and ready to go I am in the processes of cleaning out the engine bay and removing most of the stock 280zxt items as they no longer surfice to my needs. I currently am trying to replace the following lines: A) Oil cooler: 18mm to 10AN adapter -> 10AN hose w/ 3/8 hose end for the after market cooler Trans mission cooler, I need to find out the sizes for the transmission, guessing (havent looked) its a 10x1.5, would a banjo fitting be good or a 90 degree AN fitting with the metric adapter? C) Power stearing lines, from the couplers to the pump, nothing else, just need the right size (looks like the 18mm). Any suggestions on a-c would be great, looking for sizes and recomendations, goal is not to cut/weld anything but use adapters. I'd also like input on the best way to convert these sizes, the oil/trans cooler uses 3/8NPT fittings so all hose can be 3/8" but that has to fit into the 18mm and 10?mm mounts some how. Once I get a solid parts list ill post the total thing with prices, guessing its going to be around $200 for the lines and fittings, add $180 for the dual cooler.

Hey all how about the transmission cooler? I'm getting one of those `dual coolers` that can cool both tranny/engine fluids in 1 unit, just wondering if anyone knows the size fittings id be needing. Also the cooler is 3/8NPT so I dont really need AN hoses, any thoughts on taking the 18mm to 3/8? Rather do that then 18mm -> 10AN -> 3/8NPT. Thanks!

Hey unless I am mistaking there are no journals here, just thought it would be a nifty idea http://www.vbulletin.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96462&highlight=journal

Ya I was grinding the other ones, cutting as much as I could with a chop saw then using a cut off blade on the die gringer to cut the rest.. With my new air die grinder I have much smaller wheels and it looks like it should cut much nicer, just waiting on a new compressor (took the 2hp 4gal back for a 6hp 27gal that I'll pickup soon). The bandsaw seems to do a very clean job and has a much tigher turning radius, even with 3" cutting blades on my air die grinder, grinding just seems to heat the metal up and not always yeild nice level clean cuts as the bandsaw seems to, I just like to blaze threw it so thats probably half the reason for poorer results. The end result is the same, brackets look like brackets, just trying to make it easier to cut 10 of em

We'll I picked up a Delta Shopmaster 9" bandsaw and some metal blades, sadly they wont cut 1/8" steel plate so right now its no good for bracket making but will come in handy for body work stuff.. Once I find a blade that will cut atleast 1/8" steel I can make new brackets and re-do this, I think the saws to small to really do this so it might get replaced with a bigger unit.

Thanks alot blue! Waited all weekend (inlaws house, pure boredom) to check and see if anyone else responded. Your comments are great blue, very helpfull. Plan right now is to buy a bandsaw to cut the brackets a little nicer (easier and cleaner) then get some new pipe and have it bent at some local shop (hopefully the bending tools the mufler shops use can bend this 3/4" stuff).. This way everything will be perfect. The original idea was to take what I have as a mockup and have it done at a shop but after touring the local shops that do this stuff I figured all their going to do is bandsaw cut new brackets and bend the pipe in a better fassion, something I can easily do at home. Ill post images of the 'new concept' based on your guyses input, 80% sounds great to me but that extra 20% is vital.

I wanted to connect both to the strut plate with rod ends but ended up just welding it solid, wouldnt be hard at all to move them to the strut tower plate. I gotta come up with a better way to build these brackets then I'll give it another go.

I think the final product I will move them in about 1.25-1.5" closer to the middle, where they are now I liked because of the bends in the strut bar, wanted to be close to those plus its fairly well 'triangulated'. I am unable to flex any area of the bar with manual force, the way its bolted to the car (super stiff) in my eyes pulls it together so it has some tension on it already (good or bad?). Dunno whats the best way, I've never done any of this before

Bah I just got the sucker today, couldnt find a palnet, where are they? Picture too please. I thought the jsk ones were better?

Here we go Cleaned up a little and painted with some high temp spray paint. Also got my jsk fuel rail and 460cc rx7 injectors Sucks I didnt get a o-ring rail, can I find an adapter anywhere? Id like the rail to sit a little closer.